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Remote Brake Servo Spitfire 1500


Bob Owen

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Hi

Actually, back in the 80`s. I drove a "Poo Brown" Dolomite (1800?) belonging to my Son. Don`t remember the brakes being any worse than some others. My "transport" back then was the (then "new") FWD Escourt. His Dolly was nicked and trashed on the Pirbright ranges. Co-incidently the Brand new, still boxed, Inertia seat belts intended for that car, but never fitted, are going in the Herald!.

Pete

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On 03/02/2021 at 08:07, PeteH said:

I know we all try and "improve" our vehicles. I do however wonder where the line can be drawn?, over what is "too far"?. Probably more concerning would be "our" insurers attitude, to many of the more extreme modifications. Even if they are done in the principle of increasing safety?.

Food for Thought?.

Pete

Usually under that much misused word "upgrade".

Regards

Paul

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  • 3 months later...
On 01/02/2021 at 08:29, clive said:

Has anybody had any experience with the above kit on a 1500 spit?

I was about to by the kit from david manners which is around £90 but if the above will be just as good but nearly half the price then its a no brainer.

My only concern is the registered address for that seller is china so any issues with it then it may be a bit of hassle trying to get it sorted.

Also does that particular one come with instructions? 

 

Thanks

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40 minutes ago, chrisbladen said:

Has anybody had any experience with the above kit on a 1500 spit?

I was about to by the kit from david manners which is around £90 but if the above will be just as good but nearly half the price then its a no brainer.

My only concern is the registered address for that seller is china so any issues with it then it may be a bit of hassle trying to get it sorted.

Also does that particular one come with instructions? 

 

Thanks

If it is a powertune one, then it is teh exact same one sold by most companies out there. I got mine from MGB Hive, they were the cheapest at the time. 

And I can reassure you they work perfectly. Had it on my Toledo for several years.

Not sure what instructions you are after. The servo is generic, so nothing about where to put it on the car. I think it mentioned mounting at an angle, the in and out, plus how to connect the hose/one way valve.

 

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  +1 for clives post   it is used as a one size fits all but clues on how/where  are just not in the kit 

    its look at as many installations you can find and copy how you wish it to fit 

    the  mounting  bracket controls the inclination of the unit 

    

Pete

 

 

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Mine came from China, the standard Lockheed type. Unfortunately It was poorly assembled, didn’t work. I had to strip it down, clear out airways clogged with grease and put on an external one way vacuum valve. OK after that. The additional bracket ensures the correct elevation and make sure you put in a LONG vacuum pipe which hangs low and gives a sump for fluid in the vacuum pipe. You don’t want fluid in the vacuum chamber!

Doug

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So my powertune servo came today without any instructions as i suspected, i should be able to find some online so i can ensure i am installing it at the correct angles etc. It came with a little black plastic nipple which im assuming is for the vaccum pipe? Does this need some sort of adapter to connnect to the manifold? Iv seen something online which is a 5/18 UNF thread, i take it il need one of these and also a non return valve for on the vaccum pipe? If anyone could send a few pictures of how you have done yours if any1s done one on a spitfire, then that would be a massive help

 

Thanks

16208335306243921017800700883162.jpg

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Reckon that goes into the servo diaphragm tank so you just remove the bung, which is used to keep the interior clean and dry, and push it in. As you say the vac pipe coming from the manifold then connects on to it. As for the angle I thought the mounting bracket the kit comes with ensures its correct, well as long as its fitted to a horizontal surface of course...

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7 minutes ago, johny said:

Reckon that goes into the servo diaphragm tank so you just remove the bung, which is used to keep the interior clean and dry, and push it in. As you say the vac pipe coming from the manifold then connects on to it. As for the angle I thought the mounting bracket the kit comes with ensures its correct, well as long as its fitted to a horizontal surface of course...

Theres no bung on the servo tank mate it already has a connection for the vaccum pipe on the tank

20210512_170811.jpg

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Heres two on ebay, the first with a built in non return valve (recommendable as the plastic one with the servo can be unreliable), but theyre expensive for what they are and compared with the servo cost!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223950754440?hash=item3424815288:g:m9UAAOSwrgFecrXk

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324107656285?hash=item4b76525c5d:g:acgAAOSw22ZecrG3

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Thanks johnny, They am very expensive like you say in comparison to the cost of the whole servo kit.

