2500s bottom hoses, the hampster wheel of chasing cool temp reading 🐹

[Mathew]

Hi, i have some perished hoses . The 2500s with pas. Is there a hose that someone has used to replicate these two hoses. Should say its the bottom two to the bottom radiator. I have replaced the top hose to the top radiator a little while ago and did not want to buy a set . I know rimmer sell the hoses, thought someone would have found a cheaper way .

 

[Mjit]

Never mind the 2 hoses, what condition's your metal pipe in?

My experience is that, these days the metal pipe will be in worse condition than the rubber hoses, though you only really know when you take it apart (stainless replacements available).

The pipes seem to be cheaper from Chris Witor - but even at Rimmers £11 each, well how cheap did you think you could get?  They are just short-ish 90 and 45 degree bends so you might be able to measure the diameter and find cheaper listed online as mark independent parts.

[Mathew]

When i look at witter most things are out of stock! Will concentrate on this once hydraulics sorted.

[Mathew]

1 hour ago, Mjit said:

Never mind the 2 hoses, what condition's your metal pipe in?

My experience is that, these days the metal pipe will be in worse condition than the rubber hoses, though you only really know when you take it apart (stainless replacements available).

The pipes seem to be cheaper from Chris Witor - but even at Rimmers £11 each, well how cheap did you think you could get?  They are just short-ish 90 and 45 degree bends so you might be able to measure the diameter and find cheaper listed online as mark independent parts.

Parts ordered, both pipes and stainless pipe. I also ordered a braded hose for the clutch! Thanks for the heads up, every time i looked for other bits it was out of stock.

[Mathew]

Parts just arrived, will have to clean some swaff out of the stainless pipe before fitting.

 

[Mathew]

Fitting! Tight.

Still looks better that came off.

[Colin Lindsay]

Very very close to that pulley! You're sure it won't move about as the car drives?

[Mjit]

12 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Very very close to that pulley! You're sure it won't move about as the car drives?

Looks normal for a PAS big saloon to me.

I'd say there's a bit of the parallax error lying on just how close it is - it's more than a feeler gauge but less than a finger job.

[Mathew]

Checked at tick over, taken for a run. Will check again when cooled down, then top up if required.

[Mathew]

Cooled down and only a minor top up, I did give the hoses a good squeeze and top up before going for the run. No leaks now, so thats a bonus. Temp guage held at 3/4 mark to just below it. How is that compaired to others?

[Pete Lewis]

dont know  will have try driving with me glasses on   Ha !

mine runs around mid point with a 82 c stat.

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

Mid point was always good on my GT6; means you can spot any movement off the vertical as soon as it happens.

[poppyman]

Around the 1/4 on my S, not sure on the stat but the heater is nice and hot. Just put a new transmitter in as it stopped working and still reads the same. Goes to 3/4 when mad hot stuck in traffic.

Tony. 

[Mathew]

This is a picture of the guage with the temp at running, fully warmed up.

The thermostat 

And guess which radiator cap

The bottom one, the top is a standard spitfire.

Plan tomorrow,  get new cap and thermostat. Already flushed system twice.

Any other thoughts?

[Pete Lewis]

well 82 is correct as i see it  the spitty cap is well swollen ( probably blocks any escaping) and the mk2 cap is without its 2ndary  seal so

wont recoup the expansion bottle 

dont get too carried away gauges are an indication your looking for changes not is it accurate to a few deg C 

apart from the stat two things give high reading wrong sender  or duff stabiliser   but your reading is not far from normal 

you might change everything and make little change apart from its now in a known state .

Pete

 

[Mathew]

Not quite happy as most on here have lower temp readings. Thought i would test the stat as it was out anyway, found it opened with hot water but soon closed. Bought another 82, and a 74 . Tested the two 82s together. The new one opened at the same time but opened bigger and stayed open longer! Then tested the new 74 and 82. Both opened together and the 74 closed shortly after the 82. Will try the new 82. The old one was new! But had been stored for probably 10 years. Will update later.

[Mathew]

Took out for a run, temp still 3/4 with the 82 deg. Do i try 74? Heater is blowing very hot. I know its very hot day. Rad is hot at top, cooler at bottom. I have also changed the distributor for electronic, more of that in another section. There was only one strange thing. I switched the heating off and had a couple of spots of water hit my arm! Other than that drove really well. I did find another radiator cap 13lb 

[Pete Lewis]

we had a test tank for stat testing it raised circulated water in 0.1 c increments  with a gauge to show and plot temp and the opening 

boiling it like an egg wont prove much as with steam and bubbling you wont see the actual start of it opening 

they are a clever little devil and poaching it doesnt do much for its image !!1

you asnwer is to ....bend the needle    you may even find the gauge has a calibration screw you can twiddle to reduce the needle reading 

as i said  you can do a lot of work and have no result , and you have   Ha !

[Mathew]

Its like running on a hampsters wheel

[Mjit]

If you're really worried about the temperature gauge reading I'd buy a new temp. sender as a next step, then remove the old one and start testing both against a resistance meter/a jug of hot water.

The temp. sensors in our cars are very much indicative than precise - their resistance changes with temp, but drop the tips of 2 sensors in the same hot water and you'll usually get slightly different resistance values.  And a different resistance in the temp. gauge circuit means a different reading on the needle.  The internet suggests 100c is where the coolant temp should be ideally, so fit whichever reads slightly (higher/lower - I'm not sure off the top of my head) resistance dipped in boiling water and see where your needle sits then.

[Mathew]

Part of the rimmers order pickup 👍

[Mathew]

This afternoons fun and games.

then a few test runs.

[Pete Lewis]

now youre changing the pump  ???? !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

a smiths test box would prove the sender and calibrate the gauge 

I have one   they come up on e bay from time to time 

[Scrappy]

On 31/03/2021 at 17:06, Mathew said:

Its like running on a hampsters wheel

Drop the tickover and leave to tickover for a few seconds before turning off Mathew. My 2000 did that until i had it ticking over at 600 rpm. No problems since.

Alf.

[Mathew]

Ok, the temperature gauge now reads correctly at just below halfway. Picture after i switched off for a minute, sill half way.

Bit of condensation on volt guage, first time i have driven in the dark, hence lights were on. Very pleased as i gave it a dam good thrashing (Italian tune up) up then down the a10. 

Now was it just the sender? The one in it was a new one i had on the shelf, swapped for the one i bought today from rimmers.

A bitpart item, number in photo. Also the resistor part slightly thicker than the one i had in.

Or was it a dodgy water pump, this is the least lightly as the one that came out seemed ok, not quite as smooth but you would be hard pressed to tell the difference blindfolded. 

Still its a good spare!

The third thing i changed was the fan belt (could be) . Noticed was not as tight as i would like but no more adjustment.  As luck would have it a number of spare belts came in the box of spares. So off with the belt, first removing power steering belt! . Luckly checked lengths, the one that came off was 1088mm, the first spare (which even though in original packaging looked older!) Was1092. Luck was on my side as the other belt not only looked brand new but was also 1088mm long. Fitted brought the alternator mid point between the engine and battery.  Probably could get a slightly shorter belt to allow more adjustment. 

I took the opertunity to slightly move the power stering pump. I put a washer in between the pump and the adjusting bracket. This had two effects, it gave an extra mm between the bottom water pipe and pump pully and seemed to align the pully better to the crankshaft pully.

Tomorrow before work when cool i will check the water level, and spark plug colour after the Italian tune up.

The shot gun approach as for 30 pounds for a pump i wanted to make sure it was right before i started my next set of four.