Matt T Posted March 30, 2021 Report Share Posted March 30, 2021 Hello, I’ve just recently started ‘looking after’ a Mk3 GT6 for my son, he had nowhere to garage it – so he let dad have the pleasure. So I’m just beginning to appreciate the fun (and pain) of owning a classic. Looking around I’m seeing the nearside engine mount needs replacing – see photo. I’ve sent off for and have now got the replacement bits. I’m looking for a bit of advice. Having no engine hoist would you recommend jacking up/supporting the engine weight via suitable piece of wood positioned under the sump and a trolley jack? Would the sump be able to take this? Or is there a better way to do this? Hope you can help – any advice welcome. MattT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 30, 2021 Report Share Posted March 30, 2021 You can jack the sump if you spread the load so a suitable flat piece of hefty wood will help. You're only taking the weight, so be gentle and you won't distort it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 you mat find as the mount sits in a flanged turret and sits as a Vee you need to take the mount bracket off the block to get the rubber mount out long time since i did this but its not as straight forward as it seems enjoy the fun Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 I changed one on my GT6 a couple of years ago and found it pretty straightforward. I didn't like the idea of jacking under the sump, so jacked a block of wood positioned along the front flange area of the sump to take the weight. I then removed the two bolts holding the mount to the turret and the 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine and removed the unit complete. I then loosely reassembled the engine mounting plate with the new engine mount and reversed the process. From recollection, I used a pry bar to gently shift the engine a little (opening the V) to ensure all the bolts aligned to start them off. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 7 minutes ago, Gully said: I changed one on my GT6 a couple of years ago and found it pretty straightforward. I didn't like the idea of jacking under the sump, so jacked a block of wood positioned along the front flange area of the sump to take the weight. I then removed the two bolts holding the mount to the turret and the 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine and removed the unit complete. I then loosely reassembled the engine mounting plate with the new engine mount and reversed the process. From recollection, I used a pry bar to gently shift the engine a little (opening the V) to ensure all the bolts aligned to start them off. Gully +1 That's exactly how I tackled this job. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Matt one thing is that many engine mounts look like that (mine included) but are actually still pretty solid and useable. It doesnt look pretty but the risk with replacing it is the quality of rubber in the pattern parts which many have found doesnt last anything like the originals. You can test that mount by levering the engine around to check for excessive movement or, perhaps more easily, have an assistant watch the engine while you partially engage the clutch with it running and front wheels chocked... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 I did it exactly as Gully and Nigel and found it quite straightforward. I also agree with Johny, have a poke about before you decide. Sadly there are a lot of poor quality rubber parts around and you may find yourself doing it again within the year! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 of course just jacking the engine as described earlier is also another good way of seeing how solid the engine mounts are. Ive found the pattern gearbox rubber mounts (non OD) dont seem to last long especially as theyre not very beefy and get rather contorted once installed. They have deteriorated after a couple of years while my engine mounts are over 50 years old... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt T Posted March 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Hello, I’m blown away by such a quick response to my first query – thanks everyone ! I like the idea from Johny to check out the mount again, it does look pretty well cracked mind. By the way, I was surprised by how stiff the mounting arrangement is, I couldn’t get any movement by trying to wobble the engine – is that normal I wonder? Thanks again for the warm welcome to the Triumph family. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 By Hand the 6 pot is such a dead weight ground anchor you wont have much luck to get any movement Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 I put on metal side panels and had to cut one down to accommodate the carb air filter box. I gave it a 1" clearance and put on a rubber edging piece on the cut side panel. After driving around a bit I found the rubber piece squashed and thought a 1.25" would have ensured no damage. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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