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GT6 camber adjustment


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Having swapped the chassis on my car and changing multiple suspension parts, wondering about front camber adjustment.  I know how to do it but wondering if it’s one I should leave to professionals with optical equipment?

I was planning to set it up using a simple set square arrangement on the hubs.

Many thanks for any advice.  
 

Rich

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Simple set square / plumb bob will work fine. Start off with the same number of shims at each of the 4 wishbone connection points (2 or 3). Let is settle for a bit (sounds like a fresh build), then re-check after a few miles. If you find the steering isn't centring properly when driving, then you can tweak the castor by removing or adding shims to either front or rear wishbone mountings.

Gully

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thank you.  Very timely as I am planning to do this job tomorrow 😉

Must admit though struggling to understand how adding or removing shims from the front or rear bracket changes the angle off vertical looking from the elevation in the diagram?  Surely this would only have the effect of turning in or out the suspension when looking from the front, if you know what I mean...??   

I did look in the workshop manual!

My last job on full restoration.  MOT booked Thursday - my Birthday. Yaaaay !  👍👍👍👍

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1 hour ago, rulloyd said:

Thank you.  Very timely as I am planning to do this job tomorrow 😉

Must admit though struggling to understand how adding or removing shims from the front or rear bracket changes the angle off vertical looking from the elevation in the diagram?  Surely this would only have the effect of turning in or out the suspension when looking from the front, if you know what I mean...??   

I did look in the workshop manual!

My last job on full restoration.  MOT booked Thursday - my Birthday. Yaaaay !  👍👍👍👍

If you remove a shim from the rear bracket, or add a shim to the front, it pushes the end of the lower wishbone backwards a little. resulting in less positive camber.

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errors in camber have little effect on normal handling or tyre wear

remember on public roads the car has no idea what camber is in the surface its running on 

Toe in excesses will remove rubber at a fast rate and has far more impact on handling and wear than any other geometry setting 

Pete

 

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55 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

errors in camber have little effect on normal handling or tyre wear

I think the references to camber were a typo - moving the trunnion forward or backward affects caster (which also may not have much effect on wear but does influence steering stability)

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yes Rob i did think that  and not many have turntables for KPI and caster measuring 

set square and plumb for camber  easy enough , i was always under the teaching of measure camber both sides 

take the sum and eliminate any floor drift and half the result  as camber is often differing side to side but the included angle ia what happens on the road 

Toe and axle parallelism is much easier as all you need is a tape measure and a Wickes   ha !

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The issue with the Triumph system is that adding/removing shims will effect the whole suspension geometry, so it's a real fiddle to adjust everything correctly.

Say you add a shim to the rear of the left suspension tower that's going to (if my brains working correctly to picture in 3 dimension) rotate the suspension around the lower trunnion in a clockwise direction while also pushing the rearout laterally relative to the front.  As a result you'll end up with increased toe in (which you can adjust back out with the track rod end), an increased camber angle, and an increased castor angle.

In a perfect world adding/removing shims in pairs should just change the camber angle...but the Triumph (or almost any other production car) suspension isn't perfect so that will also make smaller changes to castor and toe.

In short it's:

  1. Check.
  2. Adjust.
  3. Repeat over and over again until everything's as close to perfect as possible (or you get bored).
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