Bob Horner Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Anyone had any issues with these? I’ve got them on my TR4, spitfire and GT6. After about 4 years one failed on my TR4. I replaced and worked ok since. Bought one for my GT6 a couple of years back and it didn’t work out of the box. Replaced without issue. However the replacement has now failed after a couple of years but not many miles. I have rewired it so it’s got an override switch (which is a must in my experience!). They are expensive but work well when they do work. Always wired via a relay. Just wondering about people’s experience before I shell out £80 for another. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 I have a revotec fan on a spitfire, but not the switch. Fan is fine... However, what variety of switch is it? If the type that fits inline in a hose, why not swap just that part for something like this, and then souce a switch with suitable on/off range. (this hose adaptor is from t7 design, and £32. Cheaper versions on ebay, I just bought 2 with small 1/8npt tapped holes for £8 delivered, (I drilled out and retapped them to 3/8bsp) or m14 versions are available complete with switch for about £20, probably less with searching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 If its the adjustable type where the control is all mounted in a hose coupler I think thats a pretty harsh environment for the electronics. A design which is likely to last longer is where the sensor is separate from the control like this Craig Davies unit which is remote so kept cooler... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Several club members here use the Davies Craig Controller to control both their fan/s and the variable speed electric water pump, the're totally happy with the unit and the controls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 +1 for Davies Craig controller and in line temperature sensor. Works fine on my Vitesse with a Spal fan. FYI this controller is capable of controlling two fans and a 'worry' switch. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 On my GT6 I tried a Revotec fan controller with my SPAL fan, but found that when I set it at a 'switch on' point I was happy with, it would keep the fan running an excessive time. I now use a fixed point switch as per Clive's image, which seems to works well. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 On my Porsche 924 I just had a bimetallic sensor I stuck in the radiator where the return hose was and it switched the fan on and off. Worked for years before I sold the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 26 minutes ago, Ian Foster said: On my GT6 I tried a Revotec fan controller with my SPAL fan Ian, I had problems with the 'poke in the rad fin' temperature sensor so I fitted the in line hose sensor and it cured the wayward temp control. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Did it just not work or did it work unreliably? Bimetallic is about as simple as you cant get... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 1 hour ago, DVD3500 said: Did it just not work or did it work unreliably? It was the probe that came with the DC controller, the problem was it seemed to be very inaccurate in sensing the temperature so it became a 'worry'. Couldn't be bothered to pfaff about so bought the DC in line and sensor. The old rad probe on my DC controller just unplugged and the new sensor plugged straight in. It seems as though it was designed for the probes to be changed and/or replaced if faulty. We'll done Aussie designers! Another upside with the DC in line joiner is it now has two NPT holes, one for the probe and the other can be plugged (comes in kit) or you can buy an air vent to get rid of pesky air locks. Unfortunately T7 don't at the moment sell the vents but I've advised them and they are looking to get them from DC. Iain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 https://www.revotec.com/acatalog/Electronic-Fan-Controller-Threaded-Fitting.html had one of these fitted for about two years and it’s now failed. I’ve put a standard fan on, and it runs much better. Just need a radiator cowl now. hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Always a good discussion at club brunch's the Davies Craig controller brigade vs the KISS lot (me) who use a simple bi-metallic temp switch for the on/off tapped into the thermostat housing which activates a relay which switch's the fan on. The kit was brought locally off ebay for $20, and included the temp switch, fused relay, heavy duty elect overload switch (bi-metallic), good lengths of wires, and brass adapters of various sizes. I subsequently brought a range of temp switch's so we could experiment with cut in and off temps, these were ex Hong Kong for around $6 ea, all brass casing. I pulled one of the bi-metallic temp switch's apart to check it's quality, I was surprised very well made, well insulated, and good connections, I reassembled it and repotted/.sealed the case and I've used it just to prove it still works. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p7rider Posted February 6, 2023 Report Share Posted February 6, 2023 Slightly off topic my inline revotec unit has been eaten away by galvanic corrosion. I think it has a bad earth . Now I think I want to fit another inline switch , but a standard preset one. What temp range would be recommended for use in the bottom hose , on 1500 spitfire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 This is the set up used by Triumph for late US model Spitfire 1500 and the fan switch, item TKC 5021 was located on the left side of the radiator top tank with operating parameters of: Off 87ºc and On 92ºc. Hope this helps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 13 minutes ago, johny said: radiator top tank with operating parameters of: Off 87ºc and On 92ºc. Switching temperatures for bottom hose will be lower while those for in-head or thermostat housing will be a bit higher. And there is considerable debate as to which is best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 Have used an adjustable in hose Revotec fan controller in the bottom hose of my Vitesse for some years without problems. I also fitted, at the same time, an override switch and a warning light which comes on when power is supplied to the fan. