Jezza Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 I'm re-fitting the front suspension springs and dampers on my GT6 with the Gaz adjustable ones. Given they are adjustable, are there any recommended settings for the dampers? The main use is road, so a firm but comfortable ride is what I'm after. Do I just mirror the rear suspension settings for the fronts? Any help or advice appreciated. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Jerry, I would suggest you start with fully soft and work from there. Mine are set to two clicks off fully soft and they are fine. Subjective I know and worth a bit of experimentation until you find a setting that suits you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Very easy to make the dampers too hard. Part depends on how stiff the springs are too. But John's words are worth heeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Many thanks for the tips. I finally fitted the new setup (which took ages), took it out for a spin round the block and its far too soft! Tried then to adjust the shocks but found it impossible to turn the tensioner knob. I noticed a very small Allen key type socket (c.2mm) in the side of the tensioner knob but also couldn't shift that either. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to pull the knob out before attempting to tighten? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 What is too soft? springs (what rate are you using? would suggest 4-500lb springs at the front for firm but usable with a GT6) or the damping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 I have mine set fully soft with standard new springs. The knob's dead easy to turn, the instructions tell you to set them soft before install and go from there. I think the Allen screw holds the knob on it's shaft so I wouldn't touch it! They are a vast improvement, no more teeth chattering jumping about! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 @Clive its a good question! Overall the settings are too soft and the tyres rub the arches when I drive over a speed bump or hit a pot hole. I'm using the club shop springs (the uprated ones), so I'd hope they'd have the appropriate resistance. I set the shocks at their fullest length to start with (see picture) so I'll start with winding up the lower spring seat to start with. @dougbgt6 I found the knob incredibly difficult to turn I even set my adjustable wrench on it (softly of course) but no movement either way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Ah! Mine are fixed seat with just the knob for adjustment. Maybe this makes a difference in turnability? I've never had a problem with wheel arch bounce even with the old knackered springs and shocks. I'm guessing you have bigger tyres? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 If the knobs don't turn they need to go back to the supplier. I do get annoyed with spring suppliers who do not state the actual spring rate and ideally the fitted length. So yes TSSC shop, please give figures! Now, I would suspect you have the seats too low and need to wind them up to get an acceptable ride height. In your picture of the (whole) car the height looks about right. edit. Just checked. The shop is selling uprated springs that INCREASE ride height! Hopeless! At very least the stronger springs should be designed so they give a standard ride height. And 20% harder does not a decent uprated spring make.....IIRC they are originally about 200lb? so uprated to 240ish. Nowhere near enough. about 400+ on a GT6 (my spit is on 480LB springs, and even my wife reckons they are OK, firm, but OK. And greatly improve the sporty handling of the car, not to everybodies taste though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 @clive Thanks, I share your frustration! I just called the club shop and they said the '20% more' refers to the 'GT6 workshop manual rating for the standard GT6 springs +20%'. I'm still none the wiser at the moment! Anyway, I hope they should be ok for the car for normal road use once I can get the settings right. On the dampers I'll try again adjusting the tensioner knob, otherwise they're going back to the club shop and I'm back to square one! BTW, the pic of the car in my signature was taken before the Gaz shocks and the club shop springs were fitted. @dougbgt6 How high is the bottom seat on your fixed ones? This might give me at least a rough idea of where to start with mine! Yes, slightly bigger tyres, from memory I think they're 165 65 R13 on 5J wheels. They give a nice ride but the very outer edge of the fronts rubs on the inner lip of the wheel arch when said speed bump is driven over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 From the upper lip of the bottom spring retaining seat, to the lower lip of the upper spring retaining seat, measures 8 and 3/4 inches. Haynes says spring working length on a GT6 9 and 1/2 inches which fits, I think? I also notice that my adjusting knobs are towards the discs and yours must be towards the engine. But I don't see how this makes any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 From the upper lip of the bottom spring retaining seat, to the lower lip of the upper spring retaining seat, measures 8 and 3/4 inches. Haynes says spring working length on a GT6 9 and 1/2 inches which fits, I think? I also notice that my adjusting knobs are towards the discs and yours must be towards the engine. But I don't see how this makes any difference. Thanks for the measurements - I'll get the tape measure (and my Hayes manual) out tonight when I get home. I was advised to fit the dampers with the tensioner facing the chassis as it would be easier to adjust, but as long as you can get to the knob to adjust them I guess it makes little difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Jerry I've attached a couple of photos which I hope may be of help. The first, shows the position of the spring seat on a standard damper. It is about 95mm from the spring seat to the centre of the bush sleeve. So from your picture it does look as if you need to wind your up by quite a bit. The second picture shows the position of the spring seat with 330 pound springs. These have an open length of 9.5 inches. The adjusters on mine face the centre of the car and are very easy to adjust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Very helpful John, many thanks for these. I'll need to revisit this when I have some light (no power in my garage) but from your pictures it certainly does look like the lower spring seating needs raising quite a lot. I've also realised I didn't fit the lower locking collar, so I have the adjustable spring seat only! So they'll have to come off anyway! Many thanks to all who helped! Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 You are welcome Jerry. As you are going to remove the dampers from the car to fit the locking rings you might find it easier to wind the spring seats up off the car and make the final adjustments when fitted. I found that the C spanner fouled the suspension and it was quite difficult to turn the rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 You are welcome Jerry. As you are going to remove the dampers from the car to fit the locking rings you might find it easier to wind the spring seats up off the car and make the final adjustments when fitted. I found that the C spanner fouled the suspension and it was quite difficult to turn the rings. .. and give me a chance to take another look at the tensioner knob and speak to the club shop if they don't turn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 .. and give me a chance to take another look at the tensioner knob and speak to the club shop if they don't turn! Are you sure they are not fully tightened Jerry. It would be unusual if both were faulty I would have thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Are you sure they are not fully tightened Jerry. It would be unusual if both were faulty I would have thought. It is possible, and I did think the same that it would be odd (or just very unlucky) for both to be faulty. I tried both dampers, and tried turning them both ways. There was a small turn (maybe 2mm in each direction) but no clicks. They look brand new and certainly didn't look as if they were another customers returns that had been resold, for example, and they both had undamaged inspection stickers on them. I'll have a closer look when they're off the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 So, I managed to refit the suspension (much quicker job this time, thankfully) and rise the lower spring seating. I guaged the height by taking a guide from the old fixed dampers. And the new adjustables weren't faulty, just a little stiff on first turn of the tensioner. I initially set them at 7 clicks out of 18 and had a drive and then had to back it off a bit. Think I ended up at 6 clicks which is firm but drivable. Next job is the tracking which is being done tomorrow, and I will ask the garage to lower the front end slightly as it sits up a bit. Anyway, thanks for all the tips and advice it was very helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted August 16, 2015 Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 Good news Jerry. Another job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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