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bodger
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You'll get all sorts of suggestions as to what to use, but think about what you want to use your car for and what mileage you'll cover annually. I use that stuff because a) it's available locally and b) because I mostly just tootle about with some long Club runs and some light motorway / dual carriageway use. Plus it gets changed every year regardless of usage. Penrite Oil is also good but not sold locally to me. I was once talked into some super-duper Lucas Hot Rod & Classic oil, which cost me almost £50, made no difference to the engine or the driving experience that I could tell, and was changed at the next annual service anyway, after less than 300 miles that year! 

With the amount of oil that my current Herald dumps on the garage floor, I could set another engine in under and let one top up the other... but that'll be addressed over the winter.

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In my Vitesse I use Penrite 20W60 because I know it's a good oil and it stays tolerably clean and still gives good oil pressure for the whole year (OK, sometimes a tad more) between changes.

In the GT6 I don't use that. I've used Morris 20W50 and Fuzz Townshend's Classic Oils 20W50 and both seem perfectly decent. The reason I don't use Penrite is purely that the GT6 has never suffered low oil pressure since I rebuilt the engine and blueprinted the pump, 30 years ago. On the contrary, when cold it suffers from excessive oil pressure, so the thinner spec works better. It used to really like Duckhams Hypergrade 15W50 but that's not been available for quite some time.

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Never heard of it either. The important points are the thickness, 20W50, mineral not synthetic and of course the additives.

You don't want lots of detergent but you do want some Zinc. API SL does have a fairly high level of Zinc.

So, the answer is that it should be fine for your car.

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Heard good things about it, but it now looks expensive compared to some similar quality oils (the heritage stuff, comma etc)

Friend rebuilds gearboxes, and he got 2x10L gear oil tubs. Tested it in his spitfire with a gearbox and diff oil change, reckons the box changes better and overdrive comes in faster. Very pleased, about £40 for the 20L. (80/90 GL4 spec)

26 minutes ago, Chris A said:

The important points are the thickness, 20W50, mineral not synthetic and of course the additives.

 

20/50 was the later spec of oil for our cars, earlier onew straight 30, an indeed other viscosities for various ambient temps. A 10/60 would be better in many respects, and may have been specified if it was being made at the time. But for general use, 20/50 works well. 

As to synthetics, there is no reason not to use them, unless the engine is sludgy inside. Synthetics are superior in just about every way. Except price. To downside is they can be too good, and break up sludge sending around the engine. 

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10 minutes ago, Chris A said:

Yes and yes. Did it actually do anything or just another snake oil?

The jury is out on that one; I've just done a search and it's still available, but as to what it actually does... I used it in the past, not recently, but a lot of posters these days seem to think that it actually does very little and in any case pours out with the first oil change after adding. Allegedly you can drive the engine for miles if you lose all of the oil which to be honest sounds like some Triumph owners I know, so nothing new there... :(

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In the 70s there were all sorts of concoctions to add to your oil and petrol to clean out, coat, strengthen, slip and heaven's knows what else. Did they work? No idea. I even have some sort of a memory of something like a banger (firework not car) that you lit and dropped into the bore which purported to clean it I don't know how you were supposed to get the remains out, or it might just be something that I thought I remembered!!!

 

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