Etch, epoxy or just regular 2K primer...

[wimpus]

Been looking to spray my spitfire 1500 in 2K primer/filler so that it can be painted.

 

Now the bonnet and door where done at my work with 2K primer to.

Some parts are painted in green zink phosphate primer.

 

But the rest of the car needs to be done in grey primer.

 

My question is.

Etch or epoxy primer, is it really needed ? 

 

What is the best, as im using the car still daily and only have time on evenings and weekends 😅

 

Pic of Fox.

All thats green, blue/grey needs to be stripped and done in grey primer.

[Clive]

I have always used etch on bare steel, but only a thin coat required. Then 2K primer. 

My car (yellw) is REALLY tricky to paint, I used a white primer but when I had to replace I used grey. Same yellow, but looks different. Not sure if your grey is the same?

[wimpus]

19 minutes ago, clive said:

I have always used etch on bare steel, but only a thin coat required. Then 2K primer. 

My car (yellw) is REALLY tricky to paint, I used a white primer but when I had to replace I used grey. Same yellow, but looks different. Not sure if your grey is the same?

When mine was repainted we used dark grey primer to (what local bodyshop said to do and supplied).

So going to use the same.

Also whole car (remaining panels) will be stripped to bare metal and whole car repainted.

 

Every panel has something.

Must say the blue grey is very special to.. well what remains of it !

One side was in the sun and the other not.

 

One side was like babyblue and the other grey.

 

Back in 2012...

[Ian Faulds]

 my mazda mx5 mk1 california , yellow, and mazda state the primer has to be white or the yellow colour will not be correct. Again on my wife's modern juke (yellow) the manufacturers put so little paint on i swear i could see the primer reflection underneath and we had the car from new. Always thought that car needed another coat. Sold it on now.

[PeteH]

Hi

Got one for you all.

Mine (13/60 C-V) is in different colours due mainly to the fact that some of the panels have been replaced, so far so good. What I need is a primer that can be aplied safely in a domestic garage, and will tolerate being applied over different source paints/primers without causing potential issues later?. Does such an animal exist?. Even if I strip back to bare metal/body filler. There will I am sure be some bits that will never remove in the really awkward places. The final coat will likely be Celulose as the original would have been (I assume, it being 1967 build year), but the last thing I need would be paint issues down the line.

"full dip" stripping etc; is not a (financial) option.

Opinions please?.

Pete

[Clive]

Cellulose hasn't been used in car factories since the 50's? Certainly way befire our cars were built. It was some sort of acrylic paint that was used on the production line.

And cellulose has a big issue is that it is very aggressive, and is the paint most likely to cause a reaction with previous paints.

You can use an isolating paint (barcoat) but further layers do not seem to adhere as well, getting a higher than expected number of chips etc. (that may just be me?)

Best bet is to head over to the mig welding forum and see what the wise men say. I use 2k stuff, but do have a home-brew breathing kit (devilbiss diaphragm pump, ex MOD mask and an air hose used ONLY for that setup). There was some "safe" 2k paint about, not sure if that is still the case.

[Colin Lindsay]

I'm no expert on spraying but if I recall correctly Cellulose was always a more brittle or 'softer' paint; easier to apply to end up with a nicer gloss shine but more easily damaged; and therefore correspondingly easier to overcoat or respray a single panel for a good match. 

Interesting discussions about the primer; I know some paints I've used require a white / yellow / even black primer to end up at the proper topcoat colour.