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gearbox cover to tunnel gap filler?


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ive always used a section cut from a sheet of seat foam pad ex dunelm 

just glue it on , some like sealed cell foam but youre stopping draft and noise , not oil or petrol 

use it all round the tunnel takes up all the wonky faces , the supposed correct ribbed seals are useless  and bl**dy silly money

its prpbably sitting high due to the return flange depth which originals dont have 

Pete

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

ive always used a section cut from a sheet of seat foam pad ex dunelm 

just glue it on , some like sealed cell foam but youre stopping draft and noise , not oil or petrol 

use it all round the tunnel takes up all the wonky faces , the supposed correct ribbed seals are useless  and bl**dy silly money

its prpbably sitting high due to the return flange depth which originals dont have 

Pete

you are right pete, the flange isn't helping things, i'll remove that and try again.

cheers

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry to jump on this tag but I have a related question that I am still confused by 

The Kit that holds the tunnel down comes in four parts the clip that that fits to the lip of the bodywork, the Screw, the elongated dual opening rectangular top clamp and finally a washer. Where does the washer go in the order of things? If its above the tunnel surely this stops you from removing the tunnel without taking the screws completely out. I thought the idea is not to have to do that but just to loosen and take the rectangular clamps off

Thx

 

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Yes, this was not Triumph's finest idea. I works, sort of, when the tunnel is cardboard, but is it necessary on upvc?  I don't think you can lift the tunnel high enough to get it over the screws, certainly not on mine. So my screws would have to come fully out anyway. I've assembled them screw, washer, plate, but really? Unnecessary. For £30 the kit is a rip off, the gasket is too shallow, the plates and screws are on the old one and if you don't have them, ordinary washers and screws would be fine on plastic.

Doug

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I can see the point of not totally removng the screw as i find it a complete sod to locate them properly I agree about the silly price and the gasket being too shallow.  Anyone found another better seal to use??

 

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The "rectangular clips" are "Spire clips" designed to go on the edge of a panel and take at screws, so they won't wear the hole in the panel, as they are herdened.   They are semi permanent. 

John

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13 minutes ago, JohnD said:

so they won't wear the hole in the panel,

Great when the panel is card, but not necessary on plastic.

Aidan, I put in an additional layer of draught excluder. :)

db 

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3 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Great when the panel is card, but not necessary on plastic.

Aidan, I put in an additional layer of draught excluder. :)

db 

No, no!  The Spires go on the edge of the METAL floor panel!

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20 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

a slab of foam from dunelm , 25mm thick  cut strips and glue in place , crushes easy and fills large gaps easy 

not that it matters but being upholstery its flame retardant 

Pete 

Good idea

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7 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

advantage is one slab makes lots  . 

if you use carpet spray glue ....get the nozzle facing the right way  , 

Pete

Sound like you have experience!

Do you think fire proof foam filler would work? Used sparingly and cut down if needed?

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3 hours ago, JohnD said:

No, no!  The Spires go on the edge of the METAL floor panel!

Well I'm surprised! I've never seen them other than on the edge on the tunnel lip and I've seen a few. And they are not flat, they have a lip which if they were on the metal floor would raise the tunnel and I'd need a third layer of insulating tape!

Doug 

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As I already had some I used strips of sticky back closed cell sound deadening material 10mm thick for gap filling (not in the photo) Incidentally, I sprayed sticky foam inside the cardboard cover as the plasticky Triumph insulating stuff was trashed. Quick and easy to shape with a big bendy hand saw. Repaired the damaged card with fibre reinforced 50mm sticky tape. The whole thing is much more rigid now, even with access hatches. (okay, I may have gone over the top with them but I have big clumsy hands!).

IMG_20210311_161922.jpg

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Hi

I`m considering Fibreglassing the whole cover, to impart some rigidity and repair a section that is "suspect". Any one done it and did it introduce distortion?. And would you put it inside the cover or outside?. I`m going to put "noico" on the cover anyway.

Pete

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19 minutes ago, PeteH said:

Hi

I`m considering Fibreglassing the whole cover, to impart some rigidity and repair a section that is "suspect". Any one done it and did it introduce distortion?. And would you put it inside the cover or outside?. I`m going to put "noico" on the cover anyway.

Pete

I haven't need ed to do the whole cover, but have repaired the front end where the flat section joints the main tunnel bit, it often gets cracked/broken. And the lip where it screws to the floor is a similar situation. I didn't get distortion, but I did it in 2 hits, standing the tunnel upright on teh front and making sure teh floor lips were exactly vertical. Repair that bit, then 20 mins later put it flat on the floor. Done on newspaper (that was when we got a newspaper) so it didn't stick to anything important. 

If doing teh whole thing, I would do the repairs first, then a layer of tissue over the whole thing. On the cabin side, because it would be easier. If clean on the inside, a coat of resin and tissue would not hurt. 

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Thanks Clive.

I`m trying to think ahead, and as currently there is no Dash or anything in the way, just the shell, I wondered about temporary fastening it in and glassing the exterior in situ. My theory being that would ensure an accurate fit?.

Pete

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28 minutes ago, PeteH said:

Thanks Clive.

I`m trying to think ahead, and as currently there is no Dash or anything in the way, just the shell, I wondered about temporary fastening it in and glassing the exterior in situ. My theory being that would ensure an accurate fit?.

Pete

Yes, fitting it would indeed give a perfect fit. Do put newspaper or similar on the contact surfaces to prevent stickage. Not sure how you can fix it to the floor as the screws will get glassed in. Maybe a smear of silicone (LMN would be my choice) so you can remove the screws, then slice through the silicone after. I used silicone on my vitesse tunnel, as I had a oil filler hatch cut, and the tunnel rarely came out. Makes a very good seal!

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