Gauges

[PatK]

12 minutes ago, NonMember said:

If it's an original type gauge (later model with voltage stabiliser) then it's a bi-metal strip with a heating coil. It's not polarity sensitive and it'll cope with 12V across it no problem. If it's the earlier (no stabiliser) type then it may be polarity-sensitive but is designed for 12V so again, no problem.

Thanks I will give that a try.   Pat

[Pete Lewis]

7 minutes ago, PatK said:

I'm looking for a white square

well it shows up on my laptop  and looking at the price on the one colin loaded its best left for next christmas 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

23 minutes ago, PatK said:

Thanks Colin, I will give that a go.  I was very impressed with your details of how you are attempting to cure the tub sag in your Herald convertible. I have exactly the same problem with my vitesse and I have just bought two 5"wide very heavy ratchet straps, and wii have a go in the New Year. Like yours it is the offside that is worse, but if mine keeps springing back like yours, then I will grind the paint off at the bottom and apply heat as the first measure. Thanks Colin.  Pat

Still ongoing! You need heavy ratchets and be careful where you attach them; I had to jam substantial lengths of wood behind the wings and down into the bottom of the footwell behind the b-posts, which I secured in place with a large self tapper and penny washer through the seat-belt mounting hole. It's too easy to bend metal or pull out the spot-welds if you do it incorrectly so what you brace it behind is very important. As the b-posts pull in you can see the floors drop, the tunnel seatbelt mounting moves down in relation to the chassis mounting, but springs up again once pressure is released. I have a professional bodyworker not far from me who was to call over and advise but Covid is delaying nearly everything in my garage at present. 

[PatK]

28 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Still ongoing! You need heavy ratchets and be careful where you attach them; I had to jam substantial lengths of wood behind the wings and down into the bottom of the footwell behind the b-posts, which I secured in place with a large self tapper and penny washer through the seat-belt mounting hole. It's too easy to bend metal or pull out the spot-welds if you do it incorrectly so what you brace it behind is very important. As the b-posts pull in you can see the floors drop, the tunnel seatbelt mounting moves down in relation to the chassis mounting, but springs up again once pressure is released. I have a professional bodyworker not far from me who was to call over and advise but Covid is delaying nearly everything in my garage at present. 

Thanks Colin, I'm sure we are all waiting with bated breath to see the results and hear how it was done.  Good luck and keep us all informed.  Thanks.   Pat

[PeteH]

As an Aid. Try looking at:- https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/6697-rear-tub-spread-dimension/?tab=comments#comment-86501

This was back in the year when I was trying to get the gaps right. They are much nearer now but as yet not where I need them.

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

Thanks Pete; handy to know the measurements but it's like my trouser belt - I can draw it in considerably, but on release... everything jumps back out again. I need to keep it there.

[PeteH]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Thanks Pete; handy to know the measurements but it's like my trouser belt - I can draw it in considerably, but on release... everything jumps back out again. I need to keep it there.

You have to overpull, the "belt" very carefully. I had several "tries" before I got anywhere near. When I get outside again. I will re-check the dimensions to see if it has moved again?.

Pete

[Pete Lewis]

had to pull in around 2" to gain 5/8" on spring back with the timber and stud puller 

much creaking and cracking , and watch the deck panel start to buckle 

Pete

[PeteH]

It`s true what Pete Says. 🙏

I`ll tell you is VERY nerve wracking. You keep wondering just when something will "give".

Pete

[ahebron]

If it does give it might it be at the panel join on the rear deck just in front of the C pillar on a saloon. Thats where mine went

 

Adrian

[Pete Lewis]

just to add with tub spread you can also see  the gap around the sides of the boot lid close up or even foul up .

just to my original odds and sods spread reviver 

 

[Paul H]

15 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

just to add with tub spread you can also see  the gap around the sides of the boot lid close up or even foul up .

just to my original odds and sods spread reviver 

 

Hi Pete . I thought if you reduce the distance between the B posts the boot gaps would increase ? 
Paul 

[Pete Lewis]

yes    sorry if unclear like yours i was talking post recovery , 

if you have tub spread you can also have a tight boot lid fit 

as B posts  spread outward  it moves the rear wings inwards   is that better 
pete

 

[Colin Lindsay]

Thankfully the Estate has no rear deck; I'm just hoping that after all my work the rear hatch still fits...