johny Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Yes it was a bit fiddly and I had to release the engine mounts to jack the engine up which as you can imagine would have been easier with a hoist from above. Obviously working on your back isnt ideal and also maintaining the cleanliness of everything is a problem but its doable. Id done the BE years ago at about 40k miles from new during the resto and then heard a slight rumbling when revving the engine at stationary after approx another 30k. I wouldnt have noticed the noise if I hadnt had the car such a long time and know it so well. All the mains are accessible but the hardest is the front which is covered by the bridge piece that is also bolted to the front plate. I had to carefully separate the bridge piece from the front plate without damaging the gasket then put it back in place with sealant. The BE unsurprisingly still had life in them but the mains were just going through to the copper (this is one of the advantages of a multi metal type of bearing) and had been caught just at the right time. However as I say all were replaced with the cheaper single metal bearings which have their own advantages apart from cost. I also changed the thrust bearings and splashed out on the bigger capacity oil pump for good measure🤑 The only thing I regret is not having replaced the bridge piece at the same time as its threaded holes have since needed further work... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Aidan, If you want to do more home investigation measure your crankshaft mains and BE diameters. The issue of whether you change any shells may be answered! Take a couple of readings top/bottom and side to side. At least you will know what size shells you need. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 1 hour ago, Iain T said: Aidan, If you want to do more home investigation measure your crankshaft mains and BE diameters. The issue of whether you change any shells may be answered! Take a couple of readings top/bottom and side to side. At least you will know what size shells you need. Iain Thanks Iain I will have a go today - I've seen they come as standard and then +10 etc IS this 10 thou of an inch? And what is the standard.to start with?? Thx Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 with all the work you are doing have you not got a proper T2000 WSM ??? 2.0005 to 2.0010" mains 1.875 to 1.8755" big ends then later engines mains 2.3120 to 2.3115" ( needs engine numbers to refine that ) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 18 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: Core plugs - might as well since you've stripped the block and can tilt / shake it about to dislodge any debris in the waterways; just stick a screwdriver through them and twist out. You'll be amazed at what builds up in behind them. Replace like for like; yours will be bucket type rather than domed Screwdriver in twist.. no chance, twist with screwdriver with spanner... bigger hole!!! I'm guessing these are originals and have never been replaced, or someone had put them in with loctite! Any other thoughts for removal???? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 not twist, more lever them out (rocking side to side or up and down) using the biggest screwdriver you can get in place... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 once you have a hole you need to lever the plug out so its a big screwdriver or a ply bar of sorts so you lever against the block and the plug pops out they are normally fitted dry , and loctite with a good pry will break its seal that depends on what type was used , 573/574 might take a bit of shifting but dougt anything has been used Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Pete, you beat me to it. I was on my daily trot around the island, I like this weather around freezing but no wind. Pity the sun's not out or it would be perfick! Aidan, as with most instruments there is a technique it taking measurements. If there is a small knob on the micrometer that clicks when you tighten on whatever you are measuring use it as this maintains an even pressure on the jaws. If you tighten too much you can get a wrong reading. If not do not over tighten just 'kiss' the part with very little torque. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Ha My dog walker neighbour said its too cold for an old fart to go out so i ordered her a battery from euroCP instead code end2020 gets 40% off. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Is there any time when ECP doesn't have some sort of sale or discount code? ....... Actually, yes, the time when I need something quickly and can actually find it on their web-site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 I went for a walk this morning - first for well over a week - Sun was a shining and the frost was on the floor! But got a few shots of some seagulls on the frozen lake and a couple more of some Crows. I've not taken core plugs out on my engine - but the technique is not difficult based on what I've seen before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Re core plugs i attacked close to the edge with and old screwdriver . Once through the core plug was distorted which assists with levering the plug out . If stubborn continue around close to the edge next to the first hole opening up like a tin opener . Eventually the core plug will come out Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Thanks Paul that's helpful I started in the middle! Will do better next time!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Start in the middle - a good hammering with a large screwdriver will push the centre inwards so the edges compress. Don't be too harsh on the sides; you don't want to damage the block so that new plugs won't seal. Get the screwdriver through them then lever out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 I think the trick is to punch the screw driver through the centre of the plug, and then locate the end of the driver against the outer edge of the plug where it turns through 90 degrees inside the block as this is the strongest point on the plug. Then lever against the block on the opposite side of the plug to where the end of the screwdriver is located This should cause the plug to buckle and then pivot out. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Yay I've removed 4 larger and 2 smaller plugs - needed a bit more of a pursuader That's all, but looking at the manual I seem to be missing 2 one of each size. Are there 2 in the back of the block? I wasn't sure if they were plugs or not.. Anyone have a pic? Manual isn't clear Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 1 hour ago, AidanT said: Thanks Paul that's helpful I started in the middle! Will do better next time!!! This was a stubborn one Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 there is a welch plug for the camshaft bore others Two in the back of the head sorry parts list pictures dont jog the memory !! lets say if you cant see one ...........its not there Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Ha novice error I've pulled the Welch one.. oops but never mind! Are these the other 2 in the picture below - one large and one small?? Btw the four on the inlet/exhaust side don't have a ridge, is that usual? Ano question what's the best stuff to remove the old gasket material? Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 well youve got this far, so they all come out , why not ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 29 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: well youve got this far, so they all come out , why not ?? Pete Is they them Pete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 3 hours ago, AidanT said: Are these the other 2 in the picture below - one large and one small?? Yes, those are core plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 in general all core/water jacket access plugs are tin core plugs either bucket [ or welch ) plug oilways are a threaded screwed in plug often with a hex socket cap head you found the big welch plug for the cam bore Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted January 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 On 31/12/2020 at 09:22, Iain T said: Aidan, If you want to do more home investigation measure your crankshaft mains and BE diameters. The issue of whether you change any shells may be answered! Take a couple of readings top/bottom and side to side. At least you will know what size shells you need. Iain Happy New year to you all !! I've taken some measurements but must be doing it wrong Iain I measured the diameter of the crank at the four bearing positions but results are odd compared to the range given by Pete above I took four readings for each Are you also saying I should be measuring the width?? Maybe I need to watch a utube on it Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 Diameter of the bearing surface is what to measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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