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Posted

Dear all

Just read CCW and read an article 'Golf radiator slots in and provides better cooling' -  see attached

Has any one tried this out and if so,  what about the hoses and any other bits of advice please

Many thanks

Maria

CCW GT6 rad.png

Posted

Roy (in the article) is a TSSC and CT member, a regular on teh RBRR and 10CR events. I also know another friend running a golf rad in his GT6. Bother cars are very well used, so the conversion is well tested.

As to doing it, a trawl of the WWW should throw up how it is done. But the golf uses 32mm hoses (same as GT6 diameter, which is handy) and there are all sorts of shapes available. This sort of thing does not have a "right" answer, you need to be confident about making a few brackets and joining some hoses (Roy used all Triumph g=hoses, I think a joiner was used).

The conversion also uses a header tank with an air bleed off the rad, a great idea and used on all modern cars to keep the system working at full efficiency.

I have a golf rad in my spitfire, works great even when the 30 year old electric fan died in europe and despite hot weather all was OK. Mine doesn't have an air bleed, that comes direct off my engine. (not standard!)

 

 

Posted

Thank you Clive and Colin for your advise and humour!

I do a fare amount of maintenance when needed on my car but unfortunately I am not proficient to carry out such work.

Shame. I'll have to find some one who is capable and willing cos I do like the idea. Mine overheated last year during the hot temperatures - above 30 c

Thanks again

Maria

 

Posted

Hi Maria, what state is your current radiator in? You might find a replacement standard radiator, aluminium if you want to keep the cost down, will solve the overheating problem without going to the hassle, cost and loss of originality involved in fitting a Golf unit. Radiators gain a lot of efficiency with modern external fin spacing and just having those fins in good condition not to mention clean tube internals....

Posted

What johny said!  My Gt6 is on a standard original type radiator and never overheats (unlike its occupants sometimes). Well, OK, to be strictly fair, it overheated once on the 2002 RBRR when the fan belt snapped, but I don't think a Golf radiator would have helped that.

Posted

+1 again; one of the first things I did with my Mk1 was to have the radiator recored with an uprated modern core; looks the same, but has more tubes. It's quite an easy process for any radiator company, and I might do the same with my latest Herald radiator. 

Posted

Thanks again Johny, Dan & Colin

Radiator was new last year from Rimmers. It has a Revotec electric fan, fitted by Willow Triumphs, but I have since discovered a split in the fuel line connecting both carbs, which I have replaced with ethanol free fuel pipe from the club. 

Last year, the heater valve was replaced see page 68 of the courier. 

Having read your comments, I've gone off the idea of the Golf radiator?

 

Posted

so even with new radiator and electric fan it overheated? Is the engine correctly tuned as weak mixture or too much advance on timing might cause it to produce more heat than necessary?

Posted

It only overheated last year when the temp outside was excessive.

Carbs were tuned last year but I'll get down to the timing  

Thanks for your advice again 

Maria

 

 

Posted

have you checked the engine and head for built up crud in the coolant passages, has the system been flushed with a cleaner, (could result in a new pump!) a quick indication is to remove the block drain plug if blocked and needs a screwdriver to clear then the coolant passages could be restricted, if it runs free should be OK

Posted
4 hours ago, Meeze said:

It only overheated last year when the temp outside was excessive.

Carbs were tuned last year but I'll get down to the timing  

Thanks for your advice again 

Maria

 

 

If you run on regular unleaded with standard ignition timing this can have the same effect as too much advance and the choice is to retard it or get the the fuel octane up. I do the latter with an additive (lead substitute and octane booster combined) but alternatively you can use one of the premium fuels available...

Posted

and never dismiss  duff gauge readings             which rely on a voltage stabiliser and the correct temp transmitter 

on the old forum we had a member had  an engine changed which didnt solve the problem till the transmitter was changed  

Pete

 

Posted

Here’s another with a Mk2 Golf radiator.

34F6FA31-0C43-4199-A5B8-9E4EDD447799.jpeg.b2d8efa95be4c4079fa1840edb74d728.jpeg

36985183-13D8-4E13-9949-5B71E7C6EB5B.jpeg.d9ededb9aba53a217f30658500bbc6c6.jpeg

44341AFE-2597-4F81-8C0B-5737091B3C37.jpeg.aaf2f407763f3a8a454ec04794b54b75.jpeg

Works very well but a fair amount of effort to do nicely.

As the OPs original radiator is fairly new I suspect there is some other root cause.

Nick

Posted
14 hours ago, thescrapman said:

I will ask my question again... 🙂

they really are important.

I found the main cowl made a difference, but not so much the valances. However, the biggest difference to cooling came from lowering the numberplate so it didn't block the airflow.

Gully

Posted

Dear all and thanks for your enthusiasm and replies

Yes, my car has the valances and radiator cowl and electronic ignition. My next to do' list is what Pete suggests. Check for crud in the water ways.

Will be back with an update later in the Spring

 

Posted

as mentioned did the car boil over or just show a high gauge reading when it overheated?

I always wonder if engine waterway crud reduces the heat transfer to the water so although the engine will undoubtedly run hot it wont show in the water temperature....

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