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My car won't start


Andrew
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Hello

OK let me try to explain. Originally my car was overheating, changed head as that was the suspect problem all ok now have done about 100 miles with no problem. When first starting the engine it ran rough for approx 5 miles and I suspected it was just cold. Got warm and ran well. Stopped the car for 20 minutes and it started to run rough again. Now cannot get the engine to fire at all. I have taken each spark plug out and held against engine block and their is a spark on all four. fuel is also getting through but I am a little concerned that plug four is wet with fuel and the other three are dry and very black which I am told is to rich a moisture. I have followed the instructions in the Haynes manual re mixture setting on the carb IE three turns down on the brass adjuster under the carb from a level with the piston base. One thing I have noticed when I try to start the car if it does fire and my foot is flat on the floor on the accelerator it will not pick up revs. Have taken all plugs out cleaned and tried again nut no luck. Please any suggestions would be welcome

Regards

Andrew

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Do you have a compression tester? £10 or so on Ebay. You're looking for the bores to be all the same, a wide variation and you have a problem. Could be head gasket or rings.

 

One plug wet and three dry could be a manifold gasket leak. A vacuum tester will show you if the vacuum is fluctuating.

 

Foot to the floor and no change could be timing or no vacuum for advance and retard.

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Hi Peter.

My suspicions are all pointing to the carb. My plugs are all firing but when removed all are very black. Started the car yesterday and it just gave lots of loud backfires and horrendous black grey exhaust. I have sent the carb off for a overhaul to a specialist so when it gets back and I fit it I will let you know. Funny thought it was fine until I had my cylinder head changed I suppose the carb was dislodged so any dirt in the system might have found its way in to the jet. Any way thanks for your help you did put me on the right path I will keep you posted

 

Regards

Andrew

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Good thought Pete but I have electronic ignition so no condenser it is now a process of elimination when I have my carb back and it still will not go I am going to replace my ignition system and go back to points as have a refurbished distributor which I have never used. What are you thoughts on points versus electronic ignition.

Andrew

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the main idea's are  points  wear and need setting as a service item,  all need  a dash of oil down the spindle and some in then base plate for the top bush .

 

   mechanical points are just a mechanical switch with variable performance , bounce, arcing,wrong gaps , wrong dwell

 

electronic is a much sharper crisp electronic switch made by a semiconductor ( transistor )in my days more reliable accurate twit proof switching

never needs and service other than the  some oil down the spindle and base plate .

 

 

choice of who's you use is all down to costs and preferences  be it club shop, aldon, H &H ,accuspark   etc.

 

Pete

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Hello all

I have cracked it. Let me tell you more. All the rough running,back firing,car not starting issues . Well the last ditch attempt was on Saturday. I removed the cheap electronic ignition ( not sure I should mention the make just in case someone is going to sue me for libel) installed new points and condenser made sure all the plugs leads were pointing to right plug started the car and it has now done 50 miles over the weekend not one single missed beat and it idles bang on, the engine does not even rock on the mountings.

So if anyone asked me about electronic ignition I will tell them of my tale of woe. Does anyone else mistrust this electronic ignition question? And is there a 100% reliable electronic system on the market

Thanks to everyone who helped me.

Regards

Andrew

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Hello all

I have cracked it. Let me tell you more. All the rough running,back firing,car not starting issues . Well the last ditch attempt was on Saturday. I removed the cheap electronic ignition ( not sure I should mention the make just in case someone is going to sue me for libel) installed new points and condenser made sure all the plugs leads were pointing to right plug started the car and it has now done 50 miles over the weekend not one single missed beat and it idles bang on, the engine does not even rock on the mountings.

So if anyone asked me about electronic ignition I will tell them of my tale of woe. Does anyone else mistrust this electronic ignition question? And is there a 100% reliable electronic system on the market

Thanks to everyone who helped me.

Regards

Andrew

 

The clue is in your post 'Cheap Electronic Ignition', buy one of the quality items such as Aldon or Lumenition and they are fit & forget. My Aldon ignitor gave over 10 years of faultless service and I would say most people that fit these have similar experiences. The others are cheap for a reason.

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there was some repots f the stator magnets not being equi spaced about the rotor so timing of each pot was varied,  no clues to back this up 

from which magazine did the tests , but similar was the condensers which only had 300mm of foil inside not the 3 mtrs needed so useless at buffering the 

the  points switching 

 

Ive used aldon and lumention and agree with darren.  years of trouble free

 

whilst they are specified to run on 6 to 18v many misfire if the battery is in a low state and a ballast is fitted drops the primery below the operational window of the unit then ,  you need a 12v feed to the unit, ( you dont have to bypass the ballast feed , just a lone feed to the lecy unit,)

 many fried units are down to high currents demanded from low voltage ballasted systems being bypassed to 12volts and not changing the coil  so the current is doubled,

 

so if you by pass  the ballast  ...change the coil 

with a lone feed , leave ballast in place 

 

 

 

always 6-8v 1.5 ohm coils primery

 

always  12v   3 ohm coil primery 

 

 

 

Pete

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