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 My Revotec inline controller failed last year and I replaced it with a simpler, fixed range unit from stoney-racing on eBay. I went with a "95°C...for 30mm hose ID" one and it's worked fine for me. Cost just £24.95 (rather than £75 for a Revotec), the needle hovers just below the 3/4 point on the gauge, summer and winter, and if I ever need to change it I just need a new sensor rather than the whole thing (which I then adjust, once). I picked the 95°C sensor based on their listing advice: "In most cases the on temperature of the switch should be around 10°C to 15°C higher than the vehicles rated thermostat opening temerature". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 Hello All This how I did Spitty years ago 2 fans and a duel radiator switch and it works a treat even when touring Spain in the heat I have a centre off over ride switch with leds Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 Wow! Full width radiator, two cooling fans, and TWO oil coolers? Are you planning a holiday in the Sahara next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 37 minutes ago, NonMember said: Wow! Full width radiator, two cooling fans, and TWO oil coolers? Are you planning a holiday in the Sahara next? The one is a fuel cooler as I run ITB EFI The one fan rarely comes on but was useful last year in Spain in about 40 degs The one that comes on first blows over the exhaust side to help bring the under bonnet heat down Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted February 7, 2023 Report Share Posted February 7, 2023 Our Mk2 Spit uses a single 12in pusher fan with the power thro a relay with both primary and secondary power supplies fused. Fan activation is by a preset temp sensor in the thermostat cover, think from memory with cut in at 85C and cut out 80C, and manual over ride switch, also a tell tale light if fan is on. I initially brought a aftermarket kit for the control costing $25 locally which included the relay with fuse all wiring with and temp sensor oh also a thermal cut out switch. I subsequently brought 3 additional sensors one at same temp setting as original kit plus 2 at a higher temp 94C cut in their cost less than $25 incl postage ex Hong Kong. No issue with the quality. The system maintains mid range on the temp gauge even in 40+ temps and the only strange thing I’ve found is that even on a moderate temp day when the fan hasn’t come on, stopping at the shops and when returning to the car the engines latent heat has risen and turning the ignition on (after the paff of turning the immobiliser off) the fan comes on before starting the car, but goes off when mobile. A bit disconcerting! A Series 3 XJ6 Jag we had in the 80’s would on a very hot day continue with the fans on for up to 20min after turning off the car locking and walking away it used to get some very strange looks and comments you’ve left the engine on! Several club members here have used the Local Davies variable controller where they can program one or two fans control plus electric water pump, they love playing a with the variable speed controllers to get the optimum set up but Will They Ever Find It, but hey their happy. I sometimes wonder if a couple of manual switch’s and using their brain as the controller might be simpler! Only joking. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p7rider Posted August 18, 2023 Report Share Posted August 18, 2023 After changing the adjustable revotec unit for a bottom hose fixed switch. On 95 off 87 i started at 85 off 80. I find my fan now comes on just past half way on temp gauge. I used to set tge adjustable one to cone on at 3/4 . Also I fibd ut switches on and off very quickly, sometimes in seconds. I wouldn't have thought the water cooks 8 degrees that quickly. I wonder if the flow of water through the radiator is not even . As in some enters the top and quickly goes straight to the outlet rather than through the matrix? If i fit a higher range switch so it comes on at 3/4 in the gauge will it really be too hot. Should I go by my gauge or temperature on the switch. Many thanks a long explanation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 18, 2023 Report Share Posted August 18, 2023 Dont forget your fan should only be running on idle or very slow movement so the flow of coolant through the rad tubes is low and the cooling effect of an electric fan pretty large. This causes the temperature of the coolant to drop quite drastically which of course is the main reason youve gone to electric in the first place. Where does your gauge sit when driving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p7rider Posted August 18, 2023 Report Share Posted August 18, 2023 Midway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 18, 2023 Report Share Posted August 18, 2023 47 minutes ago, p7rider said: Midway Seems reasonable so your current fan start setting might be too close to the driving temperature and its runs when hitting a hill on a hot day (=no point). Your temperature gauge will go up and down depending on the engine load and conditions so all your aiming for is to prevent the radiator cap from lifting in all normal operating situations👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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