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Well, that's never happened to me before...


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2 hours ago, 68vitesse said:

 

 

IMG_20210124_112700.jpg

Aaaaargh - the dreaded blue bag!  Having just restored a '67 Series IIA Station Wagon, I have learnt to avoid blue bags if at all possible.  Somehow Britpart got the licence to call their products 'OEM', but the quality can be atrocious.  Bearmach are better, Allmakes better still.  The beauty of old Landies is that there are a number of parts specialists for the older ones that have prodigious stock of NOS parts, still in their sixties wrappings.  Possibly not for Freelanders, however.

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8 hours ago, PeteH said:

Land Rover Freelander 1 - Wheel Studs Front Or Rear Hub - CLP9037L (5)Wheel Stud - CLP9037 - Genuine MG Rover

 

Images from Google adverts. IMV there is a distinct difference.? But all purport to be to CLP9037L?.

Pete

The one on the right is a proper OEM Landrover one complete with locking adhesive. No idea why they call the long shank ones by the same number. Should be FAM4819.

Nick

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36 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

The one on the right is a proper OEM Landrover one complete with locking adhesive. No idea why they call the long shank ones by the same number. Should be FAM4819.

Nick

Yes, it looks like the Britpart item is incorrectly numbered.  Plus ça change....

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10 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

The one on the right is a proper OEM Landrover one complete with locking adhesive. No idea why they call the long shank ones by the same number. Should be FAM4819.

Nick

Hi

The point being it would be easy for someone to purchase the wrong item, if you where taking the supplier on trust?.

Pete

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3 hours ago, PeteH said:

Hi

The point being it would be easy for someone to purchase the wrong item, if you where taking the supplier on trust?.

Pete

The Britparts studs I bought came from a firm who bill themselves as the leading independent supplier of Land Rover parts in the region.

All comes down to buyer beware.

Regards

Paul

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6 hours ago, PeteH said:

The point being it would be easy for someone to purchase the wrong item, if you where taking the supplier on trust?.

 

Absolutely. Won’t work on a Triumph with steel wheels (or some alloys) and won’t even work on Freelanders with steels wheels.

Dont know how the waters hot muddied but it’s been happening for a while. I used to buy a fair number of these studs when I was doing the CV conversions. Initially from my local LR dealer who were unexpectedly good value, but then LR made them NLA so I had to go online. Soon learned to look at the pictures very carefully!  Certainly didn’t need any more long shanked studs as that is exactly what the hubs I was using came with.... so I have a big bucket of those to this day.

Nick

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, this time I can't say it's never happened to me before....

Just finished the rear suspension having replaced the stud that fractured.  Torqued everything up very carefully to dead on 38ftlbs, let the jack right down and started on the front suspension bushes.  10 minutes later there's a loud bang - and there's another wheel stud lying on the floor with a nut on the end of it.  Same new Bastuck hub as before, different stud.

I will now be changing all the studs in both rear hubs (except the one I've already done) for new.  The ones Rimmers sell loose are not the same as the ones pre-mounted in the Bastuck rear hubs, so I'm going to trust them - for now, as I have a bag of them.  I did test one on an old hub and rim up to 65ftlbs with no trouble.  I had thought the original failure was a one-off but clearly it isn't.  This latest break has the same odd crystalline appearance at the fracture surface.

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1 hour ago, Roger K said:

This latest break has the same odd crystalline appearance at the fracture surface.

Wonder if it is worth having them examined by a laboratory?. On the face of it, there might be an issue with a batch over Heat treatment?. If they are Rimmers?. A word with them might be on the cards, in their shoes I would not want to be associated with even the outside possibility of a fatal incident.

Pete

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The ones that have failed have both been part of a rear hub assembly sold complete.  The hub itself has Bastuck stamped on it, which I presume is the maker.  No markings on the studs.  After the first one broke, I bought a couple of spares (again from Rimmers - I'm obviously very trusting), which are slightly different and obviously not of the same manufacture.

The hub assembly and the studs are finished in black, possibly anodized?

Haven't been back to Rimmers yet but will phone in the morning.  I'm guessing they'll want the whole hub back, which would be a right pain as it's all assembled on the car and I don't really want to do the whole job again.  I'll see what they say.

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Not sure what the black finish is, but it's not BZP obviously.  The separate studs I bought are also finished in black.  Looks like anodizing but not sure if you can anodize steel, as I've only seen it on ally...

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5 hours ago, Roger K said:

Well, this time I can't say it's never happened to me before....

Just finished the rear suspension having replaced the stud that fractured.  Torqued everything up very carefully to dead on 38ftlbs, let the jack right down and started on the front suspension bushes.  10 minutes later there's a loud bang - and there's another wheel stud lying on the floor with a nut on the end of it.  Same new Bastuck hub as before, different stud.

I will now be changing all the studs in both rear hubs (except the one I've already done) for new.  The ones Rimmers sell loose are not the same as the ones pre-mounted in the Bastuck rear hubs, so I'm going to trust them - for now, as I have a bag of them.  I did test one on an old hub and rim up to 65ftlbs with no trouble.  I had thought the original failure was a one-off but clearly it isn't.  This latest break has the same odd crystalline appearance at the fracture surface.

You’re right to swap them all. Clearly defective. I recall commenting on the strange crystalline fracture surface before. Studs need to go back to the supplier with a strongly worded note. This is dangerous!

Nick

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I would expect them to pay for your time and some new (safe) studs Roger or tell them you will be going to trading standards who would only want the broken studs, as it's nut the hub that is causing it. It makes you wonder if someone has already lost a wheel and put it down to forgetting to tighten the nuts properly......

Tony.

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Both studs that failed are on the same hub, so I think it's most likely a batch fault.  I can change them all just by removing the drum, but both have broken in exactly the same way at the same place, the stressed point at the base of the thread.  No warning, no going 'soft' during tightening, just a sudden bang and the nut with the thread inside flies across the workshop.  The first failed during tightening at 36ftlbs, the second about 10 minutes after tightening to 38.  Neither had had a nut on them before.  The thought of what might happen if I had been driving it does not bear thinking about.

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