 

Pete, good idea with the air hose connector, they am usually a 1/4 thread arent they and the thread in the inlet manifold is 5/8 so i could get a reducer similar to this i suppose...

https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/bspp-male-60-cone-x-bspp-swivel-female-60-cone-adaptor/?gclid=CjwKCAjw-e2EBhAhEiwAJI5jgzat52uoPzu838LizcpzCRDdrM4l1Tgbc4-okBaYZx4Sp-Y7f0uhAxoCZ_gQAvD_BwE

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I have attached a copy of the instructions that I received with my servo.  I have also attached a photo of my engine bay which shows, although not very clearly, the servo mounted next to the clutch master cylinder.  The original brake pipe was just bent round to fit into the outlet of the servo and a short new pipe made up to connect the master cylinder to the servo.  I hope that these are of some use.

sevo install.JPG

brake_servo.pdf

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Thanks for the help and advice guys. Graham, have you found it works ok without an inline non return valve?

Also it says in the instuctions to create a U trap between the manifold and inline valve, i cant imagine this is going to be very easy with the limited space, is this absolutely necessary or is it just an additional fail safe?

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Iv found a few more links online if any one is having the same issues finding the fittings if it helps. Also alot cheaper than elsewhere

Manifold adaptor https://www.psautoparts.co.uk/product/min-bh-brake-hydraulics/manifold-adaptor-5-8-unf-rbau2164/RBAU2164

 

Inline non return https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QPXX7TL/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_glt_fabc_FCDZ74HCH31S4W7F0RVK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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The inline non return valve is there so if the engine stops you will still get a couple of servo assisted brake applications.

I don't have a u bent in my vacuum hose but did make sure some of it runs below the level of the servo connection to help prevent any fuel excetera getting into the servo.

Regards

Paul

 

 

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I have no extra non return valve in the system, only the one incorporated in the connector at the servo end.  Interestingly, this is a right angle connector , the same as the spare one that you received.  I know that the valve works as you can actuate the brake pedal a few times with the engine stopped and feel, and hear, the servo operating.

As you can see in the photo, the lowest point in the vacuum hose is where it rests on the rocker cover, after which it rises steeply to the servo.  This has to serve as the U tube fluid trap and has not caused any problems over the years it has been fitted.

After replacing the front brake callipers, it felt as though the system was not correctly bled. I thought that it was air in the servo unit so  removed it from the circuit.  Thanks to an item on the forum, I realised that it was because of the incorrect seal design.  I used a reversed sash clamp between the  brake pedal and the steering wheel to keep the system pressurised for a couple of days  to "stretch" the seals  and the system started to work satisfactorily.  I therefore re-configured the hydraulics to bring the servo back into operation and noticed a significant improvement in that with the servo, I no longer had to brace myself against the seat in order to generate enough pressure to obtain the required retardation.

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19 minutes ago, GrahamB said:

 

After replacing the front brake callipers, it felt as though the system was not correctly bled. I thought that it was air in the servo unit so  removed it from the circuit.  Thanks to an item on the forum, I realised that it was because of the incorrect seal design.

Do you mean there is an issue with the seals on the servo or elsewhere in the system? Only asking as i have also recently replaced my front calipers but i havent used it much on the road since to know if theres an issue. Just wandering if its worth me doing the few days pressuried as you did before i fit the servo?

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I had not noticed the reference to silicone fluid, I do not know why it is not recommended; I use normal DOT4.  May be just because they have not tested the system long term with silicone.

The problem with the seals refers to the front callipers, not the servo.  As always, Pete Lewis is the expert on the design of the calliper seals, the problems and the work arounds.

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yes I think we've agreed that as silicone shouldnt be used with ABS systems all brakes have been included in the same instruction.

And apparently its not the seal but the machining of the seal housing that has caused problems so if it occurs it will be with new repro calipers.

A few threads about both subjects on here... 

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