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Mk2 Vitesse clutch


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Hi. Can anyone guide me to the correct cluych for my 1970 Mk2 vitesse.

It has an overdrive. Some sites say it makes a difference some not.

Tried Rimmers/Mev spares/Canleys all different prices and different codes

Cheers Nick

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all 2ltrs Vitesse / GT6/200 0saloon   and even the 2500  use the same  base   clutch there is no difference in overdrive or not thats rubbish 

there is a difference if you have a Dolly 1850 gearbox and then the  disc splines are rolled not machined 

there is no confusion eg      https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-vitesse-vitesse-mkii-clutch&ptno=GCK282

or eg   https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/clutch-assembly-3-piece-2l-2

 

Pete

 

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Hi

Thanks for replies. Have seen both of these. Is the Canley set Borg and Beck, if not are they  any good?. They are half the price of Rimmers and the set on here. 

Dont want to be having to do it again in a year. Dont mind paying the extra if its worth it.

Got a guy whos gonna do job for me as my back is not up to it anymore. Hes advised to get a Borg and Beck set.

Cheers Nick

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borg and beck are made under license  now by first line   an reputable manufacturer    https://www.firstline.co.uk/

canley  I  have used their clutches without any problems 

all will last many thousands of miles in normal use 

 

do make sure the engine backplate is flat and not distorted by 50 years of levering geaboxes off 

are there any problems with your clutch ???

 

pete

 

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Cheers for that guys. 

Pete. I started to have problem getting reverse a little while ago. Then getting 1st to 2nd was a bugger!. Was having to push pedal thru floor. I've changed master and slave cylinders, bled the hell out of it!. New oil. Was better for a while  but still difficult getting gears. Feels like it's not disengaging enough. Thought about extending push rod?. So put some nuts behind slave to bring out a bit. Just the same. So think clutch u/s. Anything else I can try?. 

Cheers Nick 

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there are a lot of   wear points on the Vit/GT6 clutch operation that all add up to lost travel

firstly extending the slave rod wont do much there is loads of travel spare in the normal slave  there are two diameters 7/8 and 1" 

a 7/8  gives more travel but ups the pedal load.

the clevis pin /fork under the baulkhead boot wear  simplest fix here is drill out and fit a 3/8" clevis pin 

the pegs on the end of the throwout arm wear , not so easy , they can be removed and a cut down clevis pin welded in with box out 

the throwout carrier groove wears where the pegs work , this is easy  with  box out just redrill and reposition the anti rotation pin or if its a dimple

add a new pin elsewhere   

wear can affect the leverage and its not unusual ( again its box out to add a washer under the spherical post to realign the lever travel 

all these small points can add up to problems you can play with if you want to take the gearbox off

back to basics  ...the bleed nipple on the slave must be in the upper hole , and to remove volume push the slave piston in as far as it will go when bleeding

then you come to the base clutch  there is no DIY way to test whats going on but they dont last for ever a worn thin disc will give slip rather than 

drag , how old is it  ??    if a diaphragm is cracking then it wont clear  but check the bleeding first 

thee are just ideas while you are looking dont get carried away just there is a lot in the geometry of how a clutch is actuated 

to get the best out of it .

and do check the foot pedal is free and the pivot is not stiff which stops the return and the master cyl will not recuperate between pedal strokes 

sorry for all the waffle but all these small points add up to problems 

Pete

 

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Thanks Pete. A few things to check there. Will let you know how I get on. 

Just 1 other thing. The amount of tangs on the back plate is different on different websites. 1 has 12 and another has 15. Does this make a difference?. Seems strange to me

Anyway Thanks again. 

Nick

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all down to the deisgn of the diaphragm   more is nearer the OE spec than the Fewer 

and to be clear thats the diaphragm spring    when i  said back plate thats the rear of engine plate the clutch Hsg. is bolted to 

these get abused over many years and if its wonky in odd places it will misalign the gearbox and that will fracure the clutch disc centre hub and its damper spring case

all more going on with a clutch than  many realise 

all small things but can all have an effect on Nice operation

Pete

 

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On 13/07/2021 at 06:11, Pete Lewis said:

all 2ltrs Vitesse / GT6/200 0saloon   and even the 2500  use the same  base   clutch there is no difference in overdrive or not thats rubbish 

there is a difference if you have a Dolly 1850 gearbox and then the  disc splines are rolled not machined 

there is no confusion eg      https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-vitesse-vitesse-mkii-clutch&ptno=GCK282

or eg   https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/clutch-assembly-3-piece-2l-2

 

Pete

 

Hi Pete 

What is this 'rolled not machined' you mentioned?
My 6 has a 1850 3 rail J type that was sold to me many years ago as built for a Vit/GT6
The drive plate I fitted seems to fit nicely, the car has still to be driven!
Are there different plates for fitting 1850 g/boxes to Vit/GT6.

Can always pull the gearbox for a look but that gets a bit boring

Adrian

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early deign was a machined  milled cut 10 splined input shaft  later as manufacturing ideas changed the spline was high pressure rolled into the shaft and  this has the finer  20 ??  splined shaft   as in the Dolly ranges 

the rolled has much stronger form as you upset the steel rather than removing material 

many bolts are a rolled in thread 

see this gives an idea 

 

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Early Dolomite 1850 used three rail box, same clutch as Vitesse VT6 etc., with J type overdrive just need to change bellhousing to fit Vitesse, later ones used the single rail box.

Only difference with the clutch these days is the driven plate, originally think different lining and springs specified.

Gearbox in my Vitesse three rail with fine spline input shaft and J type overdrive, spare gearboxes three rail, coarse spline input shaft and J type overdrive. There has been some odd combinations built up by various suppliers over the years.

Regards

Paul

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1 hour ago, ahebron said:

has been built up for the Vit/GT6.

unless it was supplied OE on initial build there is nothing in the gearbox numbers that give any clues  

all you need to convert (apart from adaptor and the OD ) is it needs areplacement mainshaft all other parts remain the same apart from the extended remote shaft 

with the inhbitor switch cam on it

so yes any box can be converted   if you have the appropriate mainshaft to suit 

Pete

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