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Stainless braided hose - or attempting to get the clutch working properly 🤔 then doing it twice cos you got it wrong in the first place!


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1 hour ago, johny said:

B&B should be ok but price annoying - supplier doesnt do price match do they?

I did point out price, just got an arr well! Need it for early next week to fit. Easter weekend so will not get in time now. Just a heads up, double check before you buy.

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I'm sure the clutch will be ok.

20210401_152643.thumb.jpg.0494d9f261c2e3e8ce8f01b01e4aa0e1.jpg

Ready for next week. I have gl4 spec oil for the gearbox. Anything i have missed? Will have to see about the fork and carrier when its out, finger's crossed.

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2 hours ago, Mathew said:

I did point out price, just got an arr well! Need it for early next week to fit. Easter weekend so will not get in time now. Just a heads up, double check before you buy.

yes and theres usually a clause in the small print that says 'this item or similar' or 'photo only for representation'...

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i found about the sheared dowel bolt on a TR box when the dowel i thought was fully removed found the remains stopped the 

removal of the cross shaft , lucky it had the extra drifting hole already in place in the fork so knocking the failed end out was 

a lot of hammer ingress but out popped the tail of the dowel 

my mk2 had also a fracture but all came out easily 

hatefull blasted things 

Pete

 

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

i found about the sheared dowel bolt on a TR box when the dowel i thought was fully removed found the remains stopped the 

removal of the cross shaft , lucky it had the extra drifting hole already in place in the fork so knocking the failed end out was 

a lot of hammer ingress but out popped the tail of the dowel 

my mk2 had also a fracture but all came out easily 

hatefull blasted things 

Pete

 

You would have thought a keyway would have been better.

This is now my only job for my next set of four off. Clutch change, release linkage replace (well i bought the bits), wobbly gear leaver and split boot, get the overdrive to work again (suspect leed to switch as it only stopped when i took the cover off to look at leaver!), change gearbox and diff oil. Oh and get some gap bigger that a feeler guage between the propshaft and exhaust!

The way it is driving now makes me want to take it out more! 😁

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22 hours ago, Mathew said:

I'm sure the clutch will be ok.

20210401_152643.thumb.jpg.0494d9f261c2e3e8ce8f01b01e4aa0e1.jpg

Ready for next week. I have gl4 spec oil for the gearbox. Anything i have missed? Will have to see about the fork and carrier when its out, finger's crossed.

I think the only thing you're missing are:

  1. Angle grinder.  Sure, just for 'shits and giggles' try undoing the dowel bolt - I mean one day one will have to come out simply and easilly for someone!  But when it snaps (just compare the bit that comes out to the new one) you have a new shaft so don't waste time messing around, just take the cutting disk to the old one so you can get the fork on the bench to drill a small 'drift it out from the other side' hole.

    Or is that the angle grinder plug in the photo? :)
  2. The haunted, pained look of anyone who's ever removed/refitted a 2000 gearbox (unless you're really posh and have a ramp)... Partly it's so heavy, and you'll spend a lot of time cursing you're life as you try to get to those upper gearbox/engine bolts.
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15 minutes ago, Mjit said:

I think the only thing you're missing are:

  1. Angle grinder.  Sure, just for 'shits and giggles' try undoing the dowel bolt - I mean one day one will have to come out simply and easilly for someone!  But when it snaps (just compare the bit that comes out to the new one) you have a new shaft so don't waste time messing around, just take the cutting disk to the old one so you can get the fork on the bench to drill a small 'drift it out from the other side' hole.

    Or is that the angle grinder plug in the photo? :)
  2. The haunted, pained look of anyone who's ever removed/refitted a 2000 gearbox (unless you're really posh and have a ramp)... Partly it's so heavy, and you'll spend a lot of time cursing you're life as you try to get to those upper gearbox/engine bolts.

I have two angle grinders! Corded and un corded. I have carried one of these gearboxes before, they are heavy, luckily not as heavy as the engine. 10 years ago i move one of them on my own, boy did i break a sweat. I could not do that today.

I will remove the top bolts from above before going under. I have an engine hoist to hold the rear of the engine in the position i want, or an a frame with a block and tackle. Then a high lift 3 tonne trolly jack to support the gearbox. I can lift the car 400mm at least and suport on axel stands.

Hopefully all will go well. Plan to do in a couple of days , taking my time as there is always something that comes up. Will do a check list , last thing i want is to forget to fill with oil or leave a bolt undone.

