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Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!


AidanT
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I have a big pile of cam and crank sprockets, the simplex ones are significantly more worn than the duplex ones.

i have also stripped off some very floppy and stretched simplex chains.

look very closely at the teeth on the sprockets in your engine, check them against what a new one looks like.

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46 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

I have a big pile of cam and crank sprockets, the simplex ones are significantly more worn than the duplex ones.

i have also stripped off some very floppy and stretched simplex chains.

look very closely at the teeth on the sprockets in your engine, check them against what a new one looks like.

Can you add some pics?  Would be interesting to see

 

 

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I would do the chain test and decide on that basis whether to replace it. Then of course its well known (certainly in bicycle/motorcycle circles) that its not worth replacing the chain without doing everything as a new chain will wear very rapidly to suit worn sprockets....

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1 hour ago, AidanT said:

note back plate and flywheel already removed

Ah, well, that was your first mistake.

As Johny says, without the flywheel to lock it with, your best bet is sump off and wedge a bit of wood between the counterweight and the block. Easiest with the engine upside-down so the wood won't fall out.

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As an alternative suggestion, a strip of 20mm by 3mm steel bar about 20cm long with three holes drilled in the right places, then bolt it to the bottom two flywheel fixing holes in the crank and one of the right hand backplate fixings. You'll need a kink in the bar to line up the offset, and tighten the bolts reasonably tight. The orientation means the bar is under tension when undoing the front pulley bolt/nut.

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I always used to use the block of wood.  Pick a beefy looking part of the block to wedge it in, and use the longest extension bar you can - or you could even risk a bit of scaffolding pole over the end of a big one, but take care - bursting sockets are not unknown.  An air impact driver is the best option but I'm going to guess you don't have one.  If you do, be doubly certain that you are using it with an impact socket.  A burst socket on one of these does much more damage.

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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Ha !!    put a 1/2 drive battery impact wrench on your christmas wish list 

mine does upto 330 lbft  when charged  and the front bolt is not super tight 

 

The problem there is when the nut remains stubbornly stuck, the wrench rotates and your arms end up looking like corkscrews. (Ok it was an electric drill that suddenly jammed but the experience was the same)

cartoon-white-guy-with-a-twisted-arm-by-toonaday-57630.jpg.7c9a057c82cc629f8839d8c762ddeb07.jpg

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5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

The problem there is when the nut remains stubbornly stuck, the wrench rotates and your arms end up looking like corkscrews. (Ok it was an electric drill that suddenly jammed but the experience was the same)

cartoon-white-guy-with-a-twisted-arm-by-toonaday-57630.jpg.7c9a057c82cc629f8839d8c762ddeb07.jpg

In my experience, the combination of impact wrench and seized fastener is usually a broken fastener!

Nigel

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So

OIL PUMP

Firstly, there's no mesh or filter inside the uptake tube. Is it necessary??

Second see the pic... does this look right with the edges taken off on the outer? 

The gap seems fine @ .0035 between the inner and outer 

Let me know  😀

 

 

20201221_175421.jpg

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14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

think i mentioned much earlier i have never seen that design of pump pick up as you engine has 

its from else where or some modification but the rectangular pick up is to me very unusual

I thought the same when I first saw it but have since noticed that the Mk3 GT6 parts catalogue shows one like it, marked "up to KE775E and KF2527E"

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  • AidanT changed the title to Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!

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