jagnut66 Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Hi, My Herald 1200 is a 1970 model with an engine prefix of 'GD', I have been looking for a rebuild kit for the carb and the most like looking one I see is this one: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ZRK8 All the others listed seem to be for earlier cars prefixed 'GA'. Before I commit to buy though, please can someone confirm this is the correct one for it. Anyone reading my other posts will have noticed I intend to try out an SU conversion, however, ever cautious, I would like an 'option B'........... Many thanks, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 try asking Burlen there site shows herald 70> but lists little you need to ask them http://zenithcarb.co.uk/contacts/?carbspec=3999 ZRK8 seems a universal kit for B30 types carbs there are a number of these used over the years with small variances , james paddock lists as 1200 12/50 B30 kit burlen shows as Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 The Herald carb was the B30PSE1; you should see this stamped on the main body of the carb. However in 1970 Solex was taken over by Zenith who then produced the ZIC carbs; allegedly more reliable but I had believed that they were too late for the Herald. The ZIC has an accelerator pump on the side so is visually different to the earlier Herald carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 8, 2021 Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 its the zic that burlen list for a 70s Herald so that stacks up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 8, 2021 Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 The Solex will say Solex on it, so that's easy enough to check; here you can see it on the side of the accelerator pump. The ZIC has a slightly different shape but also often says ZIC on a brass tag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 On 08/10/2021 at 12:47, Colin Lindsay said: The Solex will say Solex on it, so that's easy enough to check; here you can see it on the side of the accelerator pump. I now have the Solex removed, so I will check to see if it has a ZIC tag on it. However, having heard the engine run with the SU I'd rather stick with this, as long as I can resolve the bonnet closing issue -- see my 'engine problems' topic. Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 Are you using one of the Speedograph adaptors? I'm surprised that it's actually taller than the Solex with air filter box attached. Photos, please, if you can - I have one of those and was debating using the SU from a Morris Minor, which has an angled float chamber at the correct angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 On 23/10/2021 at 20:38, Colin Lindsay said: Photos, please, if you can - I have one of those and was debating using the SU from a Morris Minor, which has an angled float chamber at the correct angle. Hi Colin, I am just about to upload some pictures into the Engine problems topic, as to running, if I can sort out the height issue (and I have a couple of ideas -- one of which is a short necked chamber), from what I heard it runs much better with the SU. I need to sort this and take it for a drive out though. The adapter was originally intended for a (larger than the solex) stromberg............ with a shorter neck...... If you're interested the abutment plate I used is a Mini one, as the accelerator, choke cable and throttle return spring locators are on the correct side for the Triumph set up. All I had to do was loose a small section of the metal sheathing on the choke cable. Link to one below: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284357009110?hash=item4234ff9ed6:g:7ikAAOSwHGZdkPo1 Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 Got it in the other thread... that's quite a large SU carb, mine is much slimmer but probably the same height. A few short necks on eBay at present: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174981960486?hash=item28bdbcd326:g:n00AAOSw9cphbFmA The SU adaptor I have is similar: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 If it's slimmer then it may be a HS2: 1.25"? Mine is an ex-Mini HS4. Burlen is a good source for needles, I've gone for a 1275 standard needle, code 'DZ'. For a HS2 I believe you would need an 'M'. I've attached the chart I use below. Best wishes, Mike. SU needle chart.doc 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 On 24/10/2021 at 10:25, Colin Lindsay said: The SU adaptor I have is similar: Hi Colin, I have just updated my 'Engine problems' topic. Basically I have skimmed a few mil off the inlet manifold and this has allowed the SU carb to sit under the bonnet, however I then had an issue with finding an air filter housing that fitted and didn't impact on the bonnet itself. In the end I used an SU pancake, though I read a worrying post recently that stated that these type of filters can bring on engine wear in the long term. Is this true? My main problem with getting to this stage though wasn't the above, what really held me up was getting the correct manifold to downpipe gasket, long story short, GEG702 which is supposed to be for late Heralds doesn't fit, as it's too big, it appears my late Herald (1970) is fitted with an earlier manifold that requires GEG717. Your cars date to the lates sixties don't they? So I wonder which they will need...... Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 30, 2021 Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 pancakes only allow engine wear if they dont filter well what you do get is less carb throat vacuum so they need a revised needle to correct weak running Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 43 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: so they need a revised needle to correct weak running Interesting, so I need a 'rich' needle, rather than a 'standard' one then? Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 do they even list a needle for an HS4 on a 1147 engine ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 Not specifically for an 1147 sized engine no. So you can either go for a 1098 needle or a 1275 one. I have been running Hetty on a standard 1275 one. So far so good. The main things that started this experiment was, one, necessity, I wanted her up and running again, the Solex needs rebuilding as it is 'blowing bubbles' around the diaphragm at present. This has occurred since I have been running her regularly, so I am putting it down to E10 fuel. As an aside, I have been unable to get super unleaded, synergy supreme etc. for some time, it seems as if as soon as the local garages replenish their stocks, everyone piles in and drains them down again (I'm talking moderns here). With all the negative reports circulating, I think they are running scared of E10. Two, I prefer SU's, I've experienced Solex before and my opinion of them isn't that high. That said, she ran okay until she didn't................... And three, curiousity, I wanted to see if I could adapt the manifold to take an SU and how it would run on one. I have sourced a standard Herald 1200 manifold to go back to if I decide I prefer this and the Solex will be rebuilt in due course. Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 Just now, jagnut66 said: Not specifically for an 1147 sized engine no. So you can either go for a 1098 needle or a 1275 one. You just beat me to it! Any of the cars that run the SU, on that size of an engine - Anglia or Minor - should supply the proper needle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 I also have a standard 1098 needle for my HS4 (though I would need a 'rich' needle from what Pete says above), which I may try if I start to think that the engine is running too fast. What I can confirm is that the engine runs very well on the carb itself, so it's just down to fine tuning and being sure I don't cause premature wear, hence my questions about the pancake filter I have fitted. Of course the other thing that dictated my choice was that I had already refurbished the SU, making it E10 proof (as much as you can anyway). Refurb kits for the solex are generally in the £70 to £80 range!! 🙄 Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 25 minutes ago, jagnut66 said: I also have a standard 1098 needle for my HS4 (though I would need a 'rich' needle from what Pete says above), which I may try if I start to think that the engine is running too fast. I'd try to see if I could obtain a good mixture setting on the standard needle. As Pete says all the pancake filter does is to allow a better flow of air, so less 'pull' from the filter to increase the fuel mixture, hence the need for compensation. You'll only get excessive wear if there's too much fuel getting in to the engine, as if you were running with the choke out all the time, so drive for a bit (idling just soots up the plugs) and adjust as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted October 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 The suns come out for a bit, so I think I'll go for a run in the Peak District then....... Like I said, it's a standard 1275 needle at present, so we'll see..... Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted November 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 Nice run out to Stanton in the Peak / Stanton Moor yesterday, I also managed a pleasant walk on the moor before the weather deteriorated again. However I think she's overfuelling with the 1275 needle installed and she has never liked the choke being out for too long, even when cold it has always been pretty much pull it out, start her up, push it in again. So I'm going to try a 'rich' 1098 needle and see how that goes. Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 you can lean off the basics by removing the damper spring allows more air flow and less fuel drags from the jet pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 (edited) On 31/10/2021 at 11:48, Colin Lindsay said: (idling just soots up the plugs) Is that the same for Stroms, especially old, worn a bit, carbs (though needles and jets not old and just a bit of spindle play, though would have assumed play would have made, if anything, a bit more weak at idle). just wondering, as on Pete's previous advice I have been gradually leaning off mixture, to help with stumbley running/more difficult starting, in slow moving/city/traffic jams on hot days. Has helped a good bit so far and ongoing (though cold weather now so will leave it until next year). Don't want to lean off too much though for faster driving (can it cause damage to these engines), or would be obvious, missing/hesitant/or when accelerating, pinking maybe?. No big deal as such, just like learning and improving hopefully, on the finer details of the basics Cheers Edited November 1, 2021 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 When Ive weakened the twin Strombergs too much its on steady throttle cruising Ive noticed hesitation not acceleration. Pinking can also occur especially if you have air leaks and I think this is more likely to give high combustion temperature and damage as it can go undetected... Also my Vitesse wont start without some choke what ever the air temperature! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 4 minutes ago, johny said: Also my Vitesse wont start without some choke what ever the air temperature! That's as it should be. The highest ambient temperature you're going to see in the UK is around 40 degrees. The lowest "properly warm" temperature for the engine is about 60 degrees. So on an ambient temperature start you should always need some choke. The only time my Vitesse doesn't is when it's been parked facing south all day in the summer- it's a dark green so sitting in bright sunlight raises the under-bonnet temperature noticeably above ambient. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 any carb running on choke will produce sooty plugs it gets worse if when on choke you have insufficient fast idle its a balancing act to aid cold starting rich mixtures and not fouling up plugs to give poor running after choke use and the choke is there to be used on a cool /cold engine Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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