Pete Lewis Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 ah,,,,,,,,,, come on we havnt visited engine knock or dashpot oils again....yet we can all drink to that slurp Hic Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 Course that historic Fan treaty didnt take into account the fun to be had comparing fan air flows and thermostat histeresis and then installing wiring, fuses, lights and switches and setting it all up before the final pleasure of hearing it cut in and seeing the temp gauge drop. Ah almost tempted to get another car so I can do it all again🤗 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 25 minutes ago, Mathew said: thrust washer movement You've been looking at back copies of The Sun p3 again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 I think we've deviated, I'm definitely not sparking on all 6 cylinders! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 Hi, If the new pump flow rate is improved it will increase "Cooling". For any car Water Pump maximum cooling will happen when the flow rate/RPM is at the point before cavitation occurs. cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 We're back on track but have we actually helped Aviv? Personally I would check the aux fan temp sensor first and see if Water Wetter helps. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 23 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said: Hi, If the new pump flow rate is improved it will increase "Cooling". For any car Water Pump maximum cooling will happen when the flow rate/RPM is at the point before cavitation occurs. cheers, Iain. Not sure that is true as cant the water flow through the rad/engine too fast so not removing as much heat as possible? I thought there was an optimum speed over the heat transfer surfaces especially on cooling so that if you install a larger radiator then, yes you might need a larger flow rate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 5 minutes ago, johny said: Not sure that is true as cant the water flow through the rad/engine too fast so not removing as much heat as possible? SNIP***** It's a fact. Faster is better. "water flow through the rad/engine too fast so not removing as much heat as possible?" You really think that? LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 15 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said: It's a fact. Faster is better. "water flow through the rad/engine too fast so not removing as much heat as possible?" You really think that? LOL. I know heat transfer isnt instantaneous and the rate depends on the temperature difference between the two mediums so it seems logical theres an optimum contact time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 1 hour ago, SpitFire6 said: For any car Water Pump maximum cooling will happen when the flow rate/RPM is at the point before cavitation occurs. Well, in theory, perhaps. However the difference between the cooling achieved by a moderate flow and the maximum achieved at four or five times that flow is often too small to measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 3 hours ago, SpitFire6 said: Hi, If the new pump flow rate is improved it will increase "Cooling". For any car Water Pump maximum cooling will happen when the flow rate/RPM is at the point before cavitation occurs. cheers, Iain. This appears to correlate with the experience of other owners who have installed the updated water pump. It appears to force coolant through the system better regardless of other variables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 I know that the TR7 changed from 6 vanes to 12 during production. From the Revington TR site: "Of the uprated water pumps on the market, our experience has been twofold: Usually an uprated water pump is unnecessary if the engine is in good order and in proper tune and secondly, an aluminium uprated water pump offers considerable weight saving - useful in race applications. If for other reasons the water cooling system needs improving, consider using the electric water pump kit detailed below." The other reasons seem to be for racing engines, some thoughts as to why in the posts below: From the TR Register: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/3430-water-pumps/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 56 minutes ago, avivalasvegas said: This appears to correlate with the experience of other owners who have installed the updated water pump. It appears to force coolant through the system better regardless of other variables. I think the limitation of a cooling system depends on the model of car so an uprated pump will definitely push more coolant but if the size of the radiator is the limiting factor it wont help much. For historical design reasons many people, myself included, believe this to be the case with the Triumph small chassis sixes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 agree the first port of call is is it actually overheating measure the coolant temperature check the sender the gauge and stabiliser replace thermostat recore the radiator now the basics are in a known state ............. then throw £££ at it with Must haves Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: then throw £££ at it with Must haves Pete Must haves... but don't needs... they're my favourite source of income at present; drawers and shelves full of bright ideas from years back that often never made it to the car, or else stayed on for a month or two and made no difference whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 On 11/09/2021 at 10:07, avivalasvegas said: definitely top hose. There’s your problem. The sensor is measuring mostly engine load rather than radiator efficiency. You need to raise the switching point a little. I had similar problems with my Vitesse for exactly the same reason as the fan is switched by the ECU which gets its temperature from the thermostat housing. My GT6 has a well shrouded Golf radiator and runs dead centre at all times except in traffic when it creeps up to 3/4+ because the Golf switch point (on the rad outlet) is a bit high. I’d prefer it a little lower but it doesn’t seem to cause any problems. The reason that your engine temperature goes up at high speed in spite of the airflow is that there isn’t enough air going through the radiator and the engine load is quite high. Whether this is due to lack of shrouds/ducting/engine side panels or simply the air not being able to escape the engine bay, I don’t know. Nick 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted April 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 Well, a couple years on and the ol radiator has sprung a leak. Aaron's radiators quoted me £395 + VAT for a recore!!! I suppose a Radtech aluminium replacement makes the most sense! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 had a local herald rad recored by a local repairer for £140 in 2022 pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 30 minutes ago, avivalasvegas said: suppose a Radtech aluminium replacement makes the most sense! I have one in my 2.5 Vitesse, good build quality but not cheap. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avivalasvegas Posted April 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: had a local herald rad recored by a local repairer for £140 in 2022 pete That's one hell of a deal. I can't find anyone who'll do it for less than twice that! Given how the rad is the weak link in the cooling system, I'm tempted to splurge on the aluminum radiator but wasn't sure if the car would noticeably cool better? Edited April 19, 2023 by avivalasvegas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 19, 2023 Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 auto radiator services car and commercial repairs both on same site +44 1582 503779 sales@comspecrads.co.uk 141 Portland Road Luton, Bedfordshire, LU4 8AY United Kingdom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted April 19, 2023 Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 I went aluminium for the GT6 after a couple of recored ones failed in quite short periods - one in the core, the other the filler neck cap tangs fractured. Bought mine from here: https://custommaderads.co.uk/product/triumph-gt6-aluminium-radiator/ Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 19, 2023 Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 46 minutes ago, Gully said: I went aluminium for the GT6 after a couple of recored ones failed in quite short periods - one in the core, the other the filler neck cap tangs fractured. Bought mine from here: https://custommaderads.co.uk/product/triumph-gt6-aluminium-radiator/ Gully Think they're trying to tell us something? If they make to order this isn't the best way to advertise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 19, 2023 Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 Its a pity the chinese ones dont seem to be available in the UK and the EU, with the accompanying duties, appears to be the only source. At 163 pounds including delivery theyre much cheaper and although the welds may not be as pretty as some my experience of these cheapy aluminium rads has been good. Of course the GT6 model is a bit more complicated so I cant vouch for the accuracy of its dimensions.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted April 19, 2023 Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 (edited) I have the Chinese ally full width one in my 1500 Herald,about £120 iirc, it`s been great, if anything it over cools. I messed around with different senders and the gauge ranged from 1/3 to over half at normal temperatures due to the variants in the resistance of the senders. It never actually overheats though. Still have a plastic crank driven fan on it. Helps with the 4 into 1 tubular manifold heat. Steve Edited April 19, 2023 by Steve P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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