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Churchill hub puller and bearing puller available in North Tyneside. Plus Seat options.


Jeffds1360

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Just done a deal on Ebay and got the pair for a good price.

Available to any local members or anyone willing to pay return postage :)

Now..... how to use the puller !

the wheel studs on my old half shaft are out so I'll have to re-fit and tighten them in. I guess I can use wheel nuts to pull the splines back in and then.... do I use the wheel nuts on the puller? Assuming I fit them backwards to get a flat face?

Wish me luck for tomorrow when I attempt to find what caused that dumph dumph dumph last year :)

I've swapped the sring compressor for a bearing puller if anyone need a loan.

Edited by Jeffds1360
Thread drift to seat options
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that top unit is  for pulling the bearing/trunion housing off the drive shaft   the shaft bush is the little bit in the centre 

Ive always managed to drift the shaft out of the bearing hsg , with a big vice and a club hammer  and just bounce it all rounds the workshop  ha 

note Colins pic shows an anti rotation bar , something yours wont have 

Pete

Edited by Pete Lewis
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32 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said:

?? so I have only got half of it??? What is the top bit all about?

The top is used for splitting the hub . I’ve not used this part as not applicable to the mk2 Vitesse with doughnuts 

Paul 

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Oh well. Learning curve.

The half shaft is off the car as I fitted a replacement that has had only 20 years use.

I have 'bounced' my original around the garage numerous times, resulting in a strained shoulder and a damaged elbow!

It is not something I need to do but am seeing it as a challenge.  If I get the hub of I will consider new bearings as required and keep it as a spare. Hope the axle is not scored!

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What I found, The Hard way!, is that the base of the puller MUST be bolted flat to the hub to prevent distortion of the hub flanges. My puller was constructed from a Thick Pipe flange, 2" scaffold tube and a very large nut. Welded up. Extremely "industrial" but worked.

image.thumb.jpeg.8c9a29515d19aa68bcc44cf0c9d399d6.jpeg

Pete

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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

 ..live in hope one day  might give us a decent web shop

I can appreciate the amount of work involved taking or sourcing photos of shop items for sale, but if we are to have a club shop for members to support, every item needs a decent photo and description. The other main suppliers do it, fleabay and Shamazon do it for most product, but having gone through the agro of second guessing what to search on, actually finding something that may or may not be the correct item, I want to look at it and read the spec before committing to buy. The club shop is a good resource but in this day of e-commerce needs a total rethink in presentation to survive. Even Padd*cks use the Rimm*rs or C*nley sites for visual reference. Bet they don't try the shop site. Lack of presentation is losing the shop trade. I know this because it's lost mine on numerous occasions due to.....can't find, can't see, description poor (search on bearing puller, description, "works in conjunction with hub puller" ---really), postage too much. Yes, I know you can phone and negotiate postage but then why have an on-line shop. It just doesn't work for me.

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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Colins pic shows an anti rotation bar , something yours wont have 

Picked up a large stilson at an autojumble, when such things where permited, works well as an anti rotation device on my hub puller.

Regards

Paul

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I'm thinking of putting the half shaft in my bench vice, nipping it by the trunnion  I do not have a suitable socket for the hub puller but have an ancient box spanner that fits. I need to find a decent bar to fit in this.

I also need nuts so I'm going to Jack car up and use all 4 from the f/o/s.

I can see a large hammer being used as I do not have a long bar

My only worry is damaging my nuts :(

I'll get back in a couple of hours (wife away for a few days and house work and prepping T comes first)

edited to say.... it is such a faff taking the chrome hub caps and trims off, that's why just one wheel off to get some nuts  :)

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Well. Waste of time. Took an hour plus just to insert the wheel studs! Damn spines would not line up so cleaned in and out and eventually they pulled in.

Put the shaft in vice and attached puller. Nipped up, put box spanner on and......no bar I had would fit in turning holes, ended up using a large screwdriver!....started slipping,  tighten vice... still slipped.  Tighten to max available....still slips.

Time for T with a 3 wheel car!

20210514_152342.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said:

Well. Waste of time. Took an hour plus just to insert the wheel studs! Damn spines would not line up so cleaned in and out and eventually they pulled in.

Put the shaft in vice and attached puller. Nipped up, put box spanner on and......no bar I had would fit in turning holes, ended up using a large screwdriver!....started slipping,  tighten vice... still slipped.  Tighten to max available....still slips.

Time for T with a 3 wheel car!

20210514_152342.jpg

You need and impact wrench for this one 

Paul 

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9 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said:

Ok Paul. Cheers. Will the electric one I got for my wheel nuts do?

Showing below 

20210514_162224.jpg

Yes being mains powered it should have enough NM . mine came from Lidl and 330nm  

Paul 

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56 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said:

Put the shaft in vice and attached puller. Nipped up, put box spanner on and......no bar I had would fit in turning holes, ended up using a large screwdriver!....started slipping,  tighten vice... still slipped.  Tighten to max available....still slips.

That's why the original version had that bit that Pete refers to as an anti-rotation bar... you're turning against the vice as opposed to turning against the axle.

Surely if you're clamping the trunnion housing in the vice it shouldn't slip?

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