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Triumph Gt6 mk3 - 2nd and 3rd gear noises


Joanna K
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just to say  thats reverse it can go on a long time in that worn chipped condition as reverse is a pretty slow little used gear compared to others( its obviously not at its best ) 

it has no effect on  noises in 2nd /3rd thats more likey layshaft bearings and mainshaft tip wear 

are there any synchro problems  ??

 

places like moss list just the sleeve + 33tooth  £106 

you must count your teeth there are various  counts out there 

Pete

 

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If replacing the bearings, recommend if any wear, make sure you get good quality ones. The two main bearings either end of my gearbox cost me about 100 pounds after alot of searching. One place quoted me 180 pounds for two. The cheap ones are reported as not lasting long , with dire consequences. 

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Not to panic. Is your gearbox overdrive or non overdrive? As the mainshafts are different. I believe i have the idle gear as well. The tip can be machined and an oversize roller bearing used if replacement not an option, I'm sure i will be corrected if not. I have the spitfire parts book but not the gt6 one at the moment so can't compare parts.

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as thats  its looking like at some time in life its had a low oil level , which started this off  both this and the mainshaft tip are common weak points after all these years 

and rely on good lubrication 

its worth looking inside the cluster as the needles can transmit that wear problem  to the cluster bore  surface a zone often overlooked 

as for synchro it relies heavily on the chamfered teeth angles of around 55deg on the dog teeth of the gear the sleeve and the baulkring to baulk the change 

whith 1/2 tooth rock over before the gears sync speed and engagement is continued without clashing 

heres a Rootes explaination  needs colouring in but it says how the clutch is spun up to speeds in the blink of an eye when you yank the gear stick 

 

 

syncho and howi1.jpg

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19 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

as thats  its looking like at some time in life its had a low oil level , which started this off  both this and the mainshaft tip are common weak points after all these years 

and rely on good lubrication 

its worth looking inside the cluster as the needles can transmit that wear problem  to the cluster bore  surface a zone often overlooked 

as for synchro it relies heavily on the chamfered teeth angles of around 55deg on the dog teeth of the gear the sleeve and the baulkring to baulk the change 

whith 1/2 tooth rock over before the gears sync speed and engagement is continued without clashing 

heres a Rootes explaination  needs colouring in but it says how the clutch is spun up to speeds in the blink of an eye when you yank the gear stick 

 

 

syncho and howi1.jpg

Thank you Pete, Very helpful 

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6 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

its worth looking inside the cluster as the needles can transmit that wear problem  to the cluster bore  surface a zone often overlooked 

My cluster was mullered, though ok enough, for it to be machined and a sleeve fitted. Mike Papworth did this along with other work on my G.B  

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5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

do you have a dummy spindle made to aid reassembly of the cluster needles and  the new spindle ???

if not cut the old one down to the length of the cluster and keep it for future use 

Pete

I took the old one with a circular temporary piece of wood, but I will reuse the old layshaft for dummy spindle

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Yes, it is now a full rebuild. 
just trying to make it quieter. I purchased the gearbox kit from Canleys to start with, but my needy yet beautiful car demands more bits.

also a refurbished propshaft is on its way

i like the story about the hose! 

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when it comes to rebuild let us know  lots ways to do it in the shed nothing special is needed  at all 

a good mallet and punch and a plastic bag to put the hubs in so you can strip the sleeves and catch the escaping balls and springs 

and how to up end the re assy so the collet thrusts between 2nd dont keep falling out   its simpluze     just ask 

always use a new 3rd gear circlip  , get a few spares if it gets spread when fitting  bin and do again you dont want one to pop off 

Pete

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Wow looks like you caught it just in time as if a needle bearing fails completely major damage can follow.

Hope your laygear bearing surfaces are good as its not easy to repair these or the mainshaft tip. The latter is difficult because as Mathew says it can be sleeved but that means machining the tip even smaller which makes it more prone to snapping off. Somebody on here recently bought a new mainshaft from Bastuck in Germany (they may also supply UK stockists) and had some big problems with it...

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Thank you guys for your support. The whole process is rather interesting but really enjoying it (not money spending part). I contacted a local specialist engineering guy to see if he could repair the mainshaft, if not I will probably get one from Rimmers

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