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Wiring tidying


Iain T
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The relay and the brown and blue striped wire arrived this lunch time and the jobs now done bar a tie wrap or so.

The spare spade (top right) on the master light switch that's in parallel with the permanent live feed:

IMG_20210703_131908.thumb.jpg.67de9fcd33ffbe8bca02f0c4c486a937.jpg

This may be the biggest problem in the project, as it needs a big terminal and a crimp tool for the job:

IMG_20210703_132018.thumb.jpg.62a430e4a9d801a15e138dc43b8c107d.jpg

The crimp tool I linked to before is what I used. It's two wires because I chose to run separate feeds to the two relays rather than a common one and a jumper.

This shows the completed additional loom:

IMG_20210703_153331.thumb.jpg.235755479ed8cd71100c348c4d79419a.jpg

The runs of thick and thin blue and white (main) and blue and red (dip) wires are a bit longer than perhaps would be ideal. That's because I had to mount the relays to the left of the radio/USB player or move the lighter/power sockets. 

This shows the relays wired up and ready to connect:IMG_20210703_160521.thumb.jpg.0066dfb213002662510654223e46eb1a.jpg

This shoes where I'm going to splice into the existing wire for the dips:IMG_20210703_162238.thumb.jpg.03344fb24e1bbc577cdc940e447e18f9.jpg

And this shows the dip relay feeds spliced in:

IMG_20210703_163039.thumb.jpg.425b05a07bd58141464e996ffb793f37.jpg

This is where the mains are to be spliced:

IMG_20210703_162238.thumb.jpg.03344fb24e1bbc577cdc940e447e18f9.jpg

This is the set of mains and dips spliced in, with just the wires to tuck away above the column:

IMG_20210703_163644.thumb.jpg.86fa329da85a42c34280f968329f0782.jpg

And this is the two relays mounted under the front of the dash:

IMG_20210703_165135.thumb.jpg.1af2888e694cc85a8d6fd8f76f660b86.jpg

Finally, the pile of shame - the terminals that went wrong:

 

 

IMG_20210703_165225.thumb.jpg.ac655d35e5d6e41c3314d06f1d944750.jpg

Why's the editor adding this last one and not letting me delete it?

IMG_20210703_163639.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

PmV,

To be honest I'm not quite clear what the Vitesse headlight set up does :wub: are the outer pair main and the inner dipped, or are all 4 main and dippable?  Having said that you realise my level of Vitesse competence, however, I don't see why one kit shouldn't do it, but you're going to have to re wire the connectors.

At the East Berks meeting last night the only Vitesse owner said he has off to join Windsor Area as they had Vitesses and NO GT6s! :lol: 

Doug

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On a standard Vitesse 

dipped = outer 

main = outer and inner 

I modified mine 

dipped = outer and inner . With a remote blade fuse which is removed for mots as it’s illegal to have 4 dipped  lights 

I have 2 relays which are situated by the dynamo , dipped and main 

Paul

 

 

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I had all 4 on my Vit6  it always passed the mot as they only checked the outer then inner 

never all 4  

relays and halogens   makes it very illuminating   !!!

just getting 12/14 v to the pointed end makes the old seal beam glow worms  vastly better 

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17 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

you're going to have to re wire the connectors.

If you modify this kit for a 4 lamp setup, you'll also need to check the feed wires from the battery/fuse are up to the current needed to feed 4 mains, possibly allowing for the 2 (or 4) dips as well, if you flash lights driving on dips. Also, you'll need to check any wire feeding the left and right pairs of mains from the output of the relay is up to that current load. 

Assuming 60 Watt mains and 55 Watt dips and max of 14 Volts supply, that's 4.3 Amps per main (60/14) and 4 per dip (55/14).

However, you also want a reasonable safety margin in case of things like the bulbs are 60 Watts at 12V and you are driving them at 14. Current won't go up pro-rata for that one, because the resistance of a filament bulb is changes with the current - the current does not increase linearly with voltage because the resistance (volts/amps) is related to the filament temperature which is related to the power (Volts x Amps) being dissipated.

I'd allow at least 1.5 (maybe 1.414) times the calculated requirement for safety/ageing - but my background is avionics where weight is an issue. So I think you should spec. the wire working on at least 6 amps per bulb. And if there's any chance someone might fit 100W mains later, you may want to allow 9 or 10 Amps per main.

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