Rear trunnion bush kit

[Roger K]

These are not great - I don't remember this hassle when changing these 30 years ago!  I've bought the Rimmers offering, 'made in the UK' by Powertune.  First off, the rubber rings.  Back in the day these pretty much fitted around the edge of the nylon top hat, like they're supposed to.  These are about 3/4 size: the only way I stand a fighting chance of getting them on is to hold them, stretched, for as long as I can, preferably without breaking them.  Having managed that, I now have to get the vertical link on.  Currently - no chance.  With the outer steel cup on and everything as compressed as I can get it, the overall width is 2.2".  The gap between the vertical link uprights is pretty much 2".  Even with a G clamp trying to compress things, it's nowhere near.  I guess I could use a small screw jack arrangement to spread the vertical link, not sure that's a good idea?

Any tips?  Different manufacturer, perhaps?

[Colin Lindsay]

Try to obtain NOS original versions, they come up for sale from time to time. As with the front hub oil seal, the repros have grown in size to a point where some won't fit without major compression, or juggling of all the components to keep them assembled as you slide them into place. If you still have the old ones, you can use the rubber O-rings off those if they're fit for reuse, and they're often a better fit.

[Roger K]

Thanks Colin.  I have actually managed to get one side to fit - a lot of work.  There seem to be two problems with the modern kits:  

1 - the inner tin washer cup lip is too deep.  I tried a mockup without the rubber ring, but the lip on the inner 'cup' was too deep and stopped the outer 'cup' from seating properly.  I filed the lip so that it was approx the same depth as the nylon top-hat head, which brought it into tolerance.  This produced problem 2!

2 - the square-section rubber ring is too wide to allow compression of the metal cups, producing the same problem as above.  I fitted the rubber ring tightly over a metal cylinder (actually an oil seal drift) and cut it carefully with a no.12 scalpel blade along its length, reducing it in width to just enough oversize to need slight compression.

The two above did the trick.  What a faff.

Next question:  which way should I fit the bolt that goes through this lot and the vertical link?  I thought about having the bolt head at the end with the radius arm bracket, but not sure the bolt head will go past the bracket.  Anybody know?

Roger

ps - the old parts from the trunnions are completely u/s, although there's enough left to show that the new parts are stupidly oversized.  Or the old ones are very badly worn......

[PeteH]

The Haynes Manual, (GT6/Vittese) shows all the nuts to the rear of the vehicle, in both drawings and photo`s. If that helps?.

When I "Did" the Herald, I did what you threatened and actually braced the link in the manner you suggested, using a bolt and a short piece of tubing.

Pete

[Roger K]

Thanks Pete - not at all sure there's room to get a bolt head past the inboard leg of the radius arm bracket, but as I'm using an original vertical link and the original bolt, I guess it must fit somehow...

[Roger K]

Just a brief update - I managed to get an incomplete QH kit on ebay so could compare the parts with Rimmer's and Canley's modern repros.  Here is a photo of the inner washer, that fits behind the top hat to face outwards and hold the rubber ring.  You may draw your own conclusions....

[Colin Lindsay]

Yikes! That speaks for itself, but is sadly typical of the 'aye sure it'll do' attitude many adopt these days.