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Acid dip suspension components.


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Hi,

I know many of you out there included myself are faced with the challenge of cleaning suspension components!

Im asked many of times as to the best way, easiest way and quickest way

We use a number of methods here, on this vertical link we used acid dipping thought i would post a couple of pictures of the results.

Worked very well and has the added bonus of freeing up that seized lower bolt!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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  • 4 weeks later...

Standard Brick cleaner works ok its around 10% pure hydrochloric acid takes a weekend to soak and work, but is easy to buy from any diy store.

This is 32% works extremely well is very strong and needs to be handled well! will clean to bear metal in minutes, Not so good on aluminium it will melt a piston!

A full Chassis Dipping Process will soon be under way I will post the results. I'm hoping that the full external and internal will be cleaned.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi,

 I would have thought that if you left ferrous parts in 10%  hydrochloric acid for a couple of hours it would dissolve?

 

Do you not mean Phosphoric acid, as the part you have cleaned is still in one piece and there appears to be a grey phosphate coating on the part.

 

Cheers,

Iain.

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Have used brick cleaner many times .Very effective- and very cheap. It will cut through lots  rust leaving a grey surface pitted where the rust has been.

It makes many of the  expensive, so-called rust treatments look  ineffective.

 

It is ,as you say hydrochloric acid( not phosphoric acid) some refer to it by  the ancient term muriatic acid

 

Problem can be rusting again very rapidly if not washed and dried speedily. Washing with di-onised water afterwards then hot air gun and a wipe with Jenolite (which has posphoric  acid  in it) , dry off again.then prime. 

 

There are obvious  dangers from handling  -(but no more than when you're cleaning bricks) so vinyl gloves and  proper eye protection- and have an "escape  plan" in your head - to irrigate skin eyes  with water and or milk if mishaps do occur.

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Any of the acids will make you grizzle if they get into a cut or other wound (weld splat burn typical!)

And yes, eyes are the one thing that really do not heal well. Brick acid unpleasant on the hands, but wash it off fast and all is good.

Eyes, I would always use water, and wash out for several minutes with running water and then get it properly checked straight away. 

25 years teaching in a science lab and I have had just 2 cases of kids getting acid in the eye, both having taken safety specs off before putting stuff away. Both got heads in the sink, and eye irrigated by yours truly. Both had no lasting effects (though amazingly both sets of parents sent letters thanking me for what I did!)

 

Now, Sulphuric acid is much nastier stuff, and hydrofluoric acid gives me the creeps.

 

 

Back to cleaning though. I have brick acid sitting about. Good for derusting (and descaling the kettle too) and I also have some 80% phosphoric acid. So I wash off, and spray with diluted phosphoric acid. Leave for a bit and rinse. Seems to work. Bit of etch primer and bobs your uncle.

 

If acids worry you, electrolysis is safer, check out youtube etc. And it is very gentle. Just don't use stainless or galvanised steel for the sacrificial electrodes. And keep it all well ventilated. 

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That's right. hydrochloric acid is agressive stuff - it's the chlorine - and even the vapour will corode metal nearby, making fascinating "Mould" growths on aluminium as it destroys it. Personally, I'll stick to phosphoric and leave hydrochloric for others to clean their patios!

 

Richard

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Thinking about it, I would say electrolysis followed by phosphoric acid is teh way to go. The electrolysis easily removes large amounts of rust with no effort except a wash and brush off after. No harmful chemicals (I know people worry about that issue) and all you need is a big bucket etc, a battery charger, some scrap steel and some washing soda.

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