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Posted

When I rebuilt the Spitfire I sprayed it with cellulose paint. (Did it myself in garage so didn't want to use 2 pack for HSE reasons. ) I'm now finding that water drops are leaving a mark. It's almost as if the water is dissolving the paint as they are almost impossible to polish out. I guess I should have re-waxed more often but has anyone else notice this effect with modern celly ?

 

Posted
52 minutes ago, PeterH said:

When I rebuilt the Spitfire I sprayed it with cellulose paint. (Did it myself in garage so didn't want to use 2 pack for HSE reasons. ) I'm now finding that water drops are leaving a mark. It's almost as if the water is dissolving the paint as they are almost impossible to polish out. I guess I should have re-waxed more often but has anyone else notice this effect with modern celly ?

 

It's mainly caused by modern polish Pete, it has a product called "naptha" in it. You can stop it by stripping the wax polish off with white spirit or turps (test a small area first) then buff with Farecla fine compound the use a traditional Hard wax and should stop it happening. I had the same problem with a blue woleseley. It's either that or dry the car before the sun is on the rain beads.

Tony.

  • Like 1
Posted

I had to spray some "repair panels" a few years back. And used Cellulose, base coat, finished off with a top laquer.

Pete

Posted
18 hours ago, PeteH said:

I had to spray some "repair panels" a few years back. And used Cellulose, base coat, finished off with a top laquer.

Pete

Hi Pete . Can you tell the difference between polished cellulose and clear coat over cellulose apart from the hard work with the celly 😋

Paul 

Posted
3 hours ago, Paul H said:

Hi Pete . Can you tell the difference between polished cellulose and clear coat over cellulose apart from the hard work with the celly 😋

Paul 

To be fair, I found it relatively easy and the final result was a decent match for the existing panels. The vehicle in question was a `96 Fiat Punto which had been "written off" by the insurers after Lady "T-Boned" it in Morrisons Car Park!. I even got a decent colour match too, from the paint supplier. Like PeterH I cannot paint in 2K at home, hence my choice.

Pete(H)

Posted

I did try lacquer on a metalic on another car several years ago.  Not sure what it was now but not 2 pack. It was lifting and looked awful after a couple of years.

Posted
11 hours ago, PeterH said:

I did try lacquer on a metalic on another car several years ago.  Not sure what it was now but not 2 pack. It was lifting and looked awful after a couple of years.

I cannot understand why the laquer lifts, although airborne silicones have been blamed?. I had that happen on the last Punto, It was a red (scilla),And had been a cat 2 and repaired (not by me). I was doing a "repair" on an otherwise still (green) useable car. So my options where limited by what was to hand. When I get to the final finish on the 13/60. it will go to a Body shop. Where they have the full "monty". Having said that 3 years later the paint I had done was still surprisingly good, by that time the car was no longer reguired. and was sold, the people who paid a few hundred for it where quite happy. All Told I had 5 Punto`s over an 10 year period. I have a P-107 semi-Auto now £25 a year tax!, nice little shopping basket/mobile dog kennel, the bonus being it tows 4 wheels down behind the Motorhome.

Pete

Posted

How long did you leave spraying the clear over the colour? The clear is usually chemically bonded to the base coat so is best done after the base has flash dried and not left overnight.

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, Mathew said:

How long did you leave spraying the clear over the colour? The clear is usually chemically bonded to the base coat so is best done after the base has flash dried and not left overnight.

That is what I was told, (by a professional painter) Not to let the Base coat "cure", but to put the laquer on almost as soon as the base coat has "gone off"?. If you think about it it does make sense?.

Pete

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