Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Firstly I'll admit wiring is not my forte, I can follow a diagram OK and the basics but know nothing about what widgets are available. Having twice taken off the bonnet and even after labelling struggled to get everything connected correctly (was much better the second time) does anyone have a nice multi plug type connector(s) rather than the bayonet type I have? It also looks pretty messy clipped under the ftont of the bonnet. Anything would have to be watertight and ideally be crimped rather than soldered connections as I don't have power where the car is. Cheers Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pimp my Vit Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/multipin-wiring-connectors-15-way-single I used these, you can also get them Screwfix/ Toolstation. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/quick-connectors-5-way-25-amp Any help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 42 minutes ago, Pimp my Vit said: Any help.. Thanks, the ones from carbuilder solutions look fine. What about tidying up the spaghetti under the bonnet, a cable sock? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pimp my Vit Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 This or cable ties I guess... https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=cable+tidy+tube&adgrpid=52946737197&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5uWGBhCTARIsAL70sLJCw1U3ql_AqPb4bsv0KxpjTGv8US7_q1NBKvwiYoOQbjsLj39ghC0aAjotEALw_wcB&hvadid=259084676843&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1006631&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14134226640304307303&hvtargid=kwd-302174813210&hydadcr=28150_1821052&tag=googhydr-21&ref=pd_sl_1ac4kygrgg_e Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Yes that's all I could find, phase one is the connectors! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 minute ago, Iain T said: Yes that's all I could find, phase one is the connectors! Iain I fitted the same , I think it was a 6 way or 8way Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 12 minutes ago, Paul H said: I fitted the same Paul, I like the tight pvc wiring cover. Was that extra material left over from........ Looks a lot tidier than mine☹️ Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/348 it’s a dry non tacky tape , brilliant stuff . Just fix the start and end with normal tape . I go 50% overlap Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 minute ago, Paul H said: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/348 it’s a dry non tacky tape , brilliant stuff . Just fix the start and end with normal tape . I go 50% overlap Paul I added the same connector in the boot Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Thanks, the wiring is something I must tackle as it's quite untidy. While I have your attention I want to have one main feed into a fuse box with say 6 individually fused outlets. I assume this is called a distribution board? I'll take a cable from the battery to feed the distribution board(?) then connect up the various added things in the car ie trip master, map light, afr meter (with separate switch) etc. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Bearing in mind I’m self taught . I approached the same issue and I have a ignition fed 10 way bayonet fused box and a second 10 way bayonet fused box , perhaps way over the top but I can allocate each circuit and when the fuse light goes on it means there’s a problem with the circuit . The second pic shows a close up of a 4 way box just to show what it looks like . The red light comes on when you have an issue . Don’t ask me how that works but it does . My brake light switch Disintegrated and I only found out when I saw the fuse light . I can revert the system back to standard if deemed necessary in the future The nut is the input feed and there are 2 tabs at each end for output feed I can send you the fuse box layouts if you need them Paul I used the opportunity to add relays to main, spots, dip. Horn, fan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Here is an old thread about fuse box replacement, a lot of us have done it. We all used the same 10 blade fuse box which also lights up when the fuse blows. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 And just to prove the saying, if I can do it, anyone can do it... https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2623-back-to-the-past-nose-to-tail-1972-spitfire-mkiv-restoration-upgrades/page/32/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Thanks all, another job that I've putting off and bugging me. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/distribution-and-6-way-fuse-box Is this the kind of fused distribution board I require? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 from what others have done on here that looks a bit over complicated and its a bit £££s for 6 fuses pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 This is the fusebox most of us used, it's from Vehicle Wiring Products, don't know if it's still available. It has room for 4 spares. Yes, they still have it £23.59 Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-52-fuse-boxes-fuses/c-122-blade-fuse-holders/p-358-led-fuse-box Or this with the output connectors on the side not rear. I need to take a closer look at the spaghetti to see how deep I want to go. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Yes, it's ideal for a GT6 or Spitfire, but maybe not a Vitesse? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 I currently have two fuse boxes, one with blades and the other with glass fuses. It's as I bought the car and both have side blade outputs. The glass fuse box seems to cater for the standard loom and the blade box for some (I can't fit all the gizmos) the extra equipment ie afr gauge etc. It would be nice to combine all into one larger blade box but I'll have to see what room I have. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A TR7 16V Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 On the topic of fuse boxes, when I swapped the dynamo on the Herald 13/60 for an alternator, mostly cos the regulators was failing to run a CD player when the engine was running, I converted the regulator box to one. When it was finished, the wiring to the fuse box was, as I remember, the same as to the regulator. Though that's only as I remember, and I doubt it was as original when I started. But with one of them alternators that look like a dynamo, it shouldn't be obvious it's been upgraded. I'm only using 3 fuses at the moment, so the 4ths there for some upgrade or other, like relays on the lights. If I do put relays in the lights, I'll put them out of the way under the dash. I'm aware of the issue of voltage drop in the run up from the battery and back down to the lights and the supposed axiom that they should go as close to the headlight as possible. But I would split the existing feed to the lights after the column switches, using the existing section from the switches to operate the main and dip relays and the existing section to the lights from the relay outputs. Then all I need is a feed from the fuse box to the relays and somewhere to mount them where they are accessible but don't show unless you look. This is what I've got in the Dolomite Sprint. I think it's a fairly neat solution if the idea is mostly to take the load of the lighting switches not to upgrade the front end to a set of daylighters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 These are also nice, cheap as chips, headlights on relays. 12V Car H4 Headlight Lamp Bulb Relay Wiring Harness Kit Socket Plug Wire UK | eBay db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 +1 for the headlight relay, but watch out for the rating of the fuse that is fitted. It appears to range between 10A and 40A depending on what is in the factory at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said: These are also nice, cheap as chips, headlights on relays. 12V Car H4 Headlight Lamp Bulb Relay Wiring Harness Kit Socket Plug Wire UK | eBay Back from a cake break 🍰 Erm, and apart from the obvious word description what is the point of this widget? At school I used to run in the relay, those black boxes don't look the same... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A TR7 16V Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 52 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: These are also nice, cheap as chips, headlights on relays. 12V Car H4 Headlight Lamp Bulb Relay Wiring Harness Kit Socket Plug Wire UK | eBay db Well the mods under the dash, as I outlined for future on the Herald, don't need a kit. All that needs is two relays and somewhere to mount them anywhere on the path of the existing cable runs to the lights (somewhere the wires can be disconnected or even cut), half a doz lucars (maybe some mating connectors if cutting's too brutal for ya), and enough thick (14awg) brown wire to feed the relays off the fuse/reg. box. Oh yes, and a good crimp tool - the years I have wasted for using one of them flat doings and the red/blue/yellow plastic sleeve crimp ons rather than a good ratchet crimp tool and uninsulated connectors with separate sheaths. Like I say, that's only good for unloading the light switches, not to upgrade the existing lights, which I find ok for what I want. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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