NickT Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 Hi. Can anyone guide me to the correct cluych for my 1970 Mk2 vitesse. It has an overdrive. Some sites say it makes a difference some not. Tried Rimmers/Mev spares/Canleys all different prices and different codes Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 Just bought one from Canleys £65 plus postage Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 all 2ltrs Vitesse / GT6/200 0saloon and even the 2500 use the same base clutch there is no difference in overdrive or not thats rubbish there is a difference if you have a Dolly 1850 gearbox and then the disc splines are rolled not machined there is no confusion eg https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-vitesse-vitesse-mkii-clutch&ptno=GCK282 or eg https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/clutch-assembly-3-piece-2l-2 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted July 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 Hi Thanks for replies. Have seen both of these. Is the Canley set Borg and Beck, if not are they any good?. They are half the price of Rimmers and the set on here. Dont want to be having to do it again in a year. Dont mind paying the extra if its worth it. Got a guy whos gonna do job for me as my back is not up to it anymore. Hes advised to get a Borg and Beck set. Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 borg and beck are made under license now by first line an reputable manufacturer https://www.firstline.co.uk/ canley I have used their clutches without any problems all will last many thousands of miles in normal use do make sure the engine backplate is flat and not distorted by 50 years of levering geaboxes off are there any problems with your clutch ??? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sulzerman Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 I've got a canley's clutch in my spitfire, no problems at all. Rimmer's stuff in overpriced in my opinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Cheers for that guys. Pete. I started to have problem getting reverse a little while ago. Then getting 1st to 2nd was a bugger!. Was having to push pedal thru floor. I've changed master and slave cylinders, bled the hell out of it!. New oil. Was better for a while but still difficult getting gears. Feels like it's not disengaging enough. Thought about extending push rod?. So put some nuts behind slave to bring out a bit. Just the same. So think clutch u/s. Anything else I can try?. Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 there are a lot of wear points on the Vit/GT6 clutch operation that all add up to lost travel firstly extending the slave rod wont do much there is loads of travel spare in the normal slave there are two diameters 7/8 and 1" a 7/8 gives more travel but ups the pedal load. the clevis pin /fork under the baulkhead boot wear simplest fix here is drill out and fit a 3/8" clevis pin the pegs on the end of the throwout arm wear , not so easy , they can be removed and a cut down clevis pin welded in with box out the throwout carrier groove wears where the pegs work , this is easy with box out just redrill and reposition the anti rotation pin or if its a dimple add a new pin elsewhere wear can affect the leverage and its not unusual ( again its box out to add a washer under the spherical post to realign the lever travel all these small points can add up to problems you can play with if you want to take the gearbox off back to basics ...the bleed nipple on the slave must be in the upper hole , and to remove volume push the slave piston in as far as it will go when bleeding then you come to the base clutch there is no DIY way to test whats going on but they dont last for ever a worn thin disc will give slip rather than drag , how old is it ?? if a diaphragm is cracking then it wont clear but check the bleeding first thee are just ideas while you are looking dont get carried away just there is a lot in the geometry of how a clutch is actuated to get the best out of it . and do check the foot pedal is free and the pivot is not stiff which stops the return and the master cyl will not recuperate between pedal strokes sorry for all the waffle but all these small points add up to problems Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Thanks Pete. A few things to check there. Will let you know how I get on. Just 1 other thing. The amount of tangs on the back plate is different on different websites. 1 has 12 and another has 15. Does this make a difference?. Seems strange to me Anyway Thanks again. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 all down to the deisgn of the diaphragm more is nearer the OE spec than the Fewer and to be clear thats the diaphragm spring when i said back plate thats the rear of engine plate the clutch Hsg. is bolted to these get abused over many years and if its wonky in odd places it will misalign the gearbox and that will fracure the clutch disc centre hub and its damper spring case all more going on with a clutch than many realise all small things but can all have an effect on Nice operation Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Have you checked the thrust washers on the crank, if they have fallen out clutch actuation will be very poor, as will you when you come to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 On 13/07/2021 at 06:11, Pete Lewis said: all 2ltrs Vitesse / GT6/200 0saloon and even the 2500 use the same base clutch there is no difference in overdrive or not thats rubbish there is a difference if you have a Dolly 1850 gearbox and then the disc splines are rolled not machined there is no confusion eg https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-vitesse-vitesse-mkii-clutch&ptno=GCK282 or eg https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/clutch-assembly-3-piece-2l-2 Pete Hi Pete What is this 'rolled not machined' you mentioned? My 6 has a 1850 3 rail J type that was sold to me many years ago as built for a Vit/GT6 The drive plate I fitted seems to fit nicely, the car has still to be driven! Are there different plates for fitting 1850 g/boxes to Vit/GT6. Can always pull the gearbox for a look but that gets a bit boring Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 early deign was a machined milled cut 10 splined input shaft later as manufacturing ideas changed the spline was high pressure rolled into the shaft and this has the finer 20 ?? splined shaft as in the Dolly ranges the rolled has much stronger form as you upset the steel rather than removing material many bolts are a rolled in thread see this gives an idea 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Thanks for that Pete. ine is the original cut Vitesse which means my o/d gearbox has been built up for the Vit/GT6. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Early Dolomite 1850 used three rail box, same clutch as Vitesse VT6 etc., with J type overdrive just need to change bellhousing to fit Vitesse, later ones used the single rail box. Only difference with the clutch these days is the driven plate, originally think different lining and springs specified. Gearbox in my Vitesse three rail with fine spline input shaft and J type overdrive, spare gearboxes three rail, coarse spline input shaft and J type overdrive. There has been some odd combinations built up by various suppliers over the years. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 1 hour ago, ahebron said: has been built up for the Vit/GT6. unless it was supplied OE on initial build there is nothing in the gearbox numbers that give any clues all you need to convert (apart from adaptor and the OD ) is it needs areplacement mainshaft all other parts remain the same apart from the extended remote shaft with the inhbitor switch cam on it so yes any box can be converted if you have the appropriate mainshaft to suit Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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