Bulkhead to Chassis Stripdown

[t-stag]

Continuing saga of my Mk2 Vitesse Convertible stripdown.

The rear tub and bonnet have been removed from the chassis. The front bulkhead has had everything stripped off it. Separating it from the chassis is proving difficult. Mr Rust fought me with the rear tub, same with the bulkhead.  The front 2 (painted) bolts came off with some help from a nut extractor. The RHS had one 11/16 nut at the bottom and one 13mm bolt at the bottom, these both eventually came off, although the remaining bolt is rusted solid between the bulkhead and chassis. The LHS had 2 11/16 nuts, both of which snapped off, leaving 2 rusted bolts again. The amount of dirt that has fallen out of the chassis is enough to start a garden centre!

Plenty of WD40 on the rusted bolts and both sides slightly jacked up to add some pressure. Will leave it for a couple of days. Any other suggestions please?

Steve

[Colin Lindsay]

The bulkhead has two bolts at the front, two per side, and a row of self tappers across the centre outriggers; probably these last have been removed when the tub was removed. If they're all removed then jacking would be my advice; spread the load with some good wooden baulks and jack up under the floorpans. Once you've jacked it a few good whacks with a rubber mallet or similar in the area of the offending bolt might free it off, but plenty of penetrating oil - NOT WD40 which is only a water displacement fluid - should help.

[Badwolf]

Just a general thought. What is WD40 good for? It's sold as a catch all, lubricant, penetrating oil, etc etc

.....and what happened to WD1 to WD39?

 

[PeteH]

I finally resorted to a slitting wheel in my angle grinder. And ground the heads off the Self Tappers.  Once they where all removed. The Tub`s could be separated using a "fox" wedge. There will be a seal strip between the two halves which I found to be a very effective as an adhesive!. There are 2 Bolts on the Rear Axle Mounting, (on the Herald) which can be overlooked?.

WD40 evaporates quite quickly, hence it`s use as a water dispersant. The Old "Plus Gas" is my "go to" product. But I have used a Diesel and parrafin mix, before to-day. Auto Transmission Fluid is very effective too.

The use of Diesel to clean just about anything, in the days before PPE. Is what I blame for my occasional flare up of dermatitis!. I go through Nitrile gloves at an horrendous rate these days.

Pete

[GrahamB]

I was told that the manufacturer decided to develop a water dispersant.  The first formulation was not upto expectation so they re-formulated and made a second batch.  This continued until they were finally satisfied with the formula for the dispersant, on the 40th variation.  It was then marketed as WD40. So WD1 to WD39 never went into production.

[Colin Lindsay]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

I've looked it up to see what the 'official' records say: Water Displacement 40th formula (not War Department 1940 as some have claimed!!) 

[Badwolf]

So, you !earn something every day.

Now on to POR-15. POR=Paint Over Rust, but 15? 15 microns? 15th attempt? 

[t-stag]

WD40 didn't have any effect on Mr Rust. All 3 bolts were cut off with a Reciprocating Saw. The front bulkhead has now been lifted clear of the chassis.

[Dick Twitchen]

13 hours ago, t-stag said:

WD40 didn't have any effect on Mr Rust.

It won't, you need a penetrant not a dispersant.  Plus Gas usually works for me and for big stuff a soaking in diesel; it frees anchor shackles.

Dick

[PeteH]

43 minutes ago, Dick Twitchen said:

it frees anchor shackles.

😁🤣 Yesssssss!. But a big Gas Axe is quicker!.  (but then it was a 250.000ton DW? Bulk Carrier).

Pete