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GT6 MK1 - Gear Change Bush Kit from Canley Classics how to fit


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Hi There,

I am back so soon....argh !

Having just got Bertie my GT6 in reasonable running shape I set off on a 113 mile drive, the smile on my face went flat as I lost the ability to accurately select a gear about 3 miles from home apart from that it was great.  

I purchased the following "Gear Change Bush" see picture of kit and the gear change assembly.

Can anyone offer any advise as to how to proceed I have not stripped out the carpets and removed the tunnel cover yet. I am assuming I can service the item without unbolting the casting (note the kit has a gasket) I don't want to risk removing the selector No 28 (picture from the Haynes manual page 121) from coming out of the gearbox.

Thank you all

John

 

1003083859_GearChnageBushKitimage001.thumb.png.671d615df50338577f6de629fdb59e36.png

 

 

triumph-gt6-mki_ii-gear-shift-mechanism.jpg.a7a6f2d5014b4ec2baa00d71e265004d.jpg

 

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to fit the kit you have to realy remove the remote   it cant go wrong you wont disengagage anything you cant refit quite easily

the kit can have parts used on evolution of the bushes 

first the metal cup cup washer can have sharp cropped edges  these must be filed smooth or the thing will just chop up the plastic cup

hardest job is if you need to remove the circlip , can be a faf to disengage it from its groove 

if you just need to replace the bushes in the two pivot points you dont need to strip the lever down .

the plastic washers with a small shoulder fit in the bottom of the gear lever  the flat platic washers fit in the forward pivot

as for the bushes the fwd is a different idea to the one on the gear stick hae aplay you cant get it wrong 

undoing the fwd pivot bolt is a fiddle to gt a spanner on , and the pivot bolt on the lever base has to fit one way round or it will foul the casting in 3rd 4th 

do check the revesre plate and stop bolt are set as per the manual 

Pete

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I'd agree with everything Pete says except... I think there is a case for not removing the remote from the box. When my GT6's bush failed (quite catastrophically - the plastic ball [4] disintegrated and fell out completely) I found it a lot easier to replace the necessary bits in-situ than to even reach down into the footwell far enough to put a spanner on the remote fixing nuts. Taking it out does make replacing the intermediate pivot bushes much easier, but they may well not need doing.

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I relatively recently returned to Triumph ownership and the new-to-me Spitfire gear selection was akin to stirring porridge. I posted a query and duly followed Pete’s sage advice. I hadn’t been near a car with a set of spanners for many years but it was all very obvious and straightforward. 

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yes its possible to change the gear stick bush with the remote left on but you do need to check for any lost motion from the hidden pivot 

these buses do collapse 

you  wont need the 0 rings in the kit these seal the front shaft and are fitted inside the remote which no needs a serious strip down 

and refitting will likely chop the new rings and you are  best to always leave them alone  

if the plastic spherical ball is ok dont change it as this needs the nasty circlip removing .

should you get brave the  1/4" square dowel bolt in the fwd housing is very tight , use a brake adjust spanner or a 1/4" drive socket back to front 

or you will just round off the corners and then your stuck ...dont touch  unless you have too 

Pete

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John

This is a fairly straightforward job, but note Pete's advice regarding the potential for sharp edges on the metal cup washer. You may be better re-using your existing one if it is OK condition.

The other issue of concern is quality of the spherical bearing. The original would have been a tough nylon and again if yours is original and in good condition I would re-use it rather than fitting the one in the kit. As Pete says this also avoids having to remove the circlip, which is a pain and not Triumphs finest engineering.

I have had failures of both the (hard) grey plastic one (a few 1000 miles) and the (less hard) black one (150 miles) and now use a bespoke one made from Delrin.

Be careful how much you tighten the bottom pivot bolt. It needs to be tight enough to eliminate play, but not so tight as to bind as this will make the change stiff. I added a further locknut 'just in case'.  Oh yes and make sure you install the bolt in the correct direction.

Ian

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8 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

John

This is a fairly straightforward job, but note Pete's advice regarding the potential for sharp edges on the metal cup washer. You may be better re-using your existing one if it is OK condition.

The other issue of concern is quality of the spherical bearing. The original would have been a tough nylon and again if yours is original and in good condition I would re-use it rather than fitting the one in the kit. As Pete says this also avoids having to remove the circlip, which is a pain and not Triumphs finest engineering.

I have had failures of both the (hard) grey plastic one (a few 1000 miles) and the (less hard) black one (150 miles) and now use a bespoke one made from Delrin.

Be careful how much you tighten the bottom pivot bolt. It needs to be tight enough to eliminate play, but not so tight as to bind as this will make the change stiff. I added a further locknut 'just in case'.  Oh yes and make sure you install the bolt in the correct direction.

Ian

Ian

Excellent point about the quality of the bush kits available these days, I had one last a few hundred miles too, even with smoothing out the metal cup washer.

The quality of the Plastic spherical bearing is dire, presumably it's not made of similar material to the original and is far to soft?

If possible a N.O.S. one or even a N.O.S. Spherical bearing will help it last longer as this seem to be the part tat fails?

Gary    

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Gary

I've never seen a NOS bushing kit or even just the spherical bearing, but if anyone finds one grab it. (would be useful as dimensional reference as well)

The originals are a type of Nylon. The grey ones are injection-moulded hard plastic (and degrade back to granules), the black ones are a softer material and likewise fall apart.

It would be an easy thing to make for someone with access to Delrin bar stock and a ball turning attachment for a lathe. A batch could be commissioned and even possibly stocked as a club spare, as a large numbers of members could benefit.

Ian

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All,

Thank you for all the input above, I did not remove the remote because I could clearly see it was the rubber Doughnut had disintegrated as well as the dome washer that supports the larger of the two springs. The Canley classic  bush replacement kit also came with a washer that supported both the inner and outer springs and kept them off the rubber Doughnut. The bottom pivot bushes were okay on the linkage and I noted  @Gary Flinn comment on not tightening the bottom pivot bolt too tight.

Car has done 71,800 miles and I can't believe this item had ever been changed before. It was covered in thick grease and that is now all cleaned off with a light smear on new grease. 

 

@Gary Flinn it would be good if you can post the details of the Derlin bush please

I did a test drive 113 miles (this is my normal circular route) and the gear change was positive and tight in 1-2-3-4 Reverse is a little tougher and tighter to get in but not causing any engagement issues. Felt like a new car to be honest.

Here are some before and after pictures

Before

IMG20210814112722.thumb.jpg.026136bebbf1334fada90c1a8993ccb4.jpg

 

After , note the steel washer cup stopping the springs touching directly on the rubber doughnut

IMG20210814122335.thumb.jpg.62e04aeb0da3a0b2216d523b3446e800.jpg

 

IMG20210814123906.thumb.jpg.bcc7fa5363dbffb86947b2af6be52ad8.jpgIMG20210814124907.thumb.jpg.b0700bec98a7aae446d9661fe6250389.jpg

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On 12/08/2021 at 15:43, johny said:

I reckon the plastic they use in replacement hips would do the job👍

Need a few riots over here, the plastic bullets they used to use were great stuff for everything from bushes to bonnet cones. The modern AEPs are rubbish in comparison though, so may not work any more.

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