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Bell housing oil leak


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Just noticed an oil leak on my 1500, got it up on the ramp and its leaking from the small hole at the bottom of the bell housing. I thought at first it could have been running down and dripping there as its the lowest point but i cleaned it and physically watched it forming and dripping from this hole.

Theres no smell to it so it appears to be engine oil rather than gearbox oil

After a bit of reading it seems as though theres some sort of pin in there? What is the purpose of this and does anybody have any idea what the process of sorting this is?

 

Thanks.

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aha    a jiggle pin 

its just t split pin and allows the   oil to drip off rather than run all over the place 

certainly its not essential and wont help the leak    do seriously check the back end of the rocker cover is not leaking and running down 

iif you have to pop the gearbox off there are a few  possibles for engine oil at the flywheel end  

the small test is good and engine oil is normally blackish   gear oil is clearer 

ep 90 does pong pf cats pee  an overfilled gearbox with a scroll front seal will leak out your clucth hsg hole 

1   crank oil seal

2  core plug end of camshaft 

3  rocker oil feed plug in corner of the head

4   rocker gasket 

check the easy ones first

if in doubt a good puff of talc powder will show a trace 

Pete

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Could check that the crankcase breather system is working correctly and its not pressure forcing more oil out? Remove rocker cap and see how much pressure there is - long shot but worth checking....

Also engine oil level? Has this leak just started or just gradually got worse?  

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Theres been a slight leak for a while which appeared to be coming from the sump gasket, it was only slow but when i moved the car today i noticed a fair bit more so got under it and saw it coming from this hole.

Its unusual as i havent done anything mechanical on it for a while and i havent drove it for ages either. The only change iv made recently is adding a brake servo in, but surely this wont be causing it?

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29 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

aha    a jiggle pin 

its just t split pin and allows the   oil to drip off rather than run all over the place 

certainly its not essential and wont help the leak    do seriously check the back end of the rocker cover is not leaking and running down 

iif you have to pop the gearbox off there are a few  possibles for engine oil at the flywheel end  

the small test is good and engine oil is normally blackish   gear oil is clearer 

ep 90 does pong pf cats pee  an overfilled gearbox with a scroll front seal will leak out your clucth hsg hole 

1   crank oil seal

2  core plug end of camshaft 

3  rocker oil feed plug in corner of the head

4   rocker gasket 

check the easy ones first

if in doubt a good puff of talc powder will show a trace 

Pete

So am i right in thinking that the oil is leaking from elsewhere into the bell housing?, in which case is there only a certain place it can be coming in from?

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59 minutes ago, johny said:

well its just possible but the much more likely source is the crankshaft rear seal☹️

🤦‍♂️ the perils of owning classics eh?

So now to figure out if its best to hire a ramp and drop the box n work from below or remove the passenger seat, tunnel and take the box out from above and get at it that way?

Anybody experienced this and if so which way did you attack it?

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if you get the gearbox off from down under you will be the first ,it wont happen  sorry but 

its  seats out tunnel out and remove from a supported engine from inside the car 

do double check the easy leaks first  before you jump at worst case scenario's

Pete 

 

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In our cars the box has to come out from inside as the chassis prevents bottom access. The good news is that with the cover off and seats out its not a bad job as the gearboxes are relatively light and small especially without OD. You'll probably need a helper for the last stage to save any risk of a strain...

While the gearbox is out obviously its a good time to do any necessary jobs on it. If theres no faults then I would at least consider replacing the oil seals at each end and checking the tightness of all bolts. Also the clutch should be inspected and changed if more than a little worn.

However before jumping into all this ensure youve discounted all other possible sources and causes....

 

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Box will only come out from above. Either that, or engine/box in one. I reckon I can get a box out by myself in a few hours without too much hassle. Getting the H frame/tunnel etc is the faff.

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Its been a long day, iv had the box out before so im not sure why i suggested working from below 🤦‍♂️

In regards to checking easier options first, would the ones listed above result in oil in the bell housing? (core plug end of camshaft, rocker oil feed plug in corner of the head etc...

Because i know for certain it is leaking out of the hole at the bottom of bell housing as opposed to running from elsewhere...

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so long as you are happy its really not tracing down from easier common leaks i just advocate 

do the simple checks reliably first not the other way round 

ive seen guys remove the gearbox to no avail and it was rocker cover ...it happens 

its in your hands please let us know how you get on 

Pete

 

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I've been trying to track a leak on my Vitesse, dripping from the rear edge of the sump bottom of the bell housing. There was a tiny amount of oil weeping from the oil filter tracking along the edge of the sump around to the rear edge. That's been cured but there's still a small amount of oil coming from somewhere. 

