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Common causes of engine running-on?


1969Mk3Spitfire

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Occasionally, not always, my engine will run-on (for only 1 rev) after ignition is turned off. The engine is not above normal hot when it does this. There isn’t (shouldn’t be) any carbon build up in carbs nor combustion chamber. I use normal unleaded with additive. Idle is just under 1000 rpm, smooth running. Acceleration and running is normal. I don’t drive it hard. I’ve not yet checked ignition timing.

Likely  culprit?

 

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Couple of things, the octane could be the problem and a lead substitute wont help that so either a higher octane fuel is needed or an octane booster. I use Millers VSPe with regular fuel and its very good at preventing any run on.

The other thing is the spark plugs your using. What colour are the electrodes as if very white you could consider using cooler running ones so that they are less likely to cause ignition without a spark...

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some permanent magnet blower motors act as a generator when you swich off so the engine gets some back feed   power till the blower  free wheels to a stop

when forst introduced we had to ad a diode to kill the generation , on some trucks the ram effect would power the petrol engines with the ignition off.

that was a fair while ago 

Pete

 

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Many thanks to you all, much appreciated.

I'll certainly look at Millers VSPe additive.

The plugs are NGK BP6ES and No 1 and No 4 probably look a tad lean. Picture attached.

I've not checked the timing and I'd appreciate any tips.  Check static or dynamic? It doesn't look easy (or safe) to get a strobe close-in. Haynes says 6 deg BTDC, static.

 

Spark Plug June 21.jpg

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just use ears ,  with it idllng  slacken dizzy clamp and turn the dizzy a small amount advance will speed up retarding will reduce idle  

so advance a little and test run it is not pinking under load ,  what fuel do you use  it really needs 97+ or better and advance to give fastest idle but back it off form best as that will be too much advance 

lean and retarded gives very hot plugs and bits of carbon deposits that become a glow plug 

Pete

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I agree with the comments above; with my Vitesse running on occurs either because the timing is too advanced or the mixture is too lean. 

With a compression ratio of 9.75:1 (very slightly higher than standard) I've never found the need to run on super unleaded nor to use any additives. 

I'd start with checking for air leaks on he inlet side (wear in throttle spindles and emission valve are prime suspects), get your mixture right, then experiment with different timing settings on the road. 

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as these cars were made for running on 100+ ron  5* fuel   thats surprising  when the cars were designed  95ron 2* fuel was for side valves and motor mowers 

with a high CR you cant be getting the best from the engine 

i dont see the point of increasing th CR then running on low grade fuel   surely all a bit counter productive  ???

 

Pete

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4 hours ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

Spark Plug June 21.jpg

Certainly not running cold and if it was a BP5ES I would recommend a 6 however as it is think its better to try the other suggestions before considering a 7. The cooler you can get your engine to run also reduces the chances of run on and this of course is a combination of the engine conditions mentioned plus the efficiency of the cooling system.... If you let your engine tick over a while before turning off does that help? 

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@johny - interesting thought to let it idle a while before turning off. Not tried it but will.

Thanks also for commenting upon the state of the plug. To be honest, I’m delighted that Nos 1 and 4 looked so similar. In 1976, when I last has a Spitfire, tinkering with the carbs was a weekly event. My current car seems more stable.

Over run is not really a big issue and it only does it intermittently.  I suspect low grade fuel is the biggest culprit.

Read the comments re timing with interest. I don’t think I’ll touch it as it runs fairly well. It sounds like getting the timing right is as much an art as a science so I’ll leave well alone.

@johnD - it is, if course, we’ll trodden territory and before posting I tried to use the search function but to no avail. It’s always good to hear anecdotes from those with lots of experience and a will to share. 

 

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Are those plug colours suggesting too weak?.  After a cruise at around 3000 rpm for a good few miles (doesn't feel like it's running weak) and a plug chop, mine are a pale grey.

I have heard that modern fuels give the grey colour, rather than brown?, though my plugs do give a darker/browner colour when at lower revs and also more stop and starts.

Dave   

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I know were talking sparkplugs, mixture & run on, my 68 Vitesse Mk2 has run on for the 51 years I've owned it & how many miles I've driven to check the plug colour I'd hate to think.

I used to stop the run on by stalling the engine in gear using the clutch! around 5 years ago I gave up and fitted a solenoid to de-pressure the inlet manifold etal later emission reduction practice, ie solenoid shuts when ignition switched on and vents to atmosphere when ignition is switched off, there's a small filter on the solenoid vent. I use the Lucas solenoid but would prefer the all metal Ford type, I'll eventually find one.

The downside it's another thing to check when the engine won't start ie has the solenoid shut!

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On 14/06/2021 at 17:20, Pete Lewis said:

some permanent magnet blower motors act as a generator when you swich off so the engine gets some back feed   power till the blower  free wheels to a stop

when forst introduced we had to ad a diode to kill the generation , on some trucks the ram effect would power the petrol engines with the ignition off.

that was a fair while ago 

Pete

 

 

On 14/06/2021 at 18:20, johny said:

yes I see modern cars have diodes for the electric radiator fans and AC compressors although I imagine today its to protect the electronics rather than prevent engine run on... 

I had that on both spitfires that have used modern ECUs to run. The backfeed from the alternator has to have a diode fitted, as there is just enough voltage to run the ecu. When I first fitted it, the solution was to press the brake pedal, the lights were enough to kill the voltage. I imagine any fan could do the same. But with the alternator issue the car will just run until the fuel is all gone.

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23 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

well black is rich  white is lean any colour in between providing the insulator is clean dosnt mean much other than its about right 

Pete

Seems like sage advice related to 50+ year old automotive engineering technology, thanks.

Took the car out for a drive earlier today.  Almost identical route and conditions to Monday.  No over run when I turned-off the key.  Is day-to-day variation one of the appeals of the marque 😃

 

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