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GT6 rear hatch fit


BestyA
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you most likely have the wrong seal section too many awfull seals are out there on sale , there are clues on here from others with tailgates being proud 

all down to excess seal loading the fit 

these are the seal guys  its finding a slim  edge fit  flip  section not a bubble seal      https://coh-baines.co.uk/

Pete    

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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

you most likely have the wrong seal section too many awfull seals are out there on sale , there are clues on here from others with tailgates being proud 

all down to excess seal loading the fit 

these are the seal guys  its finding a slim  edge fit  flip  section not a bubble seal      https://coh-baines.co.uk/

Pete    

+1 for Pete's advice on the seal.

Once you're certain you have the correct seal thickness, there is some adjustment in the latch mounting screws and if one corner still sits proud, you can try shimming the hinge mounts with gasket paper or washers.

It's also possible that the hatch frame is slightly twisted if it's up on one corner.

Nigel

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Thanks, (Pete &Nigel) I will give them a call, (I need door seals as well). If I take the seal off it sits completely flat, so I am hoping the hatch isn't twisted. If I shim, would you shim the same side, on the hatch hinge or the roof hinge, or is it suck it and see?

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What was supposed to be  the correct seal on mine made the hatch stick up like a flat mushroom. Closer examination of the old, original seal revealed it was a "P" section and not the "i" section that everyone said was correct. I believe the very last GT6s Feb 73 to Nov 73 had a lot of variations from previously and I think an M reg will be one of those?

I got a seal that fitted from Woolies. (motor trim, not high street confectionary :lol:)

Doug

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Entirely possible to use shims between hinge and tailgate itself, if and when required. But it's a subtle matter because shimming one side 'up' throws the other side 'down'. Much experimentation can be required to get a balance between the sides. But if without any seal the 'gate is sitting nicely at all four corners then one could say that the basics of the panel alignment are correct and shimming would not be relevant.

The seal you've got definitely looks wrong. At a guess it looks like a 16mm or even 19mm bead. If one is going to use a beaded top seal (rather than lip) it's most likely to be 8mm, 10mm or 12mm bead. But just which would depend on the particulars of the vehicle.

Once the basic fit of the 'gate is right then the seal is the most important factor in determining the final position. But it is also worth taking a critical look at the lip on the body aperture and the corresponding inner face in the 'gate itself. If there have been repairs then there may be high spots which need to be dealt with.

What I'm about to say is possibly completely wrong. If I recall DX73 is a side-lip seal. Which would mean that the only thing for the gate to 'hit' on when it closes would be the hard rubber where the seal is pushed on to the lip. If one's going to use a lip seal then might it need to be a top-lip? Such that the closing is onto the lip. ???

An additional point for examination is how well any seal pushes on as it traverses the nylon striker plate for the catch. Especially if there have been former repairs the nylon may obstruct the seal from pushing all the way down on the lip, creating a high spot.  Easily remedied but may not be obvious on casual inspection.

 

 

 

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Thanks Chris, that is a really comprehensive answer. I think the seal that is fitted is certainly too deep and hard. It also is cut short around the striker plate i.e. not there at all. I think I will look at the DX73 and see what happens.

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