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Vitesse 1600 cam change


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Has anyone done this with the engine in the car? I know the head, lifters, distributor radiator etc will need to come out, how is the oil pump drive held in place once the distributor drive gear comes out?I am concerned about damaging the bearings as I slide another one in due to its length. Any thoughts on a good daily use road cam or should I just stick to a standard 1600 one?

Also can you get the sump off without pulling the engine out?

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I am not sure you will have enough room between the front of engine and bonnet? Guess it is easier o take the bonnet off though.

As to dizzy drive, it just pulls out once the dizzy is out.


As tp cam choice, mk2 vitesse? doubt you will gain a massive amount of power though. And worth checking the CR on the head, an increase my be beneficial, especially with a warmer cam


Sump? I really cannot remember, but a 4 cylinder is enough of a pain in the car. If you are taking the sump off as well I would suggest pulling the engine right out.

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Why remove the sump ?


The sump will come off in car , its a bit of a faf getting the height and engine angle right and rack will be in the way, if it has a gauze I would once the sumps dropped get a spanner in the gap and remove the pump bolts it drops in the sump

refit is to remove the spash gauze


what carbs are fitted , if solex swap a mk 1 2ltr manifold and add two strombergs for around 12 bhp more


Agree with clive about cam choice


A well set 1600 will give a 2 ltr agood run for its money


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Thanks Guys. I'm thinking if the radiator is out I could possibly remove the grill and get the cam out through there or just unbolt the bonnet. I was going to pull the sump and strip the oil pump whilst I have it in bits.

The carbs are twin strombergs that were overhauled around 6000 miles ago so they should be good. I know the can is bad as the previous owner had to get the fuel pump modified to deliver fuel at high rpm due to lobe wear!! What CR should I aim for, it is an HC engine but will I need to skim the head ( I have a spare that I'm getting unleaded seats put in and flowed.

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at he moment a std manifold onto a stainless std system, can you get a tubular manifold for a 1600? I don't wantr to spoil the driveability of the car though and make it too lumpy, I did that with a Dolomite and it was great on the track but in traffic.....no fun art all!

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I believe (but check) the vitesse 2litre (mk1) manifold is the same as yours, and there is a 6>3>1 available? that shouldn't affect driveability though. And the mk2 vitesse cam is a great all rounder. 


And yes, I know what you mean about fitting hot cams and making the car worse........(T shirt now in back of wardrobe, bit threadbare but lesson now learnt)

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We had a pheonix 631 on the Vit6 mk1 2ltr is same head configuration

had 2 " pipework and single club Bell semisports for herald/ 1600

Has the best sound ever , dont go wheel barrow route, soinds like a hairdrier

the 1600 on song is incredible.

the only tight fit is the steering column , can be a bit too close

sealing the 3-1 was always a nighmare till we cut a slot and added two lugs to clamp the collector to the

headers never needed any wrap , just a 7 of 8 bladed engine fan

she would idle for hours , never any overheat


tubular manifolds are rather pingy where as the cast absorbs the noises


you will need to re route the water pump bypass /heater tube, it wont fit



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