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watch for hose stretch  maybe drop the  4 rad fixings to allow the angle to get the box off is quite steep 

needs the exhaust dropping too.

i got a snazzy transmission tilt lifter to fit on the trolley jack but didnt have the room to get the jack the lift and the gearbox under the car 

so it hangs on the wall for some obscure idea i might work one day 

had a spitfire round last year with awful gearbox noise after a rebuild , so i said you did put some oil in didnt you ........er   erm ......No

i now know him has no oil mick .

Pete

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

had a spitfire round last year with awful gearbox noise after a rebuild , so i said you did put some oil in didnt you ........er   erm ......No

i now know him has no oil mick .

Pete

Our local branch 'Garage Day' should be coming up soon, Covid regulations permitting; members bring their cars across and everything gets checked cleaned and refilled as necessary like a production line. The first one was two years ago and we had completely empty diffs and almost dry gearboxes; last year any of the culprits who came back were refilled but not as low as the year before. I've laid in five litres of EP90 just in case.

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Ok i have a plan. Please chip in if i have missed anything. Plan to start Wednesday morning till its done.

1. Disconnect battery 

2. Drain coolant 

3. Disconnect radiator hoses and heater hoses. Remove radiator?

4. Disconnect and cap fuel line before pump (will be replacing as got cracks).

5. Disconnect gearleaver from inside car and remove.

6. Lift car and support on stands.

7. Drain gearbox.

8. Remove exhaust in the way of dropping gearbox.

9. Disconnect propshaft, speedo cable and slave pushrod.

10. Support engine and gearbox on trolley jack, remove nuts holding gearbox to body (four beam ones) and lower to an angle to be able to remove engine bolts. 

11 Support engine in fixed position and mover trolly jack to support gearbox.

12. Remove engine to gearbox bolts.

13. Carefully wiggle to free gearbox from engine, supported by trolly jack  (i know item 13) maybe lower and slide onto car creeper. 

14. Replace clutch, clutch activation  parts. Sort any items that are discovered on the way!

15. The reversal of parts 14 to 1.

Wish me luck, and must remember to take some photos along the way.

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no need to drain just unbolt the rad so it can tilt  its only 4 easy bolts 

and yes you need to drop a lot to get at the top nuts , a couple of long extensions and a wobble bar /uj will help 

do you have a dummy shaft , pointed stick or a plastic shaft ( from club shop) to realign the new disc ??

Pete

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12 hours ago, Mathew said:

The starter motor will need to come off?!

Yes and no.  You don't specifically need to remove it to do the job but it's held on by 2 of the engine/gearbox bolts and you need to remove those bolts so ends up loose.

 

Only thing to watch Matthew is that it's a bugger to try and guess the gearbox fore/aft balance point (think it turned out to be just ahead of the drain plug) and seems to contain an inverted Weeble, because while a Weeble wobbles but won't fall over the bloody gearbox seems to want to do anything except stay upright on the jack.  Next time I need to do this I'll be knocking up a rough cradle, probably a box frame with some adjustable lengths of stud at each corner so when (not if, when) it tries to roll off the jack it can only go so far before some of the studs 'touch down' and balance it.

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35 minutes ago, Mjit said:

 bloody gearbox seems to want to do anything except stay upright on the jack.  Next time I need to do this I'll be knocking up a rough cradle, probably a box frame with some adjustable lengths of stud at each corner so when (not if, when) it tries to roll off the jack it can only go so far before some of the studs 'touch down' and balance it.

Yes, when the car is lifted a frame for the gearbox fitted into the trolly jack, if im able would be a good idea. 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

 

do you have a dummy shaft , pointed stick or a plastic shaft ( from club shop) to realign the new disc ??

Pete

I have an old clutch alignment tool, bought from a secondhand tool stand many years ago. I have used it on a couple if clutches, but i have seen those dummy end shafts and they look just the ticket. Won't have time to get one before job done this time. 🤔 Will still need to drop water as hoses for heater need to be disconnected as gear box side being dropped and will stretch those.

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3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

that metal hedgehog is not that unusual 

in the gear lever is that just the end of the anti sizzle spring was the plunger missing 

Pete

Yea, i have a new spring and pin

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  • Mathew changed the title to Stainless braided hose - or attempting to get the clutch working properly 🤔 then doing it twice cos you got it wrong in the first place!

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