Pete Lewis Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 it s a pretty basic requirement and its daft not being in the kit top up is as and when but at 50 miles you have a leaker 500 miles would be better Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I'm surprised there's none in the kit, you should also have the sprag washers (SPRAG, great word!) shown in the diagram directly above the arrowed part, together with the screw further down they hold the needle assembly in place. You take the screw out, tap the the needle assembly, (NOT on the needle) and the sprag washer flies out never to be seen again. My "O" rings need replacing, a top up on one doesn't last a month. I think toping up is on a 3 month schedule? Rimmer's call it a retaining washer, but I think it's a SPRAG Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 +1 for its a SPRAG normally found under the bench when clearing up or lost in the grass Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Considering its a complete rebuild kit then it should be included, they charge enough. Onto the Jet, how tight are they? My vice doens't open far enough to do the 'socket' pressing, do they need some heat to expand the alloy (I'd have thought any heat would preferentially expand the brass!). Would it be best to take it to the garage? Cheers Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 12 minutes ago, Adrian said: Considering its a complete rebuild kit then it should be included, they charge enough. Onto the Jet, how tight are they? My vice doens't open far enough to do the 'socket' pressing, do they need some heat to expand the alloy (I'd have thought any heat would preferentially expand the brass!). Would it be best to take it to the garage? Cheers Adrian I used an old jet with a small hammer to remove and set the new jets . The jet is tight as you would expect but you soon get to know how much hammer pressure is required Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Adrian, No heat required, tight, but not that tight. Small hammer and a drift will do the trick, but watch out for the flying sprag! If you're not confident take to the garage, a few minutes work for them. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Doug I saw the sprag, the video on the 175 rebuild showed him removing it to get to the o ring. Very good video. As I haven't got them in the kit either I might see what condition they are in to re-use. So a drift to knock out and the old one to knock the new one in with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 Adrian, Yes, I've reused old ones. I would also complain to whoever sold you the kit, they are certainly pictured in the Rimmer kit. Having said that 2 "O" rings and 2 sprag washers will cost less than their postage! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 Hi Doug I decided to go to Burlens direct, maybe the Rimmers kits are actually more complete hence the higher price. Disappointed in Burlens as they are supposed to be No 1. The kit I got was their CDRK8. Just by way of update, I drifted out the old jet this morning using an appropriately sized socket and used a long socket on the rear of the new jet to drift in the replacement. Got it to 102 thou of the 100 though spec, not sure if I should try to get to the 100 thou, could be a lot of back and forth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 Adrian, Naa! Sounds good to me. I think Rimmer's use the Waitrose business model, reassuringly expensive. Well done. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 if the sprag is loose a nip in the vice to flatten it a bit will rejuvenate the grip i have a Aldi box of many many 0 rings none fit the strombergs one day they will be useful Pete and stick with the 0.102 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 2 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: I think Rimmer's use the Waitrose business model, reassuringly expensive Doug - Wasn't 'reassuringly expensive' the tag line for Stella Artois? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 Just a quick check. The replacement spindle seals do not fill the cavity of brass holder. It does carry the spindle firmly when inserted. Is that ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 26, 2021 Report Share Posted June 26, 2021 dont know , not played with spindle seals for too many years back i wonder if your bodies have been bored and sleeved or something to make things less than std. or its aftermarket well it nearly fits parts the brass insert is that orig or some upgrade i dont recognise it but thats not a surprise ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2021 Based on the gt6 and vitesse workshop manual the small slot in the face of the brass insert is an original feature to allow the removal of the seal. Maybe like mars bars as time has gone on everything is getting smaller! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted July 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 Hi all. This is probably a strange question about a nonservicable item. I can’t find any threads or entries in the manuals. Basically should the dash pot damper assembly be loose or should the sting clip be tighter to the base? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 4, 2021 Report Share Posted July 4, 2021 no its allows it to float and act as a valve what you show is perfect Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted July 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2021 Thanks everybody for your words of wisdom. I put the carbs back on and have tentatively turned the key after manually priming from the pump. Took a while to fire but initially very uneven but stayed alive long enough for me to adjust the idle and get it warm. Used the hose method to balance, if I've done it right its nice and easy! One thing I noticed straight away was it idled at lower revs much more evenly and lower than I could before (settled around the 800 rpm) and the rev counter was steady rather than flicking through a range of 500 rpm or so. Next job is to reinstall the throttle linkage and probably take it for a spin! Although first have to sort the accelerator cable that has frayed since installing and can't fit back into the clamp! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 get a push bike brake cable far better and cheaper than the awfull T cables on sale long enough to make two may need a solderless nipple so now a trip to local bike shop Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted July 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Right so all complete and went for a very hot shakedown run BUT forgot to put oil in the dash pots. Now I might be wrong but it’s to dampen the piston lift to limit over fuelling? Either way I filmed the stuttering/shaking and failure to Rev up smoothly when hot. Carbs currently set up neutral and balanced with the hose mechanism. So what’s wrong? IMG_3099.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 the dashpot damps rapid rise and richens out flat spots when accelerating it wont cause the stall but will affect acceleration with all the changes are you sure the pump is supplying enough fuel volume rubber slivers get everywhere sorry can down load the video Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted July 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: the dashpot damps rapid rise and richens out flat spots when accelerating it wont cause the stall but will affect acceleration with all the changes are you sure the pump is supplying enough fuel volume rubber slivers get everywhere sorry can down load the video Pete Hi Pete No idea why i can't post video any more probably some incompatability from apple to microsoft. So basically pressing the accelerator there is a very stumbly/stuttery response which is increasingly difficult to build revs as the engine gets hotter (fine initially when its cooler). The stumbling even causes the stearing column to shake. i'll have another go at a lower resolution video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 its sounds like you have fuel starvation i still hazzard a guess you have rubber slivers do make sure no gasket or filter is covering any carb front face ports you have located both diaphragm lugs so when you look down the piston(top off) the two holes in its base face the engine ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt6j Posted October 24, 2022 Report Share Posted October 24, 2022 On 20/07/2021 at 23:08, Adrian said: Hi Pete No idea why i can't post video any more probably some incompatability from apple to microsoft. So basically pressing the accelerator there is a very stumbly/stuttery response which is increasingly difficult to build revs as the engine gets hotter (fine initially when its cooler). The stumbling even causes the stearing column to shake. i'll have another go at a lower resolution video. Apologies to jump on an old thread but this is exactly what I'm getting. Did you find a solution at all? Mine runs fine cold and same as yours when heats up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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