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Mk2 GT6 assembling doors

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Hi all.

I'm about to assemble (from boxes) the doors, quarterlights, outer weather strip, glazing strip, winder mechanism, glass, lock, handles etc.

Has anybody got a recommended order and is the glazing strip supposed to be shorter than the weatherstrip?

Thanks for any help, suggestions and I welcome any tips.



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If I remember the sequence from my last rebuild start with glass down inside the door, fit the front quarterlight around that and gap it, line the glass up with the runner then fit the rear runner and align the channels so that it slides properly. After that fit the winding mechanism to door and slot it into the glass runners. Locks and catches are probably last depending on what access you have to them; although the outer door handle might be easier if fitted before the glass. It's also sometimes easier to fit the outer weatherstrip wile the glass is down inside the door, access is certainly better, then slide the glass up and past it.

Outer strip runs the entire length of the door; inner only goes as far as the quarterlight and in the earlier GT6 there's a chrome / silver strip runs from there to the front of the door.

It's not set in stone; others may have a simpler order of fitting.


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Fitting up these doors can be a most trying experience. There is no prescribed sequence but my way is as follows:

1) Fit the window winder mechanism noting for later reference how much adjustment is available in relation to the two setscrews that hold the center triangular mounting.

2) Fit door handles. locks and associated parts. Adjust for correct operation.

3) Fit quarterlight assembly with associated brackets (having first checked that felt runner is good). Using the many adjusting points lightly nip up with a correct gap to the windscreen frame.

4) Insert drop glass. Work running channel on to the wheels on the lift mechanism.

5) Insert rear drop glass runner (again checking that the felt is good).

6) It's now necessary to, with great patience, repeatedly adjust the quarterlight assembly, the glass and the rear runner to achieve nice running of the glass with everything in a good position with glass both raised and lowered.

7) Now to the glazing /weatherstrips. The 'book' method is to work from the outside of the door with the glass in situ using a hooked tool to pull the strips and their clips upwards onto the lips on the door skin. In practice this is not possible because most aftermarket strips are fatter than the originals.

7b) So: Note the position of the rear glass runner that was previously obtained. Remove runner. Work glass off the wheels of the lift mechanism and let rest in bottom of the door. The (outer) weatherstrip may need to be trimmed to length so that it is just the full length of the door. Where it overlaps the quaterlight assembly  it may need to be skinnied down to give the correct appearance. Place in position and push on clips with thumb from inside the door (not easy). The standard clips supplied may not fit depending on the thickness of the rubber. May need to source generic alternative.

7c) Much the same for the inner (felt) glazing strip. This only goes partway along the length of the door as far as the rear of the q-light assembly. Trim to length a/r. This time though put the clips on the strip first and then thumb in to position from inside the door. BUT: If your vehicle has the vinyl door capping this must be installed before fitting the inner glazing strip.

8 ) Put drop glass back on its wheels. Re-attach rear glass runner into former position. Wind glass up and assess position. Highly likely that another round of adjustment at all points will be required (tiresome).

9) Lastly install the stops to control upper and lower range of travel of the drop glass. The large felt covered bottom stops are pretty obvious. Not so obvious are the either two or four l-shaped brackets (held by No. 10 unf setscrews) which limit the movement of the arms of the window lift mechanism. Often go missing. The one which blocks the upward movement of the glass is crucial as without it the glass will push on the q-light frame upsetting the previously hard won adjustment.

Hope I've not missed too much out. In theory fitting up these doors is a simple procedure; In practice a great deal of trial and error is involved.

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9 hours ago, SpitfireGeorge said:

Hi guys, Is it possible to fit the outer weatherstrip first and then drop the glass in to the door? (Spit Mk3)


Whilst I do not know, I suspect it not to be achievable as the door rail holding the Rain Sheet will then not pass through?.


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On my GT6 Mk III I used a similar approach to that used by Chris above.  The tricky bit is getting the quarterlight and drop glass adjustment correct- I found that you needed to get the window to go up as far as possible to get a decent seal on the door seal at the top.  This was very tricky in the case of my car due to a lack of clearance between the rear top corner of the glass and the body work and also the top of the quarterlight and the A pillar.  I used many layers of masking tape to protect the new paintwork while getting the adjustment to the best compromise position!

The other issue with the door rebuild is retaining the front of the outer seal below the quarterlight.  Essentially you can't get the clips in place if the quarterlight is in place when the seals are fitted.  There have been a couple of posts and discussions on this in the past with possible solutions but I don't immediately have the references.  I used black silicon under the seal to retain it which worked OK until I fitted the extra seals on the A post (Pt no 612260) to see if they cut down wind noise.  These cause the quarterlight to flex when the door is closed which has the result that the front of the outer window seal works its way out of the gap between the door and the quarterlight after 5 or 6 door open close cycles.

Now building myself up to taking of the door card and liner and seeing if you can remove (or at least lift) the quarterlight assembly with the door glass in place to see if I can get some clips on the front of the weather seal.  This of course means that I will have to go through the process of getting the quarterlight adjustmet correct again although I hope marking bolt positions will help☹️

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Hello all

Just started doing the same job on my GT6 mk1, all the door bits came in a box, sorted the  assembly of all the working parts ok but my problem is getting a neat job on the weather sealing around the 1/4 lights any help on this will be appreciated also photos of the finished job if possibile.


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Ok, I've just done the n/s door and I can say it was a pig, mainly because I was stupid enough to fit new rubber to the window lift glass carrier and I used soap to ease its fitting, which with the aid of a couple of ratchet straps worked fine, but easy in = easy out and the bloody glass kept popping out of the rubber.... derrrr!

Anyway took it all apart, cleaned off the soap and refitted the glass to its carrier dry.

Now for the assembly:-

I fitted the winder mechanism loosely.

Clipped in the outer weather seal.

Gently slid the quarterlight assy into position and loosely fitted its fixings, it's a tight fit but just needs lots of care.

I carefully slid the glass down into the door and clear of the weather seal.

If, like me, you have the padded door capping you will note that the factory cut slots for the clips, I put some masking tape markers on the 'visible' side of the capping to ensure I fitted the clips in the correct places, then I positioned the capping in place and held it with a few strips of gaffer tape. Position so that the doorcard fixing holes are visible.

Next I fitted the inner felt seal to the door slot, it's bloody fiddly and the stupid little clips are a swine because they keep falling off, but eventually I get the strip to seat.

Now using extreme care, so not to dislodge the felt and weather seal, slde the glass into it's channel in the quarterlight and then lift it gently between the weatherseal and felt strip, pushing it into the slot as you do so.

Next I fiddled for ages to engage the glass runner with the lifting mechanism but finally in the two nylon rollers went.

Next I fitted the rear window channel, again with the fixings just finger tight.

When I was happy that everything was running correctly I nipped up the fixings just a little, then I fitted the top and bottom stops.

After that I moved onto the door handle and locks.

I haven't fully tightened anything yet because I'll probably need to adjust things to fit the door aperture but I won't be fitting the doors until I've finished the interior fit.

Hope this helps.


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the old trick with the seal clips is tie 12" of cotton to the clip so you retrieve it when it disappears somewhere .

and while pulling the seal clip tool/hook upwards tap the seal down with a bit of timber and  a small hammer 

this needs help as you have now run out of hands   

there are good and awful clips on sale for these seals and the seals can also vary in the thickness of the retaining lip

all adds to the fun 

dont forget the sticky plasters may be needed 


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