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Posted

Driving me nuts, like someone on here!

How the heck do you wedge the nut when it spins in its little cage?

Any hints please, from those who have experienced this problem. :)

Posted

Try jamming it with a long screwdriver between the nut and the cage side. Make it easier with plenty of penetrating oil, but it's just going to take patience. The other option is to grind the head off the bolt and remove with the bolt shank in place, then remove that on the bench. 

Posted

Wow! That was quick. Yes, thanks Colin.

Need 3 hands re the screwdriver and the wife 'hurt'her hand helping me off with the hard top. She is also huffed as her seat is uncomfortable. but I'm working on that.

I'll give it a good soak and try later.

Must go and read the latest news on Mark's thread :(

Posted

i fear it will be cut the head off and attack the remains in the kitchen !!!! so the wife can help  

ive blocked the  area  51  nightmare multiple posts   theres a problem there

easy to up your post count if you persistently write to yourself 

Pete

Posted

Uuuurgh. Doubt I can get my grinder in :(

Need a sharp hacksaw blade then. Or a bloody sharp chisel!

bugger it ( and area 51)

Good point re post count. He will be blackbelt Dan whatever before you know it....

ok. Thanks guys. Might just go for a drive to settle my addled brain!

Posted

I have used various items to try and wedge the bolt so it doesn`t rotate,screwdrivers,chisels,rods etc,even tried to compress the cage a bit with a chisel.

I think the original nuts were square so it can be possible to get something either side of it,(i used 4 inch nails).lots of penetrating fluid to free it up as well.

Steve

Posted

👍 sounds like a plan.

now I'm stuck on b old/italics/or underscores. 

???

cannot get out of it??

or can I....yes. tap twice :)

big learning curve (life!)

thank you.

Posted

I had success by drilling through the cage thing into the nut and then trying to free. Plenty of oil, plusgas heat etc, it all helps. Use a drill that you class as sacrificial. Maybe for the other problem hang, drawing and quartering.

Posted

Can you reach in with the nozzle of a welder, and fix the nut in the cage?  That's what Triumph should have done, the cheapskates.

There are a million penetrating oils - and WD40 is NOT one of them - but I've been impressed by "Innotec DeBlock".  Not cheap but most effective.  And I own no shares in them!

John

Posted

Please note I have not tried this, However IF you can get some access to the cage, after soaking in a decent "Release fluid". Is it worth trying to fill the cage with something like the old "Araldite". When mixed that stuff used to go like concrete in about 10min, and may prevent the nut from turning in the cage?.

Pete

Posted

tie a chain round a lamp post  and reverse  at speed   then everything  comes off  

as apprentice in experimental a bent Mk4 truck needed pulling out so the foreman (who had a dislike for  spotty kids) 

had me tie the truck to a pillar thro the headlamp hole  and we ripped the whole front off    happy days 

Pete

 

Posted
19 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

tie a chain round a lamp post  and reverse  at speed

I understand they have very expensive Jigs and Hydraulic rams Now-a-days in place of that?.🤣.

Serious thought though, it was a well used method of making "bent" rally cars drivable, especially when the "recovery" couldn`t get at it in a forest stage. I even used it to get my sons Imp somewhere near straight after he "clipped" a roundabout near Farnborough. Some "new" suspension and steering bits and he drove it until the MOT guy failed it. (but not on the front suspension!).

Did we really do stuff like that back in the dark ages?.

Pete

Posted
2 hours ago, PeteH said:

Is it worth trying to fill the cage with something like the old "Araldite". When mixed that stuff used to go like concrete in about 10min, and may prevent the nut from turning in the cage?.

Pete

That's a thought. Handy for removing stuff but not sure about the replacement afterwards, although if it holds long enough to remove it should hold well enough to be refitted... and who is going to see?

Posted

yes yes..... I have some J B weld.

I shall mix that and squirt some in. No welding equipment available or burning gear either I'm afraid.

and I'm learning to use the 'different type types' just like Mark.....but I will not shout :)

Posted
2 minutes ago, JohnD said:

PeteH,  that would be Araldite "Rapid".   The original stuff takes hours to go off.

I refuse to incriminate myself, But let`s just say my supplier back then was not in retail? and it came in un-branded containers marked resin and hardener? with long code numbers.

Pete

Posted
13 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

my dad used to used the old araldite to mend his teeth

I once used it to hold a crown in place over the weekend. Tasted horrible but did the job. These days I'd worry about being poisoned but back then it was all about looks... :)

Posted

You lot never told me the bracket was slotted!!!!

You just need one bolt out, with the other 'slack' and you can tap the overider off!!

Need to make note of that. :)

 

20210701_111251.jpg

Posted

Pete, I've just been reading that post that wanders into 42 and ends up with 54 and lots of 9's..........

A different type of laugh and head shake that I got with zone 51 or whatever it was!

You lot are nuts and I love it!

Nut, bolt, screw and washers... I know that joke!! :)

My 'new' overider does not sit as straight or proud but it has no dints

 

16251424529085859933638609001210.jpg

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