Captain Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi all, I want to improve the handling of a Mk1 GT6 Is it possible to convert a Mk1 rear axel and drivetrain setup to a Mk2/3 rotoflex type set up (with CV conversion). If so what would I need to do and what new parts would I need. Perhaps there is an article or thread someone could point me towards. Thanks Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 I have done exactly that to my spitfire. You need: Rotoflex spring. Pair of rotoflex uprights and all the gubbins Pair of GT6 rotoflex tie rods and brackets to the body/heelboard (and the reinforcers on the inside of the tub, they are further in than non-rotoflex ones) Obviously CV conversion kit and bearings etc Pair of lower wishbones Pair of lower wishbone brackets welded to the chassis. Brake backplates, hubs and all that. The parts book is your friend, the only mods are the tie rod brackets and the lower wishbone mount. Well, maybe handbrake..... roto handbrake setup is different, the guides are attached to the body and it does not use the chassis mounted guides. BUT it may be possible with teh CV's? I cant help as I have rear discs and bowden type cables (VERY effective) However, if you want a simple conversion, I would be using a very late GT6 swing spring and matching front ARB. Ultimately not quite as good as rotoflex, but much simpler, lighter and very little in it, having had both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Swing spring works wonders and is the simplest mod to make; although having said that I converted my Mk1 many years ago not because of any wayward handling, but because everyone seemed to say I should. I never found any problems with it but then on roads with a 70 mph speed limit maybe I just never tested it to the extremes. Try to get the proper rear spring; a Spitfire one I used originally bottomed out all the time until I fitted a genuine late Mk3 version which has been superb ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 I don't think it is speed where the handling is important, more the unexpected bend/roundabout/deer etc where you have to slow and turn rather quickly. When I had my early spit it went from a proper brown trouser car to being very sure footed. All for a (then) £10 spring and front ARB bought at an autojumble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Thanks for the detailed info Clive, and thanks to Colin for the more simple fix. I think I'll start to collect the necessary parts for the Rotoflex/CV conversion. Any further help and advice in relation to the position of the tie rod brackets and the lower wishbone mount mods would be great. I actually have a Mk3 chassis and body tub waiting to be worked on in my workshop. Should I just copy the position of the brackets and mounts from the Mk3? Thanks Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 On the tub there should be (not certain) dimples to locate the tie rod brackets for welding, otherwise copy a roto car. Be aware the brackets are mighty expensive. As my heelboard needed a few repairs I cut my brackets out and re-used them! The lower wishbone bracket position is on the canley classics website. When I did mine I discovered I had to check things carefully as the chassis was not quite as it should have been (from the factory!) but managed to get the correct position using body mount holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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