Gearbox Overdrive removal - Vitesse mk2

[Paul H]

Attempting to remove gearbox and overdrive from my Vitesse . All bolts , ancillaries removed from the gearbox and OD and the manual says lift and remove from inside . This was for gearbox , needless to say I can only lift an inch or so and can’t clear the prop shaft . I then read to remove overdrive and gearbox take out the whole engine . Is this correct ? If I remove the prop shaft completely will the whole unit come out inside the cabin ? 
Paul 

[Clive]

Not sure how far you have got, but here are some ideas...

(1) the prop is fully disconnected from the box? Sometimes the flanges stick together and need a wack to seperate them. Plus is the tunnel cut back enough. I presume so to get it in, unless that happened as combined engine/box.

(2) the engine needs to be tilted up at the back, so you can slide the box back enough that the first motion (input) shaft can come out of the back of the crank and then the clutch. the tilting is done using a jack under the rear of the sump (+block of wood) but watch the radiator etc. Easy to overdo it. And you may need to release the heater air distribution box for extra clearance. Not strictly necessary, but it may help.

(3) No you can remove the box by itself.

[68vitesse]

It should come out but engine needs jacking up so gearbox overdrive unit clears transmission tunnel, unit weights a least fifty kilos, tried it this way once in my Vitesse, never again. I remove engine and gearbox plus overdrive in one unit, it depends on how much help you can get or the equipment to hand, I have a chain hoist attached to a trolly running on an I beam across the garage.

Gearbox overdrive unit always split out of the car.

Came in third, 

Best of luck

Regards

Paul.

 

[PeteH]

Page 109. Haynes, says exacty that. So it must be "do-able". My question would be does the slightly longer overall of the Overdrive adversly affect it?.

Pete

[Pete Lewis]

never removed  as a engine and gearbox as yet , they always come out ok.. heavy 

do keep fingers away from the tunnel   i use a length of timber and lever under the g box against the floor 

give it a good lift and wiggle and out it pops 

if the clutch splines are rusted to the disc that can hamper withdrawl 

still  you've got till thursday     Ha  

Pete

[trigolf]

11 minutes ago, Mathew said:

Its heavy and awkward more so with the overdrive.

It's definitely do'able as one unit (gb+od). Done it a few times myself. I 've found taking passenger seat out helps - gives a bit more room to wrestle it out through that side. It's easier still if you have a mate -one person underneath, as Clive says, managing trolley jack under the box and one person inside doing the hauling about. I'ts a heavy old bas...d !

Gav

[Paul H]

Thanks all , I’ll support and lift the engine for starters . I’m on my own but can get help with the final wiggle out . The passenger seat is out plus the passenger door and removed the sports steering wheel . The od box is currently sitting on top of the rear bracket so lifting the engine should give the clearance I need . Now I know it’s 50kgs I know what to expect . The od solenoid is still in place so need to lift enough to remove the lower screw and remove before the manhandling begins

Paul 

[Clive]

I think the box complete is nearer 30kg. I can get one in/out by myself using a metre long bar and some blocks of wood. It is rather lighter than a spitfire OD box (they have an iron bellhousing. Ouch)

For replacing a pair of 5/16 2-2 1/2" (or thereabouts) long bolts with the heads cut off, and fitted either side at the top of the block are a very useful and time-saving addition. You can hook the bellhousing on, and move the back of the box around to align everything, and takes the stress off the input shaft. Honestly, it transformed my refitting of gearboxes. 

[Pete Lewis]

ive never removed the solenoid prior to removal  you may be better to remove the rear mount then rearward

drag wont get hung up on clearing the mout which does get in the way 

single handed removint the two bottom bolts can be a swine as spanner access is limited and the heads turn 

tip tack weld the bolts in the mount on refit then do nuts up underside

 

 

[GrahamB]

I have only removed an overdrive gearbox from a Spitfire, single rail and J type.  I had to completely remove the propshaft to get enough clearance to disconnect the input shaft from the clutch.  Yes, it is very heavy!  I would also recommend cutting the heads of a couple of bolts as suggested by Clive to aid refitting.

