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Mathew

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Is it posible to swap out a 2000/2500 servo without having to blead the brakes? As mine is still as heavy as the day i got it and my mk1 2000 was nice and light. Any things to watch out for if it is. Thinking of either repairing or swapping the servo to get some lighter breaking. Plus it niggles me .

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Hi

You could try putting cling film over the top of the master cyl; reserviour, and put the cap back on?. Won`t stop a little fluid loss but will slow it right down. Cap the end of any pipework ASAP. Cannot off-hand think of any way to prevent having to bleed, Maybe if the fluid is 2 or more years old treat it as the oportunity to to completely renew the fluid?.

Pete

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cant say i fitted a new   as the old one the plastic diaphragm piston fractured , 

its not the best feeling of brakes i have even fancied fitting a in the line remote extra servo 

the servo has to allow atmospheric pressure in via the cabin  so there should be a foam filter that end of the servo  make sure its clean 

 

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54 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

cant say i fitted a new   as the old one the plastic diaphragm piston fractured , 

its not the best feeling of brakes i have even fancied fitting a in the line remote extra servo 

the servo has to allow atmospheric pressure in via the cabin  so there should be a foam filter that end of the servo  make sure its clean 

 

Will check that next, 

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cut the vacuum pipe, engine running. Definitely vacuum on the pipe. No difference on brakes on or off. Its coming out.

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With no assistance its hard to test the servo now! Could it be the master cylinder!? I remember on my mark 1 the brake pedal was softer after i changed the seals, they let go 70 miles from home, that was interesting. Then i just used a master cylinder repair kit. Could the seals in the master be at fault? I am lazy so anything that can save work.

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Ok, not scientific S W M B O came home after a walk. Holding pushrod, engine off with no vacuum.  Felt pressure.  With engine on smooth and alot easier? Worth putting attention to brakes/ master cylinder first as 200 pounds for the servo.

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18 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

Might be worth checking the seal on the cabin side is intact.

probably a split in the diaphragm 

Had that on a gt6 and smoke out the exhaust, alot of fluid lost. Not got this on the 2500s. Will try the new seal kit first, servo second and if thats no good the front brakes. On testing the vacuum on the pipe, open engine increased speed. On the servo speed back to normal idle, the master cylinder not on the servo.

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first thing tomorrow morning fit this kit on the master and blead. If no joy up to rimmers for a servo. Will check calipers when i blead them but as a hard press operates them and they don't stick on after i suspect they are ok.

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All back together.  Quick blead, not connected easy pedal, connected and air out hard pedal, then the engine on and i get more travel but still stiff. Taking a look at the caliper its past its best. Looks like a newish disk and green stuff pads. It has not been off the car for a long time. Rounded both bolts with the correct size 6 point socket! Me thinks these will need changing

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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

If you have 14" wheels you will find stag disc and calipers half the 2000 prices   direct fit if the wheels are 14"   wont fit with 13" 

Pete

Have the later stag alloys  👍 any recomendations where to buy?

I did put the wavey washer on 

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not really  , Garth got mine via rimmers when he was in the shop 

its a search , you will see what i mean about costs 

i also used a stag/TR7 rear shoe adjust/expander as it has same internal length but has 15mm extra on the short cable  pivot lever   gives a far better handbrake 

again available cheap  and  2000 ones hens teeth £££s

Pete

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The last time I had to remove a seized bolt like that, I welded a Larger Nut over the top of the bolt, that gives more purchase than the socket, the heat helps "crack" the corrosion, and saves expensive sockets. even old one`s.👍

Pete

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