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How good is the GT6 heater compared to the Spitfire? (Probably a flaw in my thnking ....)


DVD3500
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Having to do a lot of manual labor (shoveled nearly 3 tons of dirt by hand) my mind got to wandering.

My hard top is a fiberglass "Körbler" that can turn into a targa.

It is very thick. The roof is about 3 inches thick and the sides are at least 2 inches.

I want my Spitfire to be used year round (as I did my previous Spitfire). In my old one with just the softtop the side windows fogged up a lot. As I was young and flexible and without dependents I didn't mind having a towel in the car to wipe them down occasionally.

When I saw a video of someone reviewing a MKIII GT6 I saw the eyeball vents read in the "Guide to Originality" that extra venting had been added to help things like fogging.

I got to wondering if a GT6 heater might help even if the passenger eyeball is pretty far away from the side window.

As GT6 heater casings are hard to get I was thinking of modifying a Spitfire heater case, cutting the holes and getting vents that look as close to the GT6 as possible.

I am overthinking this, aren't I?

Or am I?

If I were to go through with it are there any other differences I need to know?

The controls look the same as a Spitfire...

Or would a Smart/Micro fan motor do just as much?

Or a stick with a sponge on the end?

Thanks!

 

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fogging is due to moisture in the cabin  you warm it a bit and it condenses on the cool glass/plastic window 

put a fan heater in the car for a good while before you set off  dont sit it on the seats   or the heat will deform the covers

how many cars have a lead lamp imprint on a seat  ??  

GT6 has opening nondraft vents they are a help   not fitted to spits 

Pete

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13 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

If that were true the vents would be connected to the heater, they aren't!

DOH! I should have figured that... When I google GT6 heater it looked like the case had 2 extra pipes coming out the bottom as opposed to the holes a Spitfire has so i presumed those hooked up to the vents... the lack of tubing should have been a clue!

2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

put a fan heater in the car for a good while before you set off  dont sit it on the seats   or the heat will deform the covers

The car will always be in the garage and I do plan on keeping it above freezing in there so that is likely the best course of action...

3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

GT6 has opening nondraft vents they are a help   not fitted to spits 

Not sure what you mean... do you have picture?

 

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I will have to see if such an equivalent exists here in Germany. My Mom could bring over some from the States for sure.

I used it on my Porsche 924 because my heater fan motor broke so while you were moving air came through but not at a standstill and I remember RainX (other brands are available) working well...

 

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21 hours ago, Paul H said:

There’s nothing to stop you adding heated seats, an easy fix 

Paul 

Not in a GT6. I don't think any GT6 driver ever has needed more heat. Might be an easy fix, better in a convertible, but all it does in a small cabin is make your legs sweaty, so the windows mist up even more... :)

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Actually in the summer I tended to leave my heater pointing at the screen and if I was in in slow moving traffic I would even turn the blower on to help dissipate heat. All with the top off of course... I never really had a problem...

I was plenty warm in my Spitfire with the top on (winters in Michigan are real winters with meter high snow and subzero temps Fahrenheit OR Celsius...) , probably thanks to a loose gearbox tunnel and a bit of cardboard in front of the radiator but the windows steamed up from time to time and I reckon a fiberglass hard top with now read quarter windows might be steamier ...

There are actually electrically heated  jackets that look OK as well so I really doubt we will freeze... I just want to be able to see!!!!

Here in Germany that law is you are not to let a car run idle for more than 3 minutes and all standard press says you should scrape ice off the car FIRST then start it and drive away. The say letting the engine idle only warms the engine and if you take off like a bat out of h€ck the cold transmission and brakes (?) will suffer... Oh yeah, and you are squeezing dead dino juice fumes into the air....

As you all know, I am a bit of a greeny (not GreenPeace for sure but I do try my best: I cycle/walk pretty much everywhere, reduce, re-use, re-purpose, re-cycle etc...) But I draw the line at the whole scraping then starting the engine...

I proved it to my wife. We did it the "official" way. So after huffing around the car and working ourselves up a bit  we get in, start the car and happens? Everything fogs up or even freezes again and I can't see a dam/n thing!

We have tons of children around, there are bollards to squeeze traffic and slow it down AND the road next to our house is the main thoroughfare for people walking their dogs.

I simply cannot drive until the windows and windshield are free and I know they will stay that way.

I kind of compromise now.

I scrape the main parts that I absolutely need to see: Windshield, front windows, rear (backend) window.

I start the engine but I do try to do the rest as fast as I can.

It's diesel so it take forever to warm up anyway...

A friend showed me how his electric Enyaq  (Skoda) has an app to start warming it up before he takes of. Can be used to cool it down too. I kinda think that is neat.

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20 minutes ago, DVD3500 said:

I simply cannot drive until the windows and windshield are free and I know they will stay that way.

One of the things I like about my "modern" (a 2006 Ford Mondeo) is that it has an electrically heated windscreen. On a properly frosty morning I start the engine, turn on both screen heaters, scrape the side windows and back, by which time the front screen has pretty much cleared itself and will remain fog-free as I drive off. And that despite all the symptoms of a missing thermostat (the engine doesn't get warm before I get to work, or even on a drive to Cambridge in winter).

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Eberspacher, Diesel Night heaters. Set the Timer, Nice Warm Lorry by 7am👍, Screen cleared. Gaffer used to moan about the Diesel Use ocasionally. But he was rarely in the yard before 9 or 10 anyway!. Webasto, do Petrol and LPG versions. E-Bay has loads of Chinese "knock offs" cheap as chips?.

Pete.

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How about a bit of thread drift ? 
The summer is for enjoying your Triumph . The Autumn and Winter for fixing / improving . In my case getting down to bodywork and spraying . BUT temp had to be 17c to spray . I have a dedicated single garage which will need heating . The garage has little insulation . I see my options as either a Propane Spacer Blower or perhaps a Wood Burner . Any ideas ? 
Paul 

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Paul - Also consider your garage door. Mine is steel and very cold in the winter. I keep meaning to get some 2" insulation sheet to cover the inside. I insulated the roof void some time ago. Much cooler in the summer and warmer in winter but that door needs attention!!!

Don't just measure the air temp. You need one of those laser thermometer thingies to measure the temperature of the actual metal that you are going to spray.

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2 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Paul - Also consider your garage door. Mine is steel and very cold in the winter. I keep meaning to get some 2" insulation sheet to cover the inside. I insulated the roof void some time ago. Much cooler in the summer and warmer in winter but that door needs attention!!!

Don't just measure the air temp. You need one of those laser thermometer thingies to measure the temperature of the actual metal that you are going to spray.

I have removed the garage door and filled in with a single door and window . The walls are concrete panels which has been battened and covered with plywood , same with the roof 

Paul

 

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