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Clutch pedal spring


Roger K
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agree its a fixed length as standard   .....unless someones fitted an adjustable one 

do check the pedal shaft is not seizing  on both pedals 

its important that both C & B pedals fully return and give a small rattle fit endfloat to the push rod 

or the master cyls wont recuperate properly  ( easy to finger a check under the bulkhead gaitors )

Pete

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That's interesting - the old pushrod was an adjustable one, which had been (badly) welded solid at some time.  The new cylinder I bought is a genuine Girling one which came with an adjustable pushrod ready fixed, of the correct length.  I guess I just adjust it to get the pedals level, just off moving the pushrod.

The new springs from Canley are fine, same shape as the old but actually a bit stronger (maybe just newer).

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As Pete says whatever you do the pushrod mustnt be under pressure after any adjustment. In other words you must ensure it can still be rotated easily and freely with your fingers before you put the rubber cover back on...

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I may not have been clear enough - I have an adjustable master cylinder pushrod, the clutch slave cylinder pushrod is fixed.  I can't rotate the adjustable master cyl pushrod as it has a clevis fork to the pedal.  So, the advice is to set the length of the master cylinder pushrod to just before the slave cylinder pushrod goes tight - i.e. can still be rotated easily?  The master cyl piston may be slightly compressed to achieve this.

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if you compress the master cyl you leave the reservoir port open   thats asking for low pedals 

the whole idea is the reservoir refills the system with foot off  so a small free play/end float of the pushrod is essential 

or the tail seal that has to block the reservoir  as soon as you apply pressure  will supply the reservoir not the brake circuit as the port is left open 

Pete

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