[Clive]

19 minutes ago, Mathew said:

Thats a great idea, would a slotted end on them for a screwdriver help with bolt removal?

Yep, I forgot to mention that.

A couple of years ago I had a clutch release issue with a T9 box. It went out and in 5 times in 2 weeks. I didn't bother first time with studs, but then made a pair as I could see how it was panning out. Took under 5 mins to make them, saved loads of time and backache. 

A friend reckos one stud being a bit longer than the other helps too, get teh bellhousing on one, the other is easier, but I haven't found getting it on a pair a problem. The huge advantage is the wiggle factor and it all being "jigged" to slide in. 

[Pete Lewis]

i always have odd bit of timber to aid visualise  the gap is parallel just to sight the gap variance 

many boxes ive been to see are foiled buy not getting the hsg and back plate parallel  a quick look.   jack it up and ye hah its in 

just a simple way to avoid  the eyes have it    no they dont   

Pete

 

[Colin Lindsay]

Don't forget to protect the floors and sills when dragging it out inside the car - it's a heavy item and will eat paint or doortrims / seals. Taking the preferred door off completely might be an option beforehand.

[Paul H]

13 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Don't forget to protect the floors and sills when dragging it out inside the car - it's a heavy item and will eat paint or doortrims / seals. Taking the preferred door off completely might be an option beforehand.

Passenger door is off and passenger seat out already . Jacked up od enough to remove solenoid though plunger is visible , can this be removed ? 
Paul 
 

[Pete Lewis]

why do you want ot remove it for  when you do get it free its a heave ho and get it into your boot  

but is it all out yet ???

Pete

[Paul H]

1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

why do you want ot remove it for  when you do get it free its a heave ho and get it into your boot  

but is it all out yet ???

Pete

The od is jammed on top of the rear bracket as it’s started to separate at the bell housing / engine . Raising the engine has given some height BUT not enough to give clearance . Jack is trying to raise the whole car now so need to loosen the front mountings 

Paul 

[Pete Lewis]

its quite  normal to lift the car as the jack takes on the weight of the engine   so lift away 

i did suggest removing the rear support and braket , but if the bolts rotate holding them one handed is a nightmare 

Pete

[Paul H]

It’s out with the help of a 3ft crowbar 

Paul 

[Pete Lewis]

hooray   success .............  please drain the oil out 

bring it all   see you thursday 

Pete 

[Paul H]

36 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

hooray   success .............  please drain the oil out 

bring it all   see you thursday 

Pete 

All ready 

Paul

[thescrapman]

1 hour ago, Paul H said:

All ready 

Paul

Mmmmmm EP90 tainted biscuits.

lovely

[daverclasper]

On 27/06/2021 at 17:04, clive said:

For replacing a pair of 5/16 2-2 1/2" (or thereabouts) long bolts with the heads cut off, and fitted either side at the top of the block

Do they thread in, or just a push fit Clive?.

Cheers Dave

[Pete Lewis]

the 5/16x24 is the thread of the existing clutch hsg bolts you are just making in effect a 2" /3"long stud to fit two of the threaded holes in the top back of the block

to act as a guide   you obviously have to unscrew them when the box is on to refit the orig bolts 

so a stud with a hacksaw slot cut across its end allows you to remove the studs with a screwdriver 

pete

[Clive]

57 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

Do they thread in, or just a push fit Clive?.

Cheers Dave

You wind them in about 6-8 turns so nice and strong. It is 2 of the top  threaded boltholes into the block. 

People foolishly try using a bolt to pull the gearbox into position, a VERY bad idea that can cause serious damage. Using studs lets you faff and fiddle until the box slides into position, then start with bolts.

[Colin Lindsay]

2 minutes ago, clive said:

People foolishly try using a bolt to pull the gearbox into position, a VERY bad idea that can cause serious damage.

Wrecks the thrust washers. Been there...