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Engine and Gearbox position.


Wagger
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These photos show the postion of engine and gearbox at this present time. The sump bolt hole should be in front of the rack. The gearstick exit is rearward by the same amount.

With a gaiter 'Fitted' this is hidden.

Soon, I hope, the hub puller will arrive and I can check the differential position, because the propshaft will not reach if I move all forward right now.

Currently the propshaft is 47.625 inches flange to flange. Fitted length of the 'Non-overdrive' version is 47.65 ins.

More next week.

 

The current position.jpg

Too far back(1).jpg

Hiding the problem.jpg

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Sorry DanMi, I meant the post to be for information not advice. Members have been asking for pictures, so I obliged.

This has been going on for a while and I should have added it to the last posts really. Yes, it is the wrong side of the turrets, but it has  a 2500TC engine with the 2500 sump. If I move it forward, it will clout the bonnet and rack. So best left as it is as there is just clearance.

The prop will not stretch forward either. The main reason for me trying was to fit the overdrive. It was, originally, an overdrive model. I have posted pictures of the car hoping that someone recognises it. Would be nice if they did, I may find out who did it, why and when. I would have preferred the original engine installed with what it had when new. I don't believe it has ever had a restoration. If will be useable when I have done the uj's and I want to use it whilst I am well enough to do so. I have won my battle with cancer so far, but tome is precious.

 

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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

surely the 2500 lump is same  basic  height as the 2000  so moving fwd should not compromise bonnet clearance

or is the crankcase skirt deeper  ??  

Pete

Lack of "rack cutout" on the 2500 sump means it sits higher. 

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Sorry to repeat all of this.

The 2500 sump is deeper. Most modifiers fit a Vitesse sump that is beaten out to clear crank 1&2. That is ok. Others beat the 2500 sump in to clear the rack. I saw one of these last weekend. It creates a well of oil that will not drain unless you jack the front up 45 degrees when changng the oil. Will I remember to do that every time?

As it all is running ok now with marginal clearances, I will check the rear diff front mounting. If reversed, it pulls the diff back about 20mm. This would result in the drive shafts being out of line with the hubs. Another problem maybe looming then.

My earlier posts were confusing due to the measurement errors. As stated, the prop cannot be used at full stretch and is in mid position of the spline right now.

My objective here was to post photos, which I have managed to do from an XP machine that I can tell what to do and where to save files. I send these to myself on a laptop with Windows 10 which decides where to put stuff without consulting me (Bloody thing!) I stuff the pictures into 'Downloads' so that I can find them. The XP machine take 5 mins to upload just one picture. Windows 10 machine takes 2 mins. Need to reset the camera, but that will result in poor focussing again.

I taught computing mid 1980's when we all told computers what to do. Imagine my frustration now after writing all of my own conversion programs from metric to imperial etc. Brain decay is a result of looking everything up. No joy doing crosswords with family now.

I built automatic test equipment before things like 'Labview'. Should have patented it all. Oh well. Could have been a millionaire and just bought stuff. No thanks! This is more enjoyable.

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The saloon engine was fitted on a 'cant', tilted, so that it was lower and so could the bonnet line be lower.   But the sump floor is flat and horizontal, so when the engine is fitted in a 'small chassis' car, the left side dips down.

What sump do you have, Wagger?   You, or your DPO, didn't bother to take the 'horns' off the fromt engine plate, so like as not they didn't bother to change the sump.      No wonder the engine won't fit!

It's a 2.5 so as Pete says, some dips need beating in the floor of the shallow part of a 2L sump, to clear the big ends, but then you might be able tio fi the engine properly!

JOhn

 

PS you beat me to it, posting just before I did!  Oh, well, great minds and all that.

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1 hour ago, Wagger said:

 

As it all is running ok now with marginal clearances, I will check the rear diff front mounting. If reversed, it pulls the diff back about 20mm. This would result in the drive shafts being out of line with the hubs. Another problem maybe looming then.

 

 

The rear diff mounts are fixed position, no chance of it being moved back without (very) major modifications.

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Last word from me, on this topic, it has been 'Done to death' really.

The reason for posting the photos of the car etc was to find out if anyone recognised it. (Please see other posts by me, Wagger. Apologies if they are in the'Wrong place'). Then I might have understood when, why and how they did it that way. I do know that some previous owners are no longer on this planet. They also never bothered to have the engine details changed on the V5. Yet another task still to do. I have had the car since 11th July this year. Yes, there is loads to do on it, but I have a limited budget and life span. However, I do have skills and a wee bit of time as a retiree so long as my health holds up.

The 2500 sump tapers very slightly forward and this one is radiussed so that it is convex. So, shifting the engine back achieves microscopic space, but, does improve bonnet clearance. I have 'Canted' the engine to the right slightly and that achieved carb clearance. My son has a store of Dolomite carbs and may find a shorter dashpot pair.

Would love to know where the original engine gearbox and overdrive went. I would have been quite happy with a 2 litre even if I had to modify it for ordinary unleaded fuel. My son found the car last September when somebody wanted rid of it in a repair shop garage. It was left to have work done before the owner died. Guess a bill had to be paid. That is how we got it.

We only discovered the engine change after it was delivered to my son and he checked the engine number which is MM42922HC. Late(ish) 2500TC.

I suspect that the differential has a modified front flange, or something from another car. I'll find out when I do the drive shafts.

Just hope nobody did a 'Cut and shut'. Not found any evidence yet, but the body is all bolted. It could be due to replacement chassis parts, but all that looks good.

 

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44 minutes ago, Wagger said:

They also never bothered to have the engine details changed on the V5. Yet another task still to do.

Good luck with that. I've had three attempts to change the engine number on my Spitfire's V5 and DVLA just keep sending the new document with the old number.

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