Winter Heat Required

[Chris A]

39 minutes ago, Colin said:

when that flap is shut, all the air goes to (or blown by the fan) the screen vents? 

Is that correct?

 

40 minutes ago, Colin said:

So actually, if I'm missing one or both the 'closing' seals on that lower flap, the heater air will leak into the cabin and there will be less to go to the screen vents??

Yes to both.

When I checked over my system I found splits in the plastic hoses that duct the air from the distribution box to windscreen outlets.

The system, when in good condition, is capable of warming my feet and face/ hands in my convertible with the hood down on cold(ish) days.

[Colin]

Wow Chris. That sounds awesome. I don't think the tubes are split. I electric tied the top of one to thd steel vent the other day . .  

So I'm going try to sort the seals and cable control out. 

In theory in a saloon the heater should really be able to do its job. 

For me, after this, I can only think the matrix is probably bunged up. 

I may try the soda crystal method next. 

Possibly buy a scrappy matrix; stŕip it; see how it works etc, then see if anyone will rebuild its core etc..

Best to All.

C.

[Clive]

The heater valves can play up, and despite appearing to open, the water flow can be very low. So check the pipes in and out of the heater.

If the matric is properly blocked, more flushing won't help as water won't flow through the blocked tubes. Best bet is a new matrix.

http://www.demisterman.co.uk/Triumph/Triumph Herald heater matrix.php

[Chris A]

38 minutes ago, Colin said:

Wow Chris. That sounds awesome.

It is also a question of what you are used to. I grew up with this type of car, in fact took my test in 1970 in ax13/60 so no power assisted steering or brakes was the norm as was heaters often being an optional extra - heated rear windows? What are they 🤔

If you read the owners manual there is a section headed 'air conditioning' 😃

[PeteH]

5 minutes ago, Chris A said:

If you read the owners manual there is a section headed 'air conditioning' 😃

Something to do with the two strange triangular windows in both doors?.😁 A Bit like one car I had Air-Con AND a sliding/tilting steel sunroof!. what`s that all about?.

 

Pete

[Chris A]

12 minutes ago, PeteH said:

Something to do with the two strange triangular windows in both doors?.😁

Much more complex than just that : combination of hot or cold air or mixed, directed up or down, quarter lights open or closed. None of the 'just press a button stuff😃

[Colin]

Agree with everything said - there was an awful lot of window        cloth-wiping and freezing with every window full open just in order to be able to see where to drive in its last full every day outings! 

How can I tell if the valve needs replacing? I did hose flush it through as much as I could . . . 

Best,

C.

[Chris A]

36 minutes ago, Colin said:

How can I tell if the valve needs replacing? I did hose flush it through as much as I could . . . 

 

When you flushed the heater, in both directions, I assume you got water passing through which means the matrix is at least partly clear. Did you do it with the valve in place? If so it ought to mean the valve works. You could try using a hose on the valve detached from the heater.

[Peter Truman]

Oh Chris you want a laugh, when he finds the valve shut/restricted and the water jet blows backwards all over him!! How do I know?

[Clive]

1 hour ago, Colin said:

Agree with everything said - there was an awful lot of window        cloth-wiping and freezing with every window full open just in order to be able to see where to drive in its last full every day outings! 

How can I tell if the valve needs replacing? I did hose flush it through as much as I could . . . 

Best,

C.

I am wondering if you can remove the valve and run without one, that would prove the point. 

[Chris A]

19 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

Oh Chris you want a laugh, when he finds the valve shut/restricted and the water jet blows backwards all over him!! How do I know?

You've spoilt the surprise 🤫. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

[Chris A]

6 minutes ago, clive said:

I am wondering if you can remove the valve and run without one, that would prove the point. 

Without looking at either the car or a parts diagram I can't remember if it is easily possible to connect the hoses without one in the circuit. A look see would confirm it. Good luck

[Pete Lewis]

the rotating paddle flaap thingy  has three basic positons which direct the air flow 

shut   feet   screen    if halfway between either it will do its best to split the flow 

its only 2 nuts and the cable clamp to remove the thing  and it is a very crude device 

which relies on sticky tape felt and degraded sponge foam 

repair is simple .

if you can fit the hoeses direct to the heater matrix stubs you can bypass the valve ok 

the tube under the manifold and its  adaptor into the back of the pump can block up 

really needs removal and given a clean out   the adaptor into the pump can block completely 

Pete

[Colin]

13 hours ago, Chris A said:

When you flushed the heater, in both directions, I assume you got water passing through which means the matrix is at least partly clear. Did you do it with the valve in place? If so it ought to mean the valve works. You could try using a hose on the valve detached from the heater.

