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Going to look at this. Any advice?


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looks tidy enough  , seats are sad gear lever gaitor looks tired 

KN filters may give poor idling in hot conditions as there is no cold air under the bonnet 

seat foams and covers   are expansive to buy  easy enough to fit with some strong Tea !!

as its a 2.5  and 14 " wheel has the foundation braking been upgraded  not just add a servo ???

ie better calipers /pads  etc  just a thought 

Pete

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11 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

looks tidy enough  , seats are sad gear lever gaitor looks tired 

KN filters may give poor idling in hot conditions as there is no cold air under the bonnet 

seat foams and covers   are expansive to buy  easy enough to fit with some strong Tea !!

as its a 2.5  and 14 " wheel has the foundation braking been upgraded  not just add a servo ???

ie better calipers /pads  etc  just a thought 

Pete

My thoughts too, budgeted 2-3 hundred for seats and gaitor . I didn't know about the k&ns though. Thanks 

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10 minutes ago, Paul H said:

MOT search shows significant rust issues . Would suggest finding out who did the work and a ramp inspection to check the quality of the repairs.

Paul 

I noticed that on previous mot's, screwdriver and magnet at the ready! Where are the main areas to check apart from spring hangers, outriggers and seatbelt points? Thanks. 

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That is not a great example. bottom of drivers door appears wobbly (rusted/filled?) and possibly a big rust blister on the rear wing just behind the door? Dents in both sides. Rear trim panels gaffa taped. 

I reckon you could spend up 1K on the interior if you fully rebuild the seats, stuff is not cheap.

But my concern is the rust aspect. Be VERY careful. Take a small ponty hammer and bang the underside if the chassis, especially around the diff. It has probably been welded in that area, but it is easy to bodge for an MoT, harder to do well. Underside of outriggers, body mount areas ie under the door hinges. 

I think you can find rather better for not a lot, if any more.

If it is a 2.5, the std brakes are fine as long as you use quality pads (mintex 1144, ds2500 or in my case NoS Girling asbestos)

Sorry to be negative, but that looks like a car with a fair bit of filler. But useful to see if not too far, you should find all the problem areas.

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didnt realise you could magnify  so Plus tight  bonnet to door gaps  and bonnet height to front valence 

agree door skins are looking filled 

mind you i did mine small holes with marine epoxy and that lasted 5 years without failing 

so not so tidy  just bright red   Hmmm  

Pete

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55 minutes ago, clive said:

my concern is the rust aspect. Be VERY careful. Take a small ponty hammer and bang the underside if the chassis, especially around the diff. It has probably been welded in that area, but it is easy to bodge for an MoT, harder to do well. Underside of outriggers, body mount areas ie under the door hinges. 

Pointy hammer would very much upset the owner of a genuine car :wacko:  don't ever do that to one of mine.!  ..and it's not a solution to the modern way of fudging things, as I found out to my cost..  The sills on my Chrysler had been 'professionally' repaired (read 'patched over'), but come the MOT were found to have been just-very-occasionally been tacked in place and then seam sealer goo'ed along the seams ..for the most part.  A magnet would have still clicked onto steel.  Seam sealer seems to be the modern day equivalent to hiding c%%p under underseal.   Sadly, I suspect some of that's recently happened on my Triumph too.  In short, structural welding is now continuous, so if the panel joins do not appear welded then look carefully.

Pete  

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Btw., the inside arches of the bonnet are different colours.  One's black, the other looks whitish over red-oxide, on a red car.  So something there has been replaced. Looks as if the bonnet comes off a white car, which could have been due to rust ..but still it's worth checking the front end, chassis and front suspension for accident damage.

Pete

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9 minutes ago, Bfg said:

 

Pointy hammer would very much upset the owner of a genuine car :wacko: 

I doubt that car has a very genuine chassis. And I have seen plenty of herald/vitesse chassis that are paper thin in places, a serious jab with a screwdriver goes through.

11 minutes ago, Russ Rockett said:

Well spotted, all good to haggle with.

A £5 bit of hose isn't worth a haggle, but I honestly doubt it will get anywhere near that stage. Remember bodywork is expensive. 

 

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On 21/10/2021 at 16:48, Russ Rockett said:

Hi.

I'm looking at this on Monday, my first one. Any advice welcome. 

http://www.pioneer-automobiles.co.uk/Triumph_Vitesse_Convertible_di.html

Thanks.

Russ 

Thanks for the very quick and informative replies. It looks like it's going to be an interesting viewing and a good learning experience. 

On 21/10/2021 at 17:39, Gully said:

To add to the list -  a rather grotty piece of R6 fuel hose to the rear

 

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I saw this on Saturday.  It's ride was rock solid and really horrible, colour change from white to red with filler in doors, engine gearbox and brakes seemed okay, but I only drove it a couple of miles. Definitely not for me, I was expecting softer suspension. 

Thanks for the advice given, it was really useful. 

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On 21/10/2021 at 18:31, Bfg said:

Btw., the inside arches of the bonnet are different colours.  One's black, the other looks whitish over red-oxide, on a red car.  So something there has been replaced. Looks as if the bonnet comes off a white car, which could have been due to rust ..but still it's worth checking the front end, chassis and front suspension for accident damage.

Pete

Well spoken. It was originally a white car, recently sprayed red. 

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Nice ! and an amazingly low price if the car is as good as the advert implies. 

..obviously a very different driving experience from the Vitesse but hopefully it'll be a joy to the new owner B)

Well done Russ.

Pete

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