Jump to content

Flywheel tooth wear


TRevver

Recommended Posts

When fitting new clutch, I noticed wear to the flywheel teeth on the gearbox side. Just wondered if this is most likely caused by the old Lucas starter motor or newer (high torque) unit? I know they have different means of operating and engaging the flywheel..?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to detract from any of the above good advice but to actually answer the question...

Any wear or damage to the gearbox side of the teeth is caused by a Bendix (original "inertia" type) starter, which "pulls in" to engage while already beginning to spin. High torque are all "pre-engaged" types, which "push out" to engage before spinning up, so they would wear or damage the engine side.

Since the gears are, as JohnD points out, bevelled to aid engagement, you should, strictly speaking, turn the ring gear over when you change from Bendix to pre-engaged.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the disassembly tips. Just wondered what was causing the wear. Thought it most likely the "pull in" from the gearbox side from the original starter as Rob suggested but didn't realise it started life with bevelled gears so maybe it wasn't as worn as I thought! Great stuff! Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  Robs right  the old bendix fly in attacks the teeth on entry and the  rear facing flywheel side teeth have or had a chamfer  the front side with be plain 

with a pre engaged  starter the pinion flies  in from the front so it attacks the un chamfered side of the gear this doesnt matter as in general all pre engage have a trick

in the solenoid indexes the pinion 1/2 a tooth every time its fired so having a chamfered lead in is not critical it will always self mesh before it powers up 

so using a high torque (geared) pre engage on a old bendix worn ring gear wont matter a jot 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very informative and useful info. Thanks. Btw, I found the powerlite unit fits better with the captive bolt at the bottom (rather than the other way around, you can’t get a socket or even a spanner on the locking nut with it at the top - at least on my Vitesse due to interference with the bell housing).  The people at powerlite were very helpful and will even re-machine the mounting plate  for no charge if it otherwise won’t fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe it’s down to batch run of the bell housing? Mine has a seam right next to the top hole for the starter motor-there’s enough room for the original bolt, but a nyloc nut to fit on the captive bolt is right up against the seem so you can’t get a socket on it and only about a 1/16th of a turn with a spanner. It’s fine if I tip the starter upside down as the free bolt can go through the same hole to be held by a spanner whilst doing the nut up from the engine side. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...