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No oil flow from Mk1 six cyl engine


soviet40
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Hello All,

 

I hope that someone can help. I am nearing the end of my restoration and for a break from bodywork I decided to try to start my engine, since all mech and elec work is complete. My engine is a Mk1 2000 type and as it was a good runner when I started the restoration, I had only changed the cylinder head (for recon unit), and fitted replacement rockers and shaft + timing chain. I also had fitted a new oil pressure relief valve + spring and cleaned out the sump. Before trying to start, I removed the plugs and squirted some oil down the bores. I fitted the battery and turned the engine over but the oil light would not go out and the gauge showed zero oil pressure. ( I checked that the gauge and switch were working with compressed air) I then removed the oil pressure switch and it was dry. Next I removed all ancillary components and removed the sump to check the oil pump. Checked the pump with feeler gauges and it seemed OK but close to limits, however I thought that while I was in there I would replace it anyway. So, I bought a new pump and pressure switch to make sure. To fit the new pump I needed to remove the plate and gauze from my sump, this was done and I fitted the pump after coating the internals with Vaseline. All put back together, filled sump and new oil filter with oil and repeated the same turning over sequence. Same result, no oil flow whatsoever. The only thing I could add is that the battery is quite old and the engine does not turn over anywhere near as fast as a modern car. That said, it holds a charge and turns the engine no problem: I have been trickle charging it on and off for 3 years while I've restored the car.

 

Any help or suggestions from other members would be most gratefully received.

 

PS I am not a new member, just I can never log in to this website successfully so always end up starting a new account.

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Try using a drill (in reverse!) with a either a flat screwdiver bit, or a bit of rod with a flat on teh end to turn the oil pump drive under the distributor. In fact it is worth checking that the distributor is engaging with the oil pump drive etc. 

I now use this technique to get oil around the system prior to startup.

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Yes sounds like theres a pump drive or priming problem follow clives clues.

 

the skew gear is not gone missing ??? Or has any giant end float ..

 

you need to log on to get the main website fully operational and also log on to the forum

both log on can be the same or different , its your choice

you dont need to be logged on the website to to log on the forum once youre registered

 

if you have trouble with forum log on email kevin

 

any trouble withnthe club website call angie at HQ to check your passwords etc.

 

pete

 

pete

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Dear all, Thanks for your help. this was indeed a priming problem. I'd had enough of stripping down after removing the sump and changing the pump, so taking cues from your advice. I thought I would try reverse priming the pump and this worked a treat. I removed the oil pressure switch and squirted some 20/50 down there with my oil can, then I used low pressure compressed air to push the oil down to the pump. This has worked and I now get good oil pressure on the starter. I just need to cure my incontinent carbs and then I can try starting her up. When I rebuilt the carbs I bought rebuild kits; however when I connected up the fuel, both weaped from the float chamber joint. Basically, the gaskets in the kits are slightly different to the sealing edge of my float chambers, so I will need to get some new ones.

 

Thanks again, much appreciated

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Most kits stromberg kits should have a multitude of joints as there were small changed over the years

The kit should cover all possibles,

yes the incorrect can give these leaks from a corner zone

 

you can refit on the car make sure the replacement fits the bowl contour

most unfortunate

pete

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