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Painting underside of Herald


Martin mon
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Looking for a bit of advise on chassis painting.

Own early 67 plate 1360 herald com number 594 which had a nut and bolt restoration 8 years ago. Got to stage where minor stone chip rust spots are showing on the front riggers and paint flakes in various areas so needs catching. Underneath sprayed conifer green to match bodywork which is nice. I don't want show winner finish just something lasting. 

So my thought is wire brush back apply rust eating primer (any product suggestions very welcome) and then Hammerite smooth dark green colour which looks to match the conifer colour nicely. Does that sounds ok??

 

 

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No-one will see, apart from you and the MOT Inspector. I'm sending a tub off for sandblasting and welding shortly, and the bodyshop man tells me he'd like to undercoat it in the same stuff they use for modern pick-up loadbeds - matt black, rustproof and hides the welds nicely. Once you put the sills etc on, you can't see what's underneath.

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40 minutes ago, Martin mon said:

So my thought is wire brush back apply rust eating primer (any product suggestions very welcome) and then Hammerite smooth dark green colour which looks to match the conifer colour nicely. Does that sounds ok??

Sounds good to me, and it'll help retain the value of the car.  

Personally speaking I (and I'm sure many other old school types) loath seeing thick 'protective coatings' and matt black under a car ..as they just smack of a bodged job &/or poor welding ..even though the repairs may have been done beautifully (you just can't tell).  Sorry Colin, but my 'fear' (founded in long experience) is so strong that it might put me off buying a car so treated, or at least I drop the value I'm prepared to pay for it ..just in case.   Rubberised protective coating / stone chip is brilliant stuff for example to the underside of a body shell - but imho only when it's been applied before fitting onto the chassis.  Similarly when used for the splash guard areas under the wheel-arches, but even then I much prefer it to be over-painted in body colour.   

Conversely touched-in body colour paint under a car says to me that the owner is conscientious and has cared for the vehicle.

Of course, that's just my opinion,

Pete.

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27 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

No-one will see, apart from you and the MOT Inspector. I'm sending a tub off for sandblasting and welding shortly, and the bodyshop man tells me he'd like to undercoat it in the same stuff they use for modern pick-up loadbeds - matt black, rustproof and hides the welds nicely. Once you put the sills etc on, you can't see what's underneath.

Colin, Upol Raptor is such a paint, but I think it comes in a range of colours, and can be mixed to code (not certain, but tinters are available)

So you could have the best of all worlds.

32 minutes ago, Martin mon said:

So my thought is wire brush back apply rust eating primer (any product suggestions very welcome) and then Hammerite smooth dark green colour which looks to match the conifer colour nicely. Does that sounds ok??

Anything with phosphoric acid will work, that is teh active ingredient. Or just buy some phosphoric acid off ebay. Otherwise deox-gel

As to hammerite. Just no. Nothing like it was 20 years ago, often referred to as Chipperite these days for good reasons. A dab of etch primer and then prime/paint. Synthetic car/lorry paint is pretty tough. Often marketed as chassis paints. I have used a Dinitrol hard wax (like waxoyl, but still intact after 15000+ miles of hard use in the wheelarches etc) to protect the areas susceptible to stonechips. I was expecting to reapply each year, so very impressed.

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I use Bilthamber Epoxy Mastic paint which will cover metal, paint . I wire brush , degrease , rust conversion with BH Hydrate 80 then brush paint the epoxy mastic . Finally spray can with Dynax which is a waxoyl type product . The flooring has already been under sealed so not practical to remove so spray Dynax products 

Paul 

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2 hours ago, clive said:

Colin, Upol Raptor is such a paint, but I think it comes in a range of colours, and can be mixed to code (not certain, but tinters are available)

I think he did mention a coloured version; has all the benefits of stonechip and rustproofing but he says if anyone ever tries to remove it they'll curse me to eternity. I'll know when I see him again. It's just an option we discussed, but it'll be applied whilst the tub is off, and he's a professional bodyworker so it won't be to hide anything, certainly nothing that he did anyway...

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In my experience Hammerite is now dreadful. Did the underside and footwells in it 30 years ago when it was good. I believe that in those days it was some sort of glass suspended in a resin. Great stuff. Now, yes it chips and is living on a pond dead reputation. Also not a fan of POR15. Too fidley to get right and if you get the preparation wrong it comes off in sheets. Go with the dinitrol/upol/bilthamber suggestions.

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13 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

In my experience Hammerite is now dreadful. Did the underside and footwells in it 30 years ago when it was good. I believe that in those days it was some sort of glass suspended in a resin. Great stuff. 

Back in the day it had to be bought mail order, I got mine via ads in Exchange & Mart. Yes I agree now it isn't worth the money.

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