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Vitesse 2L Mk1 misfire on cold start, now blown head gasket.


68vitesse

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I have a block presently at the cleaners.   It was very clagged up inside the water jacket, and suffering from the "Black Gunge" when I stripped it.   Previously, I've picked out the worst rust from the jacket with screwdrivers etc, and just used engine cleaner on the crank chamber surfaces.    Picking it up tomorrow, let you know if I think it was worth it!

John

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35 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

its been loose  ,   well lost its clamplng    

what are the washers like all a bit dished ???

 

pete

Not sure I'd say washers are dished but certainly marked on the top surface, can feel a ridge with a finger nail, nuts seem to be unmarked. Remember doing major work on this engind over twenty years ago, valves bearings etc.

While driving home after the head gasket blew, oil guage showing usual pressure, but had knock from engine underload and wondered if number 5 was causing 6 to fire prematurely. Checked the valves with paraffin in the combustion chambers, no leak to speak off in to the ports, or is paraffin to viscous?.

Regards

Paul.

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you could just pop the valves and give a quiet grind to re seat aged wear and tear 

i would clean  the head and block (studs out) with some oily wet and dry to get all back to shiny metal   and remove all residues oil in the bores to catch any waste and rag in the tappet chest  etc

easy to pop a valve  place head on bench fit decent socket to sit on the valve head

with an socke thats fits easy over the collets and giv it a good whack  the collect jump out

you need a valve spring compressor to refit them though

put valve in drill ( bench clamped) and use old chisel or tile cutter to spin the crap off the stem and back of the valve head   (use googles)

Pete

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

i would not use washers and flanged nuts   especially as its washers that collapse

I had to rush out and check just now but I've used washers and flanged nuts on both Heralds; reason being that the flanged nuts will spin against the head as they're tightened and I'd rather have the 'cushion' to prevent wear or damage as they're tightened down.

The original nuts press on the centre of the washer which is why the edges dish up, but this can't happen with the flanged versions so the load should be evenly spread. Maybe it's just my usual 'belt and braces' approach but they're both torqued up now so not coming off again!

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