Hi. Yes, I flushed with the valve in open position and flushed from all directions. Plenty of flow through and out of the box. Very brown and yuck to begin with but carried on till clear. The under manifold pipe - would that not be subject to exposure from the prop. rad. flush? 

 

[Colin]

53 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

the rotating paddle flaap thingy  has three basic positons which direct the air flow 

shut   feet   screen    if halfway between either it will do its best to split the flow 

its only 2 nuts and the cable clamp to remove the thing  and it is a very crude device 

which relies on sticky tape felt and degraded sponge foam 

repair is simple .

if you can fit the hoeses direct to the heater matrix stubs you can bypass the valve ok 

the tube under the manifold and its  adaptor into the back of the pump can block up 

really needs removal and given a clean out   the adaptor into the pump can block completely 

Pete

Pete:- Would have thought flap shut would eliminate hot air passage into cabin and concentrated flow to dash vents? Pulling knob partially out I can understand woukd split flow between dash vents/cabin - or fully - out would surely concentrate flow into cabin . . . ??🤔

Shan't be able to get to it until next week now, sadly . . . 

Best All.

C.

[Chris A]

10 minutes ago, Colin said:

The under manifold pipe - would that not be subject to exposure from the prop. rad. flush? 

Yes, but to make sure it is clear a prod through with stiff wire or similar helps clear it as well.

[Chris A]

Extracts from my 13/60 owners handbook, may be of interest/help

 

[Pete Lewis]

thats a lot of IN   and OUT   going on 

when its out you can hang your handbag on it  

Pete

 

 

[Chris A]

53 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

thats a lot of IN   and OUT   going on 

when its out you can hang your handbag on it  

Pete

 

 

Wrong site, Pete

[Colin]

Thanks for the In-Out shake it all about info! 

Too many permutations really! 

I'll see what I can do putting the felt back on the heater flap, make sure the flap/vent cable is operating properly and I may even silver insulation tape round the heater-to cabin-foam; try and minimise transient heat loss. 😉

[Pete Lewis]

3 hours ago, Chris A said:

Wrong site, Pete

i didnt want  to upset Dougs commission 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

i didnt want  to upset Dougs commission

Too right! 0.002p per login doesn't go far. 

db

[Colin]

Hi Gents:- 

I'll describe that I took the dash vent finishers off for the renovator to have a clear run at re-rubbering the front screen, minimising his required effort. Probably a mistake as when I recently repossessed it, the wires I'd looped so that I could re-align the steel vents and place the screws in easily had been 'lost'. Much angst, scraped knuckles and delicacy were involved to manoeuvre, in particular, the one behind the glove box!

That said, and having now gone through the flush exercise (not with soda crystals - sorry Pete L), I reported back that the carpet at the lower heater directional flap point seemed to get toasty enough!

In amongst the helpful comments about upgrading blower and DG valve checks, I mentioned that I was having control cable issues - so I'll now elaborate on that and visually show what I have. 

Firstly - most recently, if I pushed the control in (as I understand it this directs blow to the vent tubes feeding the dash vents for de-misting purposes), the last motion saw the outer sheath moving. So, I've tightened that up and it happens no longer. I also described that I once snapped the inner wire fixing screw off - and have used electrical 'choc' blocks to affix its pivot point (works well enough).

However (and as far as I can recall this has always been the case - hence dash varnish crazing) - and I show the three main positions available to the control in the pic), to pull the vent flap completely as far back as it can be (which would mean maximum cabin heat, right?), the action is EXTREMELY stiff - and is pretty much the same in the opposite direction when closing. Hence you can see the cracking of the old dash varnish/lacquer - the motion required flexes the dash at that point.

I should explain that I have as far as possible oiled/WD40'd down the cable, the vent flap pivot points both sides and it still remains as stubborn.

Can anyone think of an explanation/suffer from this phenomenon themselves/think of a solution??

I took a short run yesterday and plenty of really old dust from where I've been agitating things blew out of the passenger side dash vent mainly - not so much driver's side. Also, passenger side seemed to blow warmer than the driver's side - and as far as Chris A's (I think it was) comment saying his heater keeps him warm even in his soft top - well, I couldn't be more jealous . . . !! 🙂

Looking forward to everyone's input as usual . . .

Best,

C.

PS Apologies first under-dash photo a bit blurred.

 

[Pete Lewis]

I  would disconnect the inner and pull it right out  add some grease and refit

same applies to choke and heat valve cables  

these are not delrin   lined  or plastic sleeved  and the piano wire gets very rusty so a good shine up and grease can transform its ease of operation 

especially ones that run through the heater plenum and get rained on 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

I  would disconnect the inner and pull it right out  add some grease and refit

same applies to choke and heat valve cables  

If you have the cable disconnected, you can manually move the air direction flap - this will let you know where the problem lies ie if it moves freely, then it's the cable.