I started from the rocker cover down. I do have a small leak rear corner of head, spark plug side, but no evidence it's tracking down between the block and back plate.

So in my case it is either leaking from the rear of sump gasket, or possibly from somewhere on the back of the engine. Its a tiny leak, but want to cure if before the interior goes back in.

Suffering with bad back last few weeks so works been on hold, as there's a fair amount of work involved removing a sump on a Vitesse.

 

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Most likely coming from sump which is relatively easy to work on but could be the joint between block and back plate especially around the area of the crank alloy rear seal carrier. This carrier can be problematic in two ways: its sump fixing holes can strip easily or its not sitting flush against the backplate and both issues are complicated to cure. Perhaps you can find out more with a clean and dusting of talc....  

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sump off on a 6cly in car can be a real fight   and refitting with all the push shove angle dangle that goes on will probably make 

a  new  sump leak very likely .

have you checked the breathing and look inside the rocker cover i may have a flame trap gauze over the breaather hose outlet stub 

you need to prise the retainer and wash the gauze in petrol or similar 

they are a bit of a hidden and  blocked up unkown 

worth a look 

Pete

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On 15/05/2021 at 21:43, Pete Lewis said:

so long as you are happy its really not tracing down from easier common leaks i just advocate 

do the simple checks reliably first not the other way round 

ive seen guys remove the gearbox to no avail and it was rocker cover ...it happens 

its in your hands please let us know how you get on 

Pete

 

Just got it nice and warm and double checked its 100% coming from inside the bell housing and unfortunately it is. Wanted to make sure before i pull the box but looks like theres no avoiding it. Going to replace rear crank seal and il let u know how it goes.

Is there anything else thats worth replacing while iv got the box off?

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well how well does the gearbox run? At very least you can tighten all bolts and perhaps replace the oil seals at both ends? Obviously the clutch can be looked at including the thrust bearing plus a check made for any sign of leak from the slave cylinder seal...

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20 minutes ago, johny said:

well how well does the gearbox run? At very least you can tighten all bolts and perhaps replace the oil seals at both ends? Obviously the clutch can be looked at including the thrust bearing plus a check made for any sign of leak from the slave cylinder seal...

Gearbox has already been rebuilt so all that "should" be sound 🤞. Will make sure i check the other bits thanks

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when its off the culprit will be more obvious  for a  engine or gearbox leak

the finger and sniff test is pretty reliable between ep and engine oil but theres nothing better than a look see

yes let us know how you get on 

Pete

 

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13 hours ago, chrisbladen said:

Gearbox has already been rebuilt so all that "should" be sound 🤞. Will make sure i check the other bits thanks

Just thought you could also check the wear on the gearbox input shaft support bush that is fitted in the end of the crankshaft. With the box off you should be able to pull the bronze bush out and see how much play it has on the spigot...

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29 minutes ago, johny said:

Just thought you could also check the wear on the gearbox input shaft support bush that is fitted in the end of the crankshaft. With the box off you should be able to pull the bronze bush out and see how much play it has on the spigot...

Thanks mate. Is the spigot bush fairly easy to replace? Just had a look and they am only pennies so i might just pick 1 up when i go for my oil seal

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Sometimes theyre a bit tight in the end of the crankshaft so you might need to hook it out or I believe some people use a grease gun to pump in and push it out. Its probably ok as they dont seem to wear much and arent tight from new but worth checking as cheap...

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I would have thought that if it is the rear crank oil seal it's an engine out job as the sump would realistically have to come off as it bolts to the seal housing, It could be done from underneath but probably harder. My personal opinion would be to keep an eye on it accepting that it is a Triumph and likes to mark it's territory (assuming it's a small leak)

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23 minutes ago, DanMi said:

I would have thought that if it is the rear crank oil seal it's an engine out job as the sump would realistically have to come off as it bolts to the seal housing, It could be done from underneath but probably harder. My personal opinion would be to keep an eye on it accepting that it is a Triumph and likes to mark it's territory (assuming it's a small leak)

Iv got it up on alexs so if the sump needs to come off then i can work underneath aswell anyway. 

When the oils warm it is running out fairly quickly, plus at the minute i havent fully re installed all the interior so if it needs doing id rather do it now before i install it all that wait a few months and have to take alot more out to get to the box

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Its true the sump bolts go into the seal housing which has to be removed to replace the seal and the risk is that the sump gasket will be damaged during removal.

Also I see in my manual that the seal is supposed to be centralised with a special tool before bolting down the housing however I didnt use one and my seal has been fine...

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