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PPJ 482L 2.5 PI


European Voyager

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Mot  results  tell some recent work was hopefully completed  as in 2016 it had some serious fails  only 4  miles  before it got a pass 

and shows as MOT Expired    so make sure its registered as Historic and MOT exempt    or get it MOT for peace of mind 

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

Pete

  • Nearside rear brake binding (3.7.B.1)
  • Steering component is not secure to the vehicle structure steering column loose (2.2.B.1a)
  • Nearside Headlamp aim too low (1.8)
  • Offside Headlamp aim too low (1.8)
  • Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid (8.2.3)
  • Nearside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.2.C.1c)
  • Offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.2.C.1c)
  • Offside Rear wheel bearing has excessive play (2.6.2)
  • Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is inadequately repaired chassis leg /tack welded (2.4.A.3)
  • Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is inadequately repaired chassis leg /tack welded (2.4.A.3)

Advisory notice item(s)

  • Nearside Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
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the rear brakes have a lockheed adjuster bar witha ratchet and cable lever I used stag ones the shoe spreader is the same but the HB lever is 15mm longer so you get a far better handbrake 

and stag ones are far more available and much cheaper 

have a photo somewhere   will look it out  

these adjusters were used on many other cars of the era  its quite often the HB lever pivot is seized 

always get the shoes to self expand fully before you connect /adjust the cables 

Pete

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  • 2 months later...

HI Pete just caught this sorry about the late reply but thanks . Ive stripped out the dash as it was split and found the wiring has all been messed about with so Im sorting that out just now . Im thinking about taking the engine out as it is running hot , I think it has been sitting for a while with just water in it as the water pump is all rusted and pitted up and think that this could be why the heater is poor if it is all silted up . 

 

Cheers 

EV

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runs actually hot or just the gauge reads hotter than it really is  first stop is the gauge voltage stabiliser and change the thermostat 

a failed one reads hot coolant and over reading fuel  levels  

always do the simple first not strip the engine down for a  duff  needle reading 

pete

 

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HI Thanks for that , Ive been over the simple things and flushed out the engine and hoses but it not clear so I think it needs doing , I put a cleaner through it as well but it didnt do much. It heats up quick and the heater is warm , I checked the thermostat temp and changed it . I want to tow my caravan with it so Id like to know the engine is a good basis , Besides it will help me pass the time .

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11 hours ago, European Voyager said:

Ive been over the simple things and flushed out the engine and hoses but it not clear so I think it needs doing , I put a cleaner through it as well but it didnt do much. It heats up quick and the heater is warm

Right, OK, but have you established that it's not just misreading? High reading on the gauge is so common due to electrical issues (failed stabiliser, wrong sender, etc) that you should not even think about flushing until you've established that the real temperature is actually getting too high. The best indication of that is boiling - if it doesn't boil it's probably fine.

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I have tried the belt , it's got a new temp sender and I don't think it's the voltage stabiliser as the fuel gauge is reading true and the temp and fuel don't run high when the engine is reved up which has happened on other classics I've owned. I wonder if the water isn't flowing right due to cavitation it's also hard to fill with water as I need to take the top hose off and fill it .the thermostat has a giggle pin fitted too

20211112_153146.jpg

20211112_153151.jpg

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EV,

The original voltage stabiliser pulses the 12 volts down to 10.5 volts, despite the fact that it's pulsing a multimeter should see around 10.5 volts on one side of both gauges. If you see 12 volts, you've got an ex-voltage stabiliser! Modern solid state VS's put out constant 10 to 10.5. 

Doug

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2 hours ago, European Voyager said:

HI , ok try Jiggle pin , 😁. Ive had a stag for over 30 years and was once caught out with a thermostat that didnt have the wee bleed pin on it . Your message was appreciated as Im having to isolate and its a sense of normality

 

EV

My current Herald thermostat doesn't; now I won't be happy until I've changed it...

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Just back in from the garage; I had six thermostats, four new and two used, and none had a jiggle pin. Eventually I refitted a quite nice but used brass 88 degree version with a pin; main reason being the system is fully reconditioned and just completed, with the coolant only being added this afternoon. It'll be one less thing to worry about until I can get the engine to full heat and am sure all airlocks are gone.

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if there is no jiggle pin a 3mm drilled hole in the rim will aid air escape on refilling and wont upset the stat operation 

fitting a 88c means you can lean it off a bit more 82c is the std for UK 

i would not advis upping the temp on a fixed jet downdraft as you can only   change the  idle mixture not the running mixture 

1500 used an  88c as emissions raised the temp to weaken the mixture 

Pete

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