Paul H Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Attempting to remove gearbox and overdrive from my Vitesse . All bolts , ancillaries removed from the gearbox and OD and the manual says lift and remove from inside . This was for gearbox , needless to say I can only lift an inch or so and can’t clear the prop shaft . I then read to remove overdrive and gearbox take out the whole engine . Is this correct ? If I remove the prop shaft completely will the whole unit come out inside the cabin ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Not sure how far you have got, but here are some ideas... (1) the prop is fully disconnected from the box? Sometimes the flanges stick together and need a wack to seperate them. Plus is the tunnel cut back enough. I presume so to get it in, unless that happened as combined engine/box. (2) the engine needs to be tilted up at the back, so you can slide the box back enough that the first motion (input) shaft can come out of the back of the crank and then the clutch. the tilting is done using a jack under the rear of the sump (+block of wood) but watch the radiator etc. Easy to overdo it. And you may need to release the heater air distribution box for extra clearance. Not strictly necessary, but it may help. (3) No you can remove the box by itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 It should come out but engine needs jacking up so gearbox overdrive unit clears transmission tunnel, unit weights a least fifty kilos, tried it this way once in my Vitesse, never again. I remove engine and gearbox plus overdrive in one unit, it depends on how much help you can get or the equipment to hand, I have a chain hoist attached to a trolly running on an I beam across the garage. Gearbox overdrive unit always split out of the car. Came in third, Best of luck Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Page 109. Haynes, says exacty that. So it must be "do-able". My question would be does the slightly longer overall of the Overdrive adversly affect it?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 never removed as a engine and gearbox as yet , they always come out ok.. heavy do keep fingers away from the tunnel i use a length of timber and lever under the g box against the floor give it a good lift and wiggle and out it pops if the clutch splines are rusted to the disc that can hamper withdrawl still you've got till thursday Ha Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 11 minutes ago, Mathew said: Its heavy and awkward more so with the overdrive. It's definitely do'able as one unit (gb+od). Done it a few times myself. I 've found taking passenger seat out helps - gives a bit more room to wrestle it out through that side. It's easier still if you have a mate -one person underneath, as Clive says, managing trolley jack under the box and one person inside doing the hauling about. I'ts a heavy old bas...d ! Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Thanks all , I’ll support and lift the engine for starters . I’m on my own but can get help with the final wiggle out . The passenger seat is out plus the passenger door and removed the sports steering wheel . The od box is currently sitting on top of the rear bracket so lifting the engine should give the clearance I need . Now I know it’s 50kgs I know what to expect . The od solenoid is still in place so need to lift enough to remove the lower screw and remove before the manhandling begins Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 I think the box complete is nearer 30kg. I can get one in/out by myself using a metre long bar and some blocks of wood. It is rather lighter than a spitfire OD box (they have an iron bellhousing. Ouch) For replacing a pair of 5/16 2-2 1/2" (or thereabouts) long bolts with the heads cut off, and fitted either side at the top of the block are a very useful and time-saving addition. You can hook the bellhousing on, and move the back of the box around to align everything, and takes the stress off the input shaft. Honestly, it transformed my refitting of gearboxes. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 ive never removed the solenoid prior to removal you may be better to remove the rear mount then rearward drag wont get hung up on clearing the mout which does get in the way single handed removint the two bottom bolts can be a swine as spanner access is limited and the heads turn tip tack weld the bolts in the mount on refit then do nuts up underside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 I have only removed an overdrive gearbox from a Spitfire, single rail and J type. I had to completely remove the propshaft to get enough clearance to disconnect the input shaft from the clutch. Yes, it is very heavy! I would also recommend cutting the heads of a couple of bolts as suggested by Clive to aid refitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 19 minutes ago, Mathew said: Thats a great idea, would a slotted end on them for a screwdriver help with bolt removal? Yep, I forgot to mention that. A couple of years ago I had a clutch release issue with a T9 box. It went out and in 5 times in 2 weeks. I didn't bother first time with studs, but then made a pair as I could see how it was panning out. Took under 5 mins to make them, saved loads of time and backache. A friend reckos one stud being a bit longer than the other helps too, get teh bellhousing on one, the other is easier, but I haven't found getting it on a pair a problem. The huge advantage is the wiggle factor and it all being "jigged" to slide in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 i always have odd bit of timber to aid visualise the gap is parallel just to sight the gap variance many boxes ive been to see are foiled buy not getting the hsg and back plate parallel a quick look. jack it up and ye hah its in just a simple way to avoid the eyes have it no they dont Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Don't forget to protect the floors and sills when dragging it out inside the car - it's a heavy item and will eat paint or doortrims / seals. Taking the preferred door off completely might be an option beforehand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 13 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Don't forget to protect the floors and sills when dragging it out inside the car - it's a heavy item and will eat paint or doortrims / seals. Taking the preferred door off completely might be an option beforehand. Passenger door is off and passenger seat out already . Jacked up od enough to remove solenoid though plunger is visible , can this be removed ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 why do you want ot remove it for when you do get it free its a heave ho and get it into your boot but is it all out yet ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said: why do you want ot remove it for when you do get it free its a heave ho and get it into your boot but is it all out yet ??? Pete The od is jammed on top of the rear bracket as it’s started to separate at the bell housing / engine . Raising the engine has given some height BUT not enough to give clearance . Jack is trying to raise the whole car now so need to loosen the front mountings Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 its quite normal to lift the car as the jack takes on the weight of the engine so lift away i did suggest removing the rear support and braket , but if the bolts rotate holding them one handed is a nightmare Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 It’s out with the help of a 3ft crowbar Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 hooray success ............. please drain the oil out bring it all see you thursday Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 36 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: hooray success ............. please drain the oil out bring it all see you thursday Pete All ready Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Paul H said: All ready Paul Mmmmmm EP90 tainted biscuits. lovely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 On 27/06/2021 at 17:04, clive said: For replacing a pair of 5/16 2-2 1/2" (or thereabouts) long bolts with the heads cut off, and fitted either side at the top of the block Do they thread in, or just a push fit Clive?. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 the 5/16x24 is the thread of the existing clutch hsg bolts you are just making in effect a 2" /3"long stud to fit two of the threaded holes in the top back of the block to act as a guide you obviously have to unscrew them when the box is on to refit the orig bolts so a stud with a hacksaw slot cut across its end allows you to remove the studs with a screwdriver pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 57 minutes ago, daverclasper said: Do they thread in, or just a push fit Clive?. Cheers Dave You wind them in about 6-8 turns so nice and strong. It is 2 of the top threaded boltholes into the block. People foolishly try using a bolt to pull the gearbox into position, a VERY bad idea that can cause serious damage. Using studs lets you faff and fiddle until the box slides into position, then start with bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, clive said: People foolishly try using a bolt to pull the gearbox into position, a VERY bad idea that can cause serious damage. Wrecks the thrust washers. Been there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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