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Need spare wheel for Spitfire


cliff.b

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I'd ask if you actually need one.

I've not had a spare in my Spitfire for over 10 years, just going with a can of puncture spray and breakdown cover - neither of which I've had to use (at least not for punctures in the latter case).  Started off taking it out for the extra luggage space to get everything in for the annual trip to Le Mans but never got around to putting it back in again.

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13 minutes ago, Mathew said:

Got lots, free come and get if your near downham market, norfolk (its camb border side)

Ok, thanks. Not far from me so I will arrange a convenient time to collect one if that's ok?

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8 hours ago, Mjit said:

I'd ask if you actually need one.

I've not had a spare in my Spitfire for over 10 years, just going with a can of puncture spray and breakdown cover - neither of which I've had to use (at least not for punctures in the latter case).  Started off taking it out for the extra luggage space to get everything in for the annual trip to Le Mans but never got around to putting it back in again.

The spare wheel, when bolted down, forms part of the rear crash structure.

So yes, I have 1 in both my Spitfires.

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4 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

The spare wheel, when bolted down, forms part of the rear crash structure.

So yes, I have 1 in both my Spitfires.

Its also a pain in the arse to have to get someone to fix! Your car when you could just change the wheel and be on your way.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 01/05/2021 at 16:28, Mathew said:

Nice one pete. 

He is all sorted now, just needs a tyre as the ones i had are far past there best!

Hi Mathew, just thought I'd send you a pic of the wheel that you kindly let me have now that it's been de-rusted, painted & tyre fitted. 

Again, many thanks 👍

IMG_20210511_165710_451.jpg

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30 minutes ago, Mathew said:

You have done a good job on it, hope it never needs to be used in an emergency! But now at least you have peace of mind.

Absolutely. I experimented removing the rust using electrolysis and it was quite effective. Certainly quicker than removing it all by hand.

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6 minutes ago, cliff.b said:

Absolutely. I experimented removing the rust using electrolysis and it was quite effective. Certainly quicker than removing it all by hand.

I did that on an old exhaust manifold, it works really well.

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1 hour ago, cliff.b said:

Absolutely. I experimented removing the rust using electrolysis and it was quite effective. Certainly quicker than removing it all by hand.

You can’t mention that and not explain how you did it!

Adrian

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1) I put the wheel & an old piece of steel into a plastic tub with a weak caustic soda/water solution.

2) Connected negative lead of battery charger to wheel & positive to the steel (make sure it doesn't touch the wheel) & set charger to a low current.

3) Remember to do it somewhere well ventilated as the bubbles you see are hydrogen & oxygen 💥

4)Leave for some time (days)

5) Check occasionally to see how it's doing

Result, less rust on wheel (possibly none of you leave it long enough), stuff that looks sort of rusty on the piece of steel & in the bottom of the tub

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53 minutes ago, cliff.b said:

1) I put the wheel & an old piece of steel into a plastic tub with a weak caustic soda/water solution.

2) Connected negative lead of battery charger to wheel & positive to the steel (make sure it doesn't touch the wheel) & set charger to a low current.

3) Remember to do it somewhere well ventilated as the bubbles you see are hydrogen & oxygen 💥

4)Leave for some time (days)

5) Check occasionally to see how it's doing

Result, less rust on wheel (possibly none of you leave it long enough), stuff that looks sort of rusty on the piece of steel & in the bottom of the tub

Same, battery chargers are really good as mine and most have safety built in to stop if it draws too much or dead short.

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9 hours ago, Mathew said:

Same, battery chargers are really good as mine and most have safety built in to stop if it draws too much or dead short.

Yes. I found I had to monitor the current as it started drawing more if the amount of "clag" suspended in the water increased. 

Seems the current can be controlled to some extent by moving the steel anode out of the water a bit or further away from the wheel.

Then all the suspended stuff drops to the bottom & the current drops right off again 😒.

I'm sure that with experience there is a "sweet spot" where it all takes care of itself.

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