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Rebuilding 150 CDSE


Adrian

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I'm surprised there's none in the kit, you should also have the sprag washers (SPRAG, great word!) shown in the diagram directly above the arrowed part, together with the screw further down they hold the needle assembly in place. You take the screw out, tap the the needle assembly, (NOT on the needle) and the sprag washer flies out never to be seen again. :(

My "O" rings need replacing, a top up on one doesn't last a month. I think toping up is on a 3 month schedule? 

Rimmer's call it a retaining washer, but I think it's a SPRAG :lol:

sprag.PNG.23d083373d9e7caccc73698cc84ff22c.PNG

Doug

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Considering its a complete rebuild kit then it should be included, they charge enough.

Onto the Jet, how tight are they? My vice doens't open far enough to do the 'socket' pressing, do they need some heat to expand the alloy (I'd have thought any heat would preferentially expand the brass!). Would it be best to take it to the garage?

Cheers

Adrian

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12 minutes ago, Adrian said:

Considering its a complete rebuild kit then it should be included, they charge enough.

Onto the Jet, how tight are they? My vice doens't open far enough to do the 'socket' pressing, do they need some heat to expand the alloy (I'd have thought any heat would preferentially expand the brass!). Would it be best to take it to the garage?

Cheers

Adrian

I used an old jet with a small hammer to remove and set the new jets . The jet is tight as you would expect but you soon get to know how much hammer pressure is required 

Paul

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Doug I saw the sprag, the video on the 175 rebuild showed him removing it to get to the o ring. Very good video. As I haven't got them in the kit either I might see what condition they are in to re-use.

So a drift to knock out and the old one to knock the new one in with?

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Hi Doug

I decided to go to Burlens direct, maybe the Rimmers kits are actually more complete hence the higher price. Disappointed in Burlens as they are supposed to be No 1. The kit I got was their CDRK8. 

Just by way of update, I drifted out the old jet this morning using an appropriately sized socket and used a long socket on the rear of the new jet to drift in the replacement. Got it to 102 thou of the 100 though spec, not sure if I should try to get to the 100 thou, could be a lot of back and forth! 

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dont know  , not played with spindle seals for too many years back  

i wonder if your bodies have been bored and sleeved or something to make things less than std.  

or its aftermarket well it nearly fits parts 

the brass insert is that orig or some upgrade  i dont recognise it 

but thats not a surprise  ha !

Pete

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Based on the gt6 and vitesse workshop manual the small slot in the face of the brass insert is an original feature to allow the removal of the seal. Maybe like mars bars as time has gone on everything is getting smaller!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all. This is probably a strange question about a nonservicable item. I can’t find any threads or entries in the manuals. Basically should the dash pot damper assembly be loose or should the sting clip be tighter to the base?

C6427A6C-C951-402F-AEE4-2C71993D235E.jpeg

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Thanks everybody for your words of wisdom. I put the carbs back on and have tentatively turned the key after manually priming from the pump. Took a while to fire but initially very uneven but stayed alive long enough for me to adjust the idle and get it warm. Used the hose method to balance, if I've done it right its nice and easy! One thing I noticed straight away was it idled at lower revs much more evenly and lower than I could before (settled around the 800 rpm) and the rev counter was steady rather than flicking through a range of 500 rpm or so. 

Next job is to reinstall the throttle linkage and probably take it for a spin! Although first have to sort the accelerator cable that has frayed since installing and can't fit back into the clamp!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right so all complete and went for a very hot shakedown run BUT forgot to put oil in the dash pots. Now I might be wrong but it’s to dampen the piston lift to limit over fuelling? Either way I filmed the stuttering/shaking and failure to Rev up smoothly when hot. Carbs currently set up neutral and balanced with the hose mechanism. So what’s wrong?

 

 

 

 

 

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the dashpot damps rapid rise and richens out flat spots when accelerating 

it wont cause the stall but will affect acceleration

with all the changes are you sure the pump is supplying enough fuel volume 

rubber slivers get everywhere 

sorry can down load the video 

Pete

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

the dashpot damps rapid rise and richens out flat spots when accelerating 

it wont cause the stall but will affect acceleration

with all the changes are you sure the pump is supplying enough fuel volume 

rubber slivers get everywhere 

sorry can down load the video 

Pete

Hi Pete

No idea why i can't post video any more probably some incompatability from apple to microsoft. So basically pressing the accelerator there is a very stumbly/stuttery response which is increasingly difficult to build revs as the engine gets hotter (fine initially when its cooler). The stumbling even causes the stearing column to shake. i'll have another go at a lower resolution video.

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its sounds like you have fuel starvation  

i still hazzard a guess you have rubber slivers

do make sure no gasket or filter is covering any carb front face ports

you have located both diaphragm lugs  so when you look down the piston(top off) the two holes in its base face the engine ???

Pete

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  • 1 year later...
On 20/07/2021 at 23:08, Adrian said:

Hi Pete

No idea why i can't post video any more probably some incompatability from apple to microsoft. So basically pressing the accelerator there is a very stumbly/stuttery response which is increasingly difficult to build revs as the engine gets hotter (fine initially when its cooler). The stumbling even causes the stearing column to shake. i'll have another go at a lower resolution video.

Apologies to jump on an old thread but this is exactly what I'm getting. Did you find a solution at all? Mine runs fine cold and same as yours when